I'm looking for a spare SH775,what's a fair price here ?

[Steve]

Steve,
I'm not quite sure I understand why you want to pick apart my post in a critical way,that is not helpful.

I'm sorry the facts that I pointed out do not meet with your expectations, I was hoping to show you that some of your expectations were not quite correct.

I am looking for this particular 5-wire SH775 (or equivalent)regulator and a bit of encouraging feedback is what I was hoping for.

You said you were looking for "an SH775 standard 5-wire reg/rect that are available on many used Japanese motorcycles." You should be applauded for looking for a SH775 R/R, I was just pointing out that it is NOT available on many used Japanese motorcycles. I don't know when they were first made, but they showed up on Polaris side-by-side vehicles about 2012. We have since found that they are available on some SeaDoo watercraft, but I don't know what years or models.

I would appreciate it if you would be a bit more helpful with your feedback.

Sorry about that, I thought I was being helpful by guiding you in your search.

I will locate one of these either way,I can locate,purchase and test it.I must have assumed the wrong way that many of the members have done this improvement over their stock unit and might have access to them or have an extra they would sell.

I did mention that most of us are not likely to have a spare sitting around, as they do not tend to fail. I even mentioned that it would be quicker for you to do your own search and purchase, rather than paying what would essentially be a middle-man. I see there are a couple of links to inexpensive units. They happen to be genuine SH775 units, so either one could be purchased with confidence.


As a last resort, feel free to put me on your ignore list, you will see nothing else that originates from my keyboard.

.

[Brendan W]

I had an incident with the charging system. Luckily the stator escaped with no damage at all.
Paid €100 to a Polaris dealer up top of the mountain for the genuine article.
Compared with what I could have been facing it seemed a good deal.

[grcamna2]

I'm sorry the facts that I pointed out do not meet with your expectations, I was hoping to show you that some of your expectations were not quite correct.



You said you were looking for "an SH775 standard 5-wire reg/rect that are available on many used Japanese motorcycles." You should be applauded for looking for a SH775 R/R, I was just pointing out that it is NOT available on many used Japanese motorcycles. I don't know when they were first made, but they showed up on Polaris side-by-side vehicles about 2012. We have since found that they are available on some SeaDoo watercraft, but I don't know what years or models.



Sorry about that, I thought I was being helpful by guiding you in your search.



I did mention that most of us are not likely to have a spare sitting around, as they do not tend to fail. I even mentioned that it would be quicker for you to do your own search and purchase, rather than paying what would essentially be a middle-man. I see there are a couple of links to inexpensive units. They happen to be genuine SH775 units, so either one could be purchased with confidence.


As a last resort, feel free to put me on your ignore list, you will see nothing else that originates from my keyboard.

.

Well,
Sorry, I was misunderstood. I see what you mean.
The SH775 is not just a common '5 wire' reg/rect.

[grcamna2]

I had an incident with the charging system. Luckily the stator escaped with no damage at all.
Paid €100 to a Polaris dealer up top of the mountain for the genuine article.
Compared with what I could have been facing it seemed a good deal.

Hi Brendan,
I'm glad you were able to only replace the reg/rect unit And that you sourced an SH775.
I broke down in Wyoming last year(oem style r/r)and member 'mista M' had given me a used SH678c-13 which I installed into my wiring harness(one of the wires in my harness was over heated and I never dealt with the hurried install I needed to do,just kept riding the bike..),so I tested my stator continuity yesterday it looks all good. I tested the SH678c and found it faulty.I just recd the used SH775 in the mail yesterday,will test it today. I'm hoping for 'two thumbs up',then will install and read the meter.

[roeme]

(...)I tested the SH678c and found it faulty.(...)

How did you test it?

Reason I'm asking is because integrated R/R's usually cannot be tested off-bike without proper equipment.

[grcamna2]

How did you test it?

Reason I'm asking is because integrated R/R's usually cannot be tested off-bike without proper equipment.

A multimeter set on diode,by the book.

[Steve]

Doing a diode test on an R/R will only test the rectifier part of the device.
The only way to test the regulator is to connect it to a running engine.

There are 12 measurements when doing the diode tests, they ALL have to pass. If even one does not pass, the whole device is bad.

.

[tom203]

A multimeter set on diode,by the book.

Please note that you can't test a SH-775 this way....the SCRs don't conduct until they are turned on by the internal circuitry. If you install the SH-775 and still have poor output, suspect the stator (or connections)....a continuity stator test is inconclusive.

[grcamna2]

Please note that you can't test a SH-775 this way....the SCRs don't conduct until they are turned on by the internal circuitry. If you install the SH-775 and still have poor output, suspect the stator (or connections)....a continuity stator test is inconclusive.

Steve,
Then I need to hook up this SH775 to test whether it charges ?

[Steve]

That would be correct.

