Weak spark

[cowboyup3371]

That was the pilot jet. If it was stuck, did you get it out? If not they are not cleaned and you will still need to go back through them again

[Wingsconsin]

Oh, their advice is great, and I'm thankful for it. It's my lack of knowledge and experience. This is my first motorcycle, and thusly my first motorcycle engine I've ever worked on. I feel like I did everything correctly, and then nothing happens. I just took the carburetor off. I'm going to send pictures of the float needles and jets. My original issue that I made this thread for seems to be kinda solved...?

For example, one of the carburetor jets was stuck in its hole. I think it was a needle jet? One of the tiny ones under the rubber plug.

Your "lack of knowledge" is changing rapidly -
Stay patient - the hive mind will get you through this.
This bike will RUN again and RUN WELL

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

I got the left coil to spark for a short while, which got my bike running. However, it stopped. When I went to check the wires, the spade connectors came off. I had none to replace them, so I switched to bullet connectors.
Still no spark. Still getting 11.37 volts at the orange and white wires where they go to the connectors to hook up to the ignition coil. However, with the new connectors, there's no spark. When I pulled the white wire out of its connector and touched the copper strands to the metal in the connector, it causes the spark plug tester I had connected to flash. When I wrap the copper strands around the bullet connector (after removing the terminal it was plugged into), no spark. Noob question, but shouldn't simply touching the exposed wires from the harness to the exposed wires from the coil conduct electricity and make the spark plug spark?
20191005_164235.jpg

[OldVet66]

The kind of connectors you are using are about the worst you can get. The real deal has a set of wings that wrap around the stranded wire and dig into the center of the strands and a set of wings that wrap around the insulation to provide strain relief at the same time. There are covers for the connection terminals. It requires a special crimp tool that is designed for the connectors and the good ones are double action so the crimps are correct for your wire size. The crimps are just like factory crimps. Do it once and forget about it. I think you need to use a terminal where you can see the results of your connection. This site has a decent crimp tool for $32.00: http://www.cycleterminal.com/motorcycle-connectors.html

[Steve]

Noob question, but shouldn't simply touching the exposed wires from the harness to the exposed wires from the coil conduct electricity and make the spark plug spark?

No. The spark happens when you DIS-connect the wires.

When the wires are connected and current is flowing, a magnetic field is also created. When the connection is opened (removing the wire, points opening, ignitor opening the connection), the current stops, the magnetic field collapses and the spark is generated.

.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

New connectors, but still no reliable spark. I got it to spark for a bit, but then I had to charge the battery.15704900087974470573783609324788.jpg

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

This is the reading on my multimeter on connectors with the ignition set to On:15704903792455952659068377698123.jpg

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

While cranking, it shows 7.66.

Also, when I touch the left coil (the one that isn't sparking), it feels warm. I see just the faintest of flashes in my spark plug tester while cranking.

[Wingsconsin]

Are those readings Volts ? (VDC)
I believe the bike needs to see at least 10 V while cranking to have a chance to start -
Take your battery in to be tested at a Batteries Plus, or some other auto outlet
(I can't read the setting on the VM - Old eyes )

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

Yes, it's in volts. And it's a new battery.
This is enough voltage to get the right coil to spark, and the left coil will spark intermittently. The problem is getting the left coil to spark reliably.

[OldVet66]

Not enough voltage to start the bike with an electronic igniter. You have to solve the cranking voltage drop before your bike has a chance to run. You could try a fully charged automotive battery out of the vehicle (a running vehicle will make toast out of your electrical system). Maybe if you hear it run once, or try to you will give up on perusing unproductive avenues of diagnosis. I know I have mentioned more than once that low voltage will not start a bike with electronic ignition. Your starter motor could be drawing too much for your battery, a lot of your electrical connections could still need cleaning or there could be a problem with the igniter. Valves might need adjusting or you could have a fuel flow problem. Work on eliminating each problem one at a time. The connectors you are using are crap, and a good clean visual connection between wire and connector that you can check each side of the bullet for continuity will ensure it isn't your crimp methods. I am not trying to hurt your feelings, just trying to get you to eliminate all problem areas that could prevent the motor from running so you don't keep chasing your tail and actually make logical progress with your troubleshooting. If you clear each possible problem one at a time you will eventually have success and learn a lot about your bike in the process.

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

And I'm thankful for your honesty. If I'm screwing up, call me out on it. It's all going to help me better understand the machine.

The connectors are crap? I'm using connectors recommended to me by the forum from CycleTerminal.

I went and got an El Cheapo circuit tester last night, and it revealed something interesting.

The positive (orange/white) wire has current flow 15705539042063728742128280432697.jpg

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

However, the white wire connection does not. I'll start at the connectors, and see if I crimped it wrong.

EDIT: I did not crimp it wrong. Power seems to flow on and off when I jiggle the black wire from the battery.
1570553982309743430889832263079.jpg

[Wingsconsin]

The connectors are fine as long as the crimp is tight -
Exposed -- not so much -- they will need shrink wrap at the very least to insulate them -
I can understand leaving them 'open' for now may ease the process of trouble shooting - but if they short out on the frame = no bueno

[ZombiePotatoSalad]

That's my intention. Keeping them exposed will let me test the connection. When I'm finally satisfied with the connection, I do have some shrink wrap. I finally got the battery ground wire off (had to gut a couple of the airbox screws). I'm going to replace the wire, and hope that helps.