GS1100EX Regulator/Rectifier

[bonanzadave]

Grounds are important. Is the SH775AA mounted to a plastic fender ?

the casing of the R/R is normally the negative lead to the frame.

Just something I read.......Try jumping the case of the RR to ground. Just checkin.....

[posplayr]

the casing of the R/R is normally the negative lead to the frame.

Just something I read.......Try jumping the case of the RR to ground.

On the SH-775 the case is isolated from groudn return (i.e. R/R(-) )

In the case of the Compu Fire , the case is the ground return R/R(-)

[Sparkie]

You can neither just replace the stator or try to get some confirmation first from the leg to ground tests. They shoudl report ZERO VAC.
You will also probably find a burned stator.

Sorry but what's mean exactly "leg to ground" ... ¿The positive voltmeter lead in one of the stator leads and the negative voltmeter lead in the bike`s frame?

[posplayr]

Sorry but what's mean exactly "leg to ground" ... ¿The positive voltmeter lead in one of the stator leads and the negative voltmeter lead in the bike`s frame?

GND = Engine case or Frame

[Sparkie]

By far the most productive test is leg ground not leg leg.

Yes posplayr!! You have the reason. I just make the stator test leg to ground, and only one lead give me Zero VAC. The other two give differents values (like crazy). Definitely I have to buy a new stator.

[posplayr]

Yes posplayr!! You have the reason. I just make the stator test leg to ground, and only one lead give me Zero VAC. The other two give differents values (like crazy). Definitely I have to buy a new stator.

This might clear up what is going on with the stator testsing and why it can be seemingly inconclusive.

Reading just this limited amount of information, there should be ample information to conclude that the testing of a stator amounts to the testing of the insulation. Insulation tests can not be done conclusively with a low voltage ohm meter (like measuring sub ohm resistance with a 9V battery).

Standard engineering insulation tests that have been developed are based on much higher voltage breakdown. Unless there is a high voltage consistent with the expected operational range of use, then any positive test results will be inconclusive

So when I say a conventional stator test (non - MEGGER) can only unambiguously proves a fault, it is because it those tests do not fully test the stator to the level required in operational use, then concluding that the stator will pass in operational use leaves a large gap in performance and therefore an apparent ambiguity in the results.

The stator test is only valid is it fails, as if it fails at a low level you can be assured it will fail at a higher level. I can state this in the following RULES for testing stators.

This brings us to the following LAWS for Stator testing (i.e. those related to Phase B of the stator pages)


FIRST LAW OF STATOR TESTS:
ANY POSITIVE RESULT of a STATOR TEST HAS AN AMBIGUITY PROPORTIONAL TO THE UNTESTED OPERATIONAL STRESS.

SECOND LAW OF STATOR TESTS:
ANY NEGATIVE RESULT of a STATOR TEST IS A NECESSARY AND SUFFICIENT CONDITION TO DECLARE A STATOR BAD.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?223164-FIRST-and-SECOND-LAW-of-Stator-testing&highlight=stator+testing

[bonanzadave]

Good call Jim. One more thing to add to my spring "to do" list. When I changed my RR I did the stator VAC test but not the leg to ground test. I might start looking for a stator too.........

Is there any explanation for his anomaly where his HL and BL cause a no charge condition ?

[posplayr]

Good call Jim. One more thing to add to my spring "to do" list. When I changed my RR I did the stator VAC test but not the leg to ground test. I might start looking for a stator too.........

Is there any explanation for his anomaly where his HL and BL cause a no charge condition ?

This post

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?255927-GS1100EX-Regulator-Rectifier&p=2578312#post2578312

You probably do not have enough power coming from your stator and so the charging system can not deliver power/voltage under standard loads.

.

[Sparkie]

Thank you everybody for your kindness and quick response. When the new stator is installed I will post the result.

One last question... SH775 it's bigger than the original RR and does not fit in its location.

Does anyone a 1100/750 ET or EX bike with the SH775 installed? I don't find a good place to screw it... maybe above the plastic rear fender :/

[posplayr]

Thank you everybody for your kindness and quick response. When the new stator is installed I will post the result.

One last question... SH775 it's bigger than the original RR and does not fit in its location.

Does anyone a 1100/750 ET or EX bike with the SH775 installed? I don't find a good place to screw it... maybe above the plastic rear fender :/

It will be a very tight squeeze in the stock location, but I think some people have mounted the R/R to the back side of the same electrical side plate. There is room above and to the left side of the battery.

[posplayr]

Just noticed that this thread is in the WTB section. Sparky under GSR maintenance policy, it will disappear in 90 days or so.

Postings to the For Sale and Wanted sections will be deleted 90 days after the initial posting date if there has been no activity to the thread in the last 7 days. This is done to eliminate dead posts from the forum.

[Sparkie]

Thank you postplayr I will try to mount on the back side plate like you say.

Could any moderator to move this thread to the electrical forums?

[Sparkie]

I want to buy this stator: https://www.electrosport.com/product...0-models-80-86

But.. Why have 5 leads instead 3?
I only need three leads for connect to the SH775A. Which are?

[rustybronco]

I want to buy this stator: https://www.electrosport.com/product...0-models-80-86

But.. Why have 5 leads instead 3?

IIRC the early bikes had separate regulators and rectifiers so it was necessary to have duplicate wires. Treat the same coloured wires as one and electrically connect them together. You can double check the combo with a volt ohm meter. Should read 0 or lead resistance only. If the pair of wires chosen show .7 (?) ohm that would mean the resistance is including the stators windings.

[Sparkie]

Hello rustybronco, thank you very much for your answer.

I wrote directly to ElectroSport in the firsts days of January and I get the answer you said
This it's a copy/paste of his answer:

On this application the original wiring configuration required the stators output to split and head to a regulator and a separate rectifier. This is why the stator (which has 3 unique wires) has the wires split, they used to go to two destinations at once. If you have a modern reg/rect unit then you would just take one of each color stator wire. The duplicate colors could be ignored for your needs, you just take one yellow, one white, and the lone teal.

Finally I bought this stator from a German distributor in Ebay, but my surprise was that when arrive to me, the stator had only 3 wires instead of the 5 that appeared in the seller's picture.