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    #16
    Originally posted by Big T View Post
    Well, a bunch of resistance testing led me to the ignition switch. I know I took it apart and cleaned it a few years back, but the damage is obvious

    The left (overheated) plate in the top photo corresponds to the two lower copper studs in the lower photo. The plate was replaced with one from a spare switch, and the studs were wet sanded with 2000 grit until smooth. Voltage drop between the main fuse and the others is now about .5 V, instead of 2 V

    Road testing with tools and fuses to follow
    Those dry contact in the ignition switch will quickly oxidize again and you will have 1-2 V drops promptly restored.

    That is what they make Deoxit for. It cleans light oxidation and prevents formation.

    Typically you would have dielectric grease in something like an IGN switch.

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      #17
      Jim, I put more than enough DeOxit on everything I touched, including the replacement fuse box
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

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        #18
        Originally posted by Big T View Post
        Jim, I put more than enough DeOxit on everything I touched, including the replacement fuse box
        I have been able to typically get ground voltage drops down to between 0.05-0.2V.

        Your quoted 0.5V drop after cleaning is still way too high.

        It may very well be in the crimps. They have to be chemically cleaned, I use Naval Jelly and liquid flux to flow solder itno those crimps to displace any possible corrosion.

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