Charging is Perfect - with only 2 poles from the stator connected

[londonboards]

How many charging issues can there be?

GS1100G with new battery, new stator and at least 3 extra earth loops from battery holder and rectifier to battery negative. All combinations of stator output are in the 70-90 volts A/C range, depending on rpm.

I've tried 3 rectifiers and they all give me the same results:

Idling: 14.5 - 14.8 volts
5,000 rpm: Up to 16.4 volts

BUT if I disconnect one of the stator outputs from the rectifier, so the charging system is only running on 2 poles, I get perfect results as per the stator Quick Test.

What am I doing wrong?

Can I run the bike safely (not burning out the stator) on only 2 poles?

[fastbysuzuki]

As you all ready know 16.4v is too high, stator voltage lookes good what rectifiers are you testing with are they all shunt and are they all Oem ?
You say you have earths to battery box have you earthed the battery box to the frame as it's rubber mounted and has a poor earth system.
I would try to use the single point grounding system bringing all the earths including the rectifier to a point on battery box + an earth from that point to a good frame earth to see if that makes a difference.
Although high charging can surely only be down the the rectifier I would have thought.

[Gorminrider]

sure. two poles will do it. simple-A two-phase generator....ONE phase can work on some bikes but not on our bikes-ours have wye-wound stators that rely on two coils in series to create voltage at the expense of current...

Anyways, You will remember the old "lightswitch loop" that is a big topic here...suzuki figured that with one phase out of the equation and the headlight's load removed, 2 was plenty. AND they therefore only regulated that one phase... with the original regulator (on my gsx400s anyways...I'm not sure about the 650s original) when the headlight was on.


.....SOME say that the B1tch of the original design was that just 2 phase output is "unbalanced". Electrosport says this I think. I am unsure of what they mean as to the effect...2 phase versus 3....ie: back-emf against the bearings and spin resistance? I dunno. I don't see the issue because Hondas havedifferent sorts of stator +ignition setups under their rotors...including single phase through a simple rectifier on the older bikes.

[londonboards]

I'm testing with 3 different and new Sindengen OEM style rectifiers that all test good when testing the diodes.

Yes all my earths, including from the battery box, end up on the solenoid plate, except for the engine earth direct to battery terminal.

Yes, high charging has to be the rectifier. I just can't believe all 3 new ones behave in exactly the same way.

Weird.

[Nessism]

What bike? The only GS's that use a stand alone rectifier are the old pre 1980 bikes. Is there a reason you don't move to a combined R/R? I'd be inclined to go in that direction, and needless to say, bypass the charging system wiring other than the power return going back to the battery.

[londonboards]

Yes, that's very interesting. The third phase only came on if the headlamp was running and the battery would still charge with only 2 phases if the headlamp was turned off. That makes total sense.

The emf thing makes sense too.

Take a look at this video. Voltage fluctuates according to which pole I disconnect and most interestingly, if I switch headlight on and off with one pole disconnected there is no change EXCEPT if I disconnect pole no. 1 and turn the headlamp on, the voltage goes back up to 14.6. This has got to be something to do with the headlamp wiring loop.:

[londonboards]

GS1100G.

Yes, these are all regulator/rectifiers. One unit.

I'm thinking someone has messed with the headlamp loop.

[salty_monk]

The headlamp loop only works on one pole so that makes sense. 14.6 at Idle isn't necessarily an issue, the Electrosport ones do that but the higher voltage at 5k is.

I would cut out the headlamp loop. It's easy to do. You can do it under the tank, the bullets will fit (and you can just tie the now disconnected loop back out of the way.

Check out all the other wiring with charging on a direct path to battery.

Make sure your RR doesn't have a "sense wire" and if it does make sure it goes to battery as well.

Use a "known good" RR...

[fastbysuzuki]

A thought occurred to me could be right or wrong given you have tested three regulators and get the same reading have you tried a different multimeter?
when you have taken the readings at 70-90 vac a two volt discrepancy is neither here or there but at 12-16v the overreading discrepancy would be obvious.
just a thought.

[Gorminrider]

I can't see the video very well. Might be my fault but I just can't comment on it is all.
What is the model number of the Shindegnen R/Rs...?
yes DO entirely get rid of the loop. I have a really cool explanation that I made up about "why" but I'll spare you beyond saying it "extends" the leg it is attached to. It is about 10% of the length of the winding on the stator itself..