While you have the wires disconnected, check the output of the stator first. Stock stators have different-colored wires. Some replacements do, too, but most replacement stators have all wires the same color. The colors of the wires do not matter. Arbitrarily label them "A", "B" and "C". You might need a helper for this, but hold the engine speed at 5000 RPM and measure AC voltage from A to B, A to C and B to C. They should all be pretty close to the same and probably between 75 and 90 volts AC.

Now that you know the stator is good, you can check the R/R. Connect the three stator wires to the three inputs on the R/R. Connect the next terminal on the R/R to the battery + and the last terminal to battery - (temporarily). There are better places for the + and - wires, but this will be good enough for testing.

Clip the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter to read DC volts.
- With the key OFF, you should see 12.6-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type.
- Key ON, wait about 10 seconds, battery should remain over 12 volts.
- Start engine, voltage could be anywhere from 11.5 to 14 volts. It should stabilize after a couple of minutes.
- Run engine up to about 2500 RPM, voltage should rise to about 14.
- Run the engine up to about 5000 RPM, voltage might rise to about 14.4, but should NOT drop below 14.

.

[grcamna2]

That would be correct.

While you have the wires disconnected, check the output of the stator first. Stock stators have different-colored wires. Some replacements do, too, but most replacement stators have all wires the same color. The colors of the wires do not matter. Arbitrarily label them "A", "B" and "C". You might need a helper for this, but hold the engine speed at 5000 RPM and measure AC voltage from A to B, A to C and B to C. They should all be pretty close to the same and probably between 75 and 90 volts AC.

Now that you know the stator is good, you can check the R/R. Connect the three stator wires to the three inputs on the R/R. Connect the next terminal on the R/R to the battery + and the last terminal to battery - (temporarily). There are better places for the + and - wires, but this will be good enough for testing.

Clip the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter to read DC volts.
- With the key OFF, you should see 12.6-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type.
- Key ON, wait about 10 seconds, battery should remain over 12 volts.
- Start engine, voltage could be anywhere from 11.5 to 14 volts. It should stabilize after a couple of minutes.
- Run engine up to about 2500 RPM, voltage should rise to about 14.
- Run the engine up to about 5000 RPM, voltage might rise to about 14.4, but should NOT drop below 14.

.

Okay,
I will do all of those things.
What voltage should I see during idle?
The way it was before this work it was discharging

[Steve]

What voltage should I see during idle?

Clip the meter leads to the battery terminals, set the meter to read DC volts.
- With the key OFF, you should see 12.6-12.8 volts, depending on the battery type.
- Key ON, wait about 10 seconds, battery should remain over 12 volts.
- Start engine, voltage could be anywhere from 11.5 to 14 volts. It should stabilize after a couple of minutes.
- Run engine up to about 2500 RPM, voltage should rise to about 14.
- Run the engine up to about 5000 RPM, voltage might rise to about 14.4, but should NOT drop below 14.

The voltage that shows right after you start the bike will depend a lot on the initial state of charge, as well as how long you had to crank the starter before the engine fired. If the battery is down a bit for either one of those, the voltage might be a bit low at first, but will rise after the battery starts getting charged. That's why it will "stabilize" after a couple of minutes. After the bike has been run for a while, dropping down to idle might still keep about 14 volts on the meter. Some bikes will drop down as far as mid-12s, others will stay in the upper-13s. As long as the voltage rises by the time you get to 2000-2500 RPM, it won't really matter what it is at idle.

.

[grcamna2]

The voltage that shows right after you start the bike will depend a lot on the initial state of charge, as well as how long you had to crank the starter before the engine fired. If the battery is down a bit for either one of those, the voltage might be a bit low at first, but will rise after the battery starts getting charged. That's why it will "stabilize" after a couple of minutes. After the bike has been run for a while, dropping down to idle might still keep about 14 volts on the meter. Some bikes will drop down as far as mid-12s, others will stay in the upper-13s. As long as the voltage rises by the time you get to 2000-2500 RPM, it won't really matter what it is at idle.

.

When I first(a year ago)installed the SH678c it was close to 14vts even at idle.I checked across the battery terminals with that old r/r SH678c before removing it and it would only have 12.3vts while idling.When I raised the rpms to 3k and anove it would climb to a max of 13.5vts. I turned off the key and I had 12.6vts at the battery.
I charged my battery(batterymart.com yb10l-a2 agm)and she's at a steady 12.93 no load volts.
When I do the stator test,that's with the 3 yellow/stator wires disconnected from the system,yes ?

[grcamna2]

Yes,
I see that the SH775 r/r are high priced,compared to just a standard 5 wire r/r.
Can they be adapted to any cycle which takes the 5-wire type ?

[Nessism]

I wouldn't bother performing a no-load stator test since the results may be inconclusive. Just hook up the SH775 per this diagram, make sure your battery is fully charged, and then check charging system voltage across the battery. If you get low output and hooked up the SH775 like shown then your stator is weak.

SH775 Install by nessism, on Flickr