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What my timing light revealed

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    What my timing light revealed

    First, although I'd done a static timing adjust to my bike, it was still running like dookie. So I hooked up my timing light (a Sears/Penske inductive unit-the best there is in my book) and discovered that the two firing banks weren't in sync, with 2/3 firing a bit tardy from that of 1/4. In order to sync them, I had to use up the entire plate travel of 2/3...but it was still a smidge off. Had to retard 1/4 by a hair in order for the bank to sync up with 2/3 (which was still a scoatch advanced). A twiddle & a tweak and they're in sync as best as possible.

    Second, while strobing cylinder No. 3 I discovered that its' firing was sparatic-3 flashes on, 5 hits no flash, 4 flashes, 2 hits nothing, 2 strobes, 3 nothing, etc, etc.

    Immediately began assuming points/condenser isssues, so to affirm my thoughts I moved the timing light's inductor to cylinder No. 2 - and it was rock solid with a strobe at every hit. Back to cylinder No.3-still sparatic.

    Tore down the plug cap (which removed from lead far too easily...hmmm), spring & resistor core looked a bit heat stressed, otherwise OK. Cut 1/4" off lead & re-attached plug cap with affirmation (!). Start up, strobe still sparatic. Pulled plug, looked dry/sooty; replaced with known good plug...and then ran out of time.

    Question: Has or would a failing coil present these symptoms or can I rule it out? The HT leads appear OK but are original to the bike ('78 GS750E), as are the plugs & caps (points/condensers look new-ish). If I find the symptoms still there I'll swap out the cap next, but I'm kinda hell-bent over true originality wherever I can be including common-wear components.

    Your thoughts greatly appreciated. TIA.
    '78 GS750E (currently undergoing TLC).

    #2
    Daft to retain forty-year-old parts that degrade with time.
    Put new leads and caps on.
    You wouldn't keep plugs for four decades.
    ---- Dave

    Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

    Comment


      #3
      Do away with resistors. Get some 1/8 inch rod and cut a little longer than a resistor. Use the bench grinder to size the rods same as the resistors. Insert rods and springs 2 and 3 have springs and 1 and 4 dont). That PERMANENTLY eliminates ant resistor fails. Stretch the springs a little to so they make good contact.
      MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
      1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550

      NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.


      I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.

      Comment


        #4
        I would move coil 1/4 to the 2/3 position and see if the problem follows the coil.
        1981 Suzuki GS250T
        1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
        1985 Suzuki GS550E
        2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by fbody_mike View Post
          I would move coil 1/4 to the 2/3 position and see if the problem follows the coil.
          Easier said than done, on some coils.

          Some coils have terminal posts for the primary wires, and it would be easy enough to swap the wires from one coil to the other, but there are also many coils out there that have the primary wires molded into the coil housing. Since the connectors are specific from one side to the other, you will either have to swap the connectors or make some adapters.

          .
          sigpic
          mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
          hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
          #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
          #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
          Family Portrait
          Siblings and Spouses
          Mom's first ride
          Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
          (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

          Comment


            #6
            An old GS should just have bullet connectors, swap the primary wires probably white and black, and swap the secondary wires from 1<->2 and 3<->4. It is definitely the next thing I would try.
            1981 Suzuki GS250T
            1982 Yamaha Seca Turbo
            1985 Suzuki GS550E
            2004 Suzuki GSF1200S

            Comment


              #7
              I have not worked on a '78 for quite some time, but the '80-and-up bikes that I usually work on have two-pin connectors for the coils. One side will have the male pins on the coil, the other side will have the female pins on the coil, just so you don't mix them up.

              .
              sigpic
              mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
              hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
              #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
              #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
              Family Portrait
              Siblings and Spouses
              Mom's first ride
              Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
              (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

              Comment


                #8
                I'd be checking the vacuum line for the petcock to see if the diaphragm is bad and leaking additional fuel into cylinder #3
                Just take the line off the petcock and plug it with a bolt or something, then run the bike on Prime
                1978 GS 1000 (since new)
                1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
                1978 GS 1000 (parts)
                1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
                1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
                1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
                2007 DRz 400S
                1999 ATK 490ES
                1994 DR 350SES

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Steve View Post
                  Easier said than done, on some coils.

                  Some coils have terminal posts for the primary wires, and it would be easy enough to swap the wires from one coil to the other, but there are also many coils out there that have the primary wires molded into the coil housing. Since the connectors are specific from one side to the other, you will either have to swap the connectors or make some adapters.

                  .
                  For what its worth, I easily did this on a frr '79 GS 850 I got to determine where the problem was. Isolated it to a bad condenser, as the problem followed the points, not the coil. Plenty of slack to do it on that bike. I still like points.
                  sigpic Too old, too many bikes, too many cars, too many things

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