Another charging system thread 82 gs850gl

[chanceafrica]

I wasnt being sarcastic. I see that its black or darker in color but the color is consistent throughout the unit. Not evident of burnt spots or areas. If my whole stator was “cajun fried” i wouldnt assume it would be working as well as it was. But you are suggesting that this looks damaged. What should i replace this with? An oem suzuki part or is there a better quality aftermarket.

[chanceafrica]

Im looking at used stators on ebay for a comparison and they all apear black like this. That may be the genuine suzuki insulation vs an aftermarket?

[chanceafrica]

Yeah so the oem suzuki part has a white coating around the coils that i assume turn black from the oil.

[jsandidge]

It turns black from heat, just like toast.

[Steve]

Ive determined i am in denial about having to replace my stator. Im looking online they are 30-40$ at their cheapest. That seems crazy low. What is the suggested replacement stator?

I found an ElectroSport Stator on Amazon for cheaper than I could buy it from Electrosport.

Two of our bikes (both of the 850s) had Caltric stators in them, not sure about the 1000. I purchased new Electrosport stators to put in all three bikes just before our "Little Ride" this past summer, just so we would start fresh. The install on the 1000 went well and seemed to improve electrical performance. Moved to my 850, found the ES stator was thinner than the Caltric. Had to get shorter screws to mount it. Electrical performance is not quite as good, it takes more engine RPM before it gets to 14+ volts. Based on that, I did not change the stator on my wife's bike, but we took the new stator along as a spare.

I will be going into my engine for other reasons this winter, I will be getting another Caltric to replace the ES.

.

[Gorminrider]

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?253779-Another-charging-system-thread-82-gs850gl&p=2520372#post2520372

In fact, in this case, these "worthless numbers" are a strong indication that there is nothing wrong with the stator but instead it is the connections are at fault.

well , then, why all this about the stator? I'm still left guessing it's the radio,without some other info.

I dont see any obvious damge to this

-appearances can be deceiving but it Looks ok from what I can see. Suzukis pour oil out at the shaft so this just looks like typical staining to me-their varnish was just typical winding varnish I think. Not many electric motors spin in oil so it's hard to compare to a typical winding.

[posplayr]

https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...72#post2520372
well , then, why all this about the stator? I'm still left guessing it's the radio,without some other info.

-appearances can be deceiving but it Looks ok from what I can see. Suzukis pour oil out at the shaft so this just looks like typical staining to me-their varnish was just typical winding varnish I think. Not many electric motors spin in oil so it's hard to compare to a typical winding.

Can't say I know what is absolutely what is wrong here. It could be a combination of not just one thing.
OP said that ".......did all the measurements and everything is fine" Clclearly this is not the case and without actual numerical values it is just conjecture and guessing which I'm not going to waste my time doing.

I only just yesterday noticed the full set of 6 reading from the Quick test.
I don't recall any other reading for a say voltage drop of leg-to-Leg or Leg-to-Ground testing.

I did see that I had posted a few weeks ago to look at the stator and if it was fried replace both R/R and stator.

So If at this point the OP doesn't want to do that, he can enjoy his hobby on his own terms.

This thread started on Oct 23, 2018!!!

Happy New Year 2019.

[chanceafrica]

i replaced the stator with the one reccomended the caltric i believe. i was alarmed by how they had the tail whip attatched to the stator. it was with an x of zipties around one of the coils. i didnt believe they intended you to run that like that, so i took it off and reffered to my old stator for its stress relief mechanism. the loom is relieved from stress by a cable strap which is threaded into the stator core. the caltric stator has a threaded hole where this should go but is a very abnormal size no bolts i had would thread into it. the diameter was off. and i have alot of hardware at my disposal. so i just installed it without any stress relief and assumed the wire routing in the case would keep that loom from withering about.

OK SO ANYWAYS i installed this unit, i didnt have replacement oil but wanted to check the system anyway so i fired it for a few seconds, and it is still off. it is different from the other stator but still not right. if my results were exactly the same as with the old stator, i'd know it was in the wiring or reg/rectifier(i tested the reg/rectifier). but its different, so its a combo of the old stator going out and an issue in my wiring. it seemed to sit at 12.5 and climb to 13.5. im gonna put some oil in it today and give it another go. but im still not sure what to go for here.

[Gorminrider]

You could try pulling fuses and see if that helps up the voltage...everything except ignition (orange/White wire 10A) and the Master (red wire 15A) . and be sure to disconnect your radio !
I don't know if your regulator has a "sense" wire, but if so, connect it to the RED or the battery directly .

Read the voltage AT THE BATTERY.

[chanceafrica]

I did find a voltage drop i think . I tested the positive battery terminal and back probed the red lead to the harness which is going to the ignition switch i think. I had .2v drop at idle and .7 or so at 4/5k rpms. But just starting my bike 2 or 3 times drained my battery so im gonna charge it over night and try again tomorrow. I took the red lead straight to the positive terminal with an inline fuse. With minimal voltage drop .02 or something like that

[chanceafrica]

So after a night of being on the tender i rechecked the charging and it seems to be working. Sits a little low at idle 12.5 ish but increases to 14.5 where it should. Can i leave my regulator hooked up straight to the battery or is it gonna draw? I imagine it runs through the switch for a reason. Id rather leave this simplified wiring because chasing a bad connection or wire theough the loom sounds like it could be a headache and also if there was an issue later it would be more easily troubleshooted .

[chanceafrica]

811A4209-5D86-486E-A9AD-763BD61E62BD.jpg This is my wiring for testing. Can i run it like this or does it have to run theough the switch

[Steve]

If your regulator output runs through a switch, it's because somebody has cobbled it together that way.

In the stock wiring, the output of the regulator connects to the main harness between the MAIN fuse and the ignition switch. The battery is on the other side of the MAIN fuse, so the output of the R/R is essentially always connected directly to the battery.

.

[chanceafrica]

i mentioned the ig switch because thats what i saw on the wiring diagram. so your saying it is fine to run it this way

[Gorminrider]

What diagram are you looking at that shows the regulator "output" connected to the "ignition switch" ie: the key switch...?

and, I can't see much from your picture. Make it bigger and better...

Simply, on a regulator that has 4 wires coming out of it, it's as Steve says. ... The + "output" from the regulator goes to the battery ...It should make no difference to charging voltage if it's attached directly to the battery or to the main RED wire coming off the battery "past" the main fuse . If it does, SUSPECT the main fuseand connections to it...
correctly wired, it will not drain the battery unless there's something wrong with the regulator...

However, IF there is a fifth wire on your regulator, it is a "sense" wire that controls the output and it is attached to a circuit that is on/off by the key. If you have a 5th wire, You need to know what wire is what or show a decent picture of your regulator because these don't all have the same coloured wires coming out of them...