Potentially stupid wiring question

[Guest]

I took my carbs out to give them a bit of a cleaning and when reassembling everything I wasnt real careful about reinstalling the airbox and I trapped my ignition wire between the airbox and the negative battery terminal. Went out for a test ride and I fried the wire all the way up to the coils.

I bought a spool of wire and am going to pull out the burnt wire and see if anything else was damaged and have already taken off all the wrapping but have a somewhat dunder head question.

The way it was wired was .. there are 2 blues that come up from the dynatek ignition that went into one wire. An orange and white.

Up the harness and near the coils it is spliced into two wires that go one each to the coils.

Seems to me that I can just use a separate piece of wire from the blue to the coil without going to one wire and then branching to two. Am I missing something? Sure it would add one more wire but can I run them independently all the way to the coils? I just cant see a down side but ... I would hate to fry them again.

From ignition


Along the way


Up at coils

[Gorminrider]

of course I'm a little dislexic reading other peoples' descriptions but if the question is "if a single wire branches to two wires can I replace a branch with another wire the whole distance? " the answer is yes, assuming beginning and ending connections are the same. But the orange/white stripe wire looks not too bad- why not just redo the splice entirely replacing the burned wire ? You would need to make an "excellent splice"...

ADD: the problem you will maybe run into is this: where the Orange/White stripe originates, there will be no "easy place" to connect another wire- a good reason they did it this way in the first place.


That does looks nasty! you'll end up with lots of splices... so if there's any that are fried but terminate nearby, I'd consider unwrapping further and try to replace the entire wire rather than just splice a short end to it.

Also, try to stagger your splices...don't make a clump.

[Boriqua]

Thank you for your reply ... The orange and white only look good after the branch. This is about 6 inches or so from the coils. The rest of the single wire is now bare all the way back to the connector at the ignition wire.

I dont want to make a dozen splices so I want to go right from one blue wire from the ignition straight to a coil and take the other blue wire straight to the other coil without going to a single wire and then branching up at the coils like it is currently set up.

Seems silly to me to have both blue wires go to one, then branch at the coils. I can just send two wires now since i have everything apart. My trepidation is .. if it was done from the factory this way , two wires into one and then breaking into two, There might have been some reason that I cant figure out??

[Gorminrider]

The way it was wired was .. there are 2 blues that come up from the dynatek ignition that went into one wire. An orange and white.

It is the blue that's burned-correct?

do you have the diagram for the Dynatek system? because it's hard guessing ...I can't tell just where you are at in the OEM diagram ..where, are the blue wires attached to O/W. Otherwise, of course

Seems silly to me to have both blue wires go to one, then branch at the coils.

is fine to replace with two separate wires if that is all that's happening. It's just not elegant.

Here's the 850 diagram. For me, O/W "comes from" the fuse, then through the kill switch and somewhere thereafter connects to your dynatek but unfamiliar with where ,for sure. ...oem, it thereafter branches to the "+" side of coils and to power the TCI box ..(which "uses" the power to control the spark... )

Let's keep "direction" or "order" of "power" from the fused side ...the + side. (actually electrons come from the - or "grounded" side, "-" being an electron, after all...but I've never read diagrams this way.)

O/W has it's own fuse.II'm wondering why it didn't blow before this fire...perhaps use a lower value!

80GS850GT_wiring_color-new.jpg

[Boriqua]

I made a terrible mistake .. its red. In the first photo I show 2 RED wires coming from a Grey casing. Those two red wires were going to a single connector from Dyna.

That single connector from the two red wires coming from the grey casing were attached to a single Orange/white via a mating connector. When I pulled all the electric tape and casing off the harness I realized that the single orange and white up at the coils broke again into 2 wires each going to a coil.

I will readily admit .. I dont know what those two red wires coming from the ignition do but they seem to come up from the ignition as a pair then go to one wire and then the one wire becomes a pair again at the coils. Seems silly to me if I got it right.

[Gorminrider]

yes, I think you'll want the Dyna circuit diagram. You need one anyways, just for reference.

What you've described 2-1-2 is not so uncommon....apart from a reason hiding in the harness, perhaps a single model can be easily modified to suit several models...or vestigial stuff. Suzukis for instance- keeping the various stator wires coloured, is a holdover from the headlight-loop.. They might have changed these to the same colour when they got rid of the headlight switch but did not....vehicles go all over the world, to different regulations, and there's probably anomalies or stubs in them too.

[Boriqua]

I found the Dyna circuit drawing

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/Support-Released/Dynatek/Manuals/DS3-1_3-2.pdf

It does show the single wire getting split at the coils. When I removed the rest of the electric tape wrap this morning I found not 2 wired but three under a connector which is what is shown on the dynatek drawing.

So what I have is the dyna coming up along an Orange white. Near the coils that single o/w is split into two orange and white each going to a coil and there is a red wire coming up from what I think is the starter relay tied to the three orange and white wires. The one coming up from the ignition and the two that go to the coil.




I thought that would be the switched power shown in the dynatek drawing but .. it just wont start. It cranks just fine but wouldnt turn over so I put a light on my spark plug wire and I am not getting any spark. I tested the primary on the coils and get 3.5 ohms but nothing is coming out when I start it.

Damn .. I really screwed the wiring up!

Going to start testing from back at the ignition and keep moving forward but if anyone has a clue .. please let me have it. The kill switch is in the on position and the engine is cranking.

To simplify my drivel .. The two dyna wires go to one o/w and the O/W becomes two o/w is attached to the coils and the red coming up from the relay but no spark.

Been reading up .. can someone confirm .. am I supposed to get 12 volts from one of the orange and white wires coming from the front of the bike? I turned on the key switch and made sure the kill switch is in the run position and put my meter to the O/w and to the negative battery terminal but nothing on either one.

Also is that taped up relay thing in my photo what I keep seeing refereed to as the igniter?

[Rob S.]

No stupid questions

I used to teach. I would start each class:

"There are no stupid questions - only thing teachers!

Those who can, do. Those who can't, teach. Those can't teach, teach gym class!"

[Gorminrider]

I don't have a clue what the taped up item is, but I doubt the dynatek shipped that way.

but I looked at your diagram. It looks almost straightforward. It's using the original Suzuki wiring from Key->fuse->killSwitch->coils...the "O/W" orange white stripe...with key and killswitch to ON you should see 12v at O/W.

HOWEVER, You mention "Relay" and "red wire connected to O/W". I can't say for sure but if you are using a "Mod" to power coils with a relay, get rid of the relay (at least temporarily) and restore to original wiring. The relay may easily be the problem. Disconnect and test the relay...Additions are hard for anybody else to troubleshoot, and they add complications. Especially as you add details every time. It's like those English murder mysteries. The whole show depends upon details added near the end. It's impossible to do more than wildly guess from the first 15 minutes...

whatever, You need power at O/W or nothing will happen.

More ....refer to the partial diagram above or your own diagram...O/W is branched to supply "+" at both coils whether OEM or Dyna

Explained? : thereafter, in either case of OEM or Dyna, the "grounding" of the coils is controlled individually with the "other wires" attached to the coils... one per each coil to create spark. These "other wires" on the above diagram are "white" "and Black/Yellow stripe". Dyna diagram shows White and Black...so I'd assume it's very similar.