(non)Charging system problem

[Rob S.]

The talk here of changing to a different type of R/R is for an R/R that operates differently (called series regulator) and is easier on the stator so the stator last longer. That will require getting different wiring connectors and such.You decide if want to do that, or just replace what is there with similar.

Thank you, Redman. Not so much for your technical, testing tips (I won't lie and say I could follow) but for the absolution.

I have on occasion, in the six years I've owned the 11E and been on this site, felt that I was sinning against God and man for not replacing my R/R (with a series type). Maybe I'm just paranoid, but some of the top electrical gurus here have suggested that I was neglectful, especially considering the thousands of $ I have put into the bike, for not investigating, at least, the charging system.

I thought the tires and brakes were my top priority. Then I did (paid to have done) the chain and sprockets, valve adjust, jetting on a Dyno, etc. etc. Yes, there was some vanity spending - 140 speedo, side covers, grips. The battery was usually quite low on a couple of cells, and the vent tube was rarely to be found, but the bike always ran great, even the one time the battery stranded me and I had to bump start her away from home. So I eventually replaced the battery (AGM type, of course).

But so many here say, "Check the stator, replace the R/R, you're asking for trouble." My mechanic is an expert (as is his partner, who once owned an '82 or '83 11E), and his mantra is pretty much "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

This was his advice concerning the charging system and the compression testing, as well as other things I've probably forgotten. "Why do you want to pay me to check your compression? I'm always surprised at how good this old bike runs. Knowing the compression figures would not serve any purpose," he would say. "And what's wrong with your stator and R/R? Isn't the bike charging itself?"

So thanks again, Redman, for a little peace of mind. The compression figures have never kept me up at night, but images of a fried stator are in my head. If it happens, I'll deal with it. And I know some will say, "It's not if, it's when." I should only live so long.

[Rob S.]

Ah, speak of the devil! I'm funnin' ya, Pos. It's all good-natured, I swear to God (get it? devil and God, and I'm the one who gripes about religion in your signature ).

I respect your knowledge, and I know you are pretty much the go-to guy here when it comes to electricity. And I'm still getting good usage out of the two sets of sidecovers you so beautifully finished.

I dish it out, but I can take it. So it's your turn, now. Let me have it, both barrels. No need to turn the other cheek (sorry, I can't seem to stop myself). Might be time to check my meds (or at least my regulator ).

[phydeauxmutt]

My mechanic is an expert ..., and his mantra is pretty much "if it ain't broke, don't fix it."

You need to introduce him to a better mantra.

"If it ain't broke, fix it until it is."

[posplayr]

Ah, speak of the devil! I'm funnin' ya, Pos. It's all good-natured, I swear to God (get it? devil and God, and I'm the one who gripes about religion in your signature ).

I respect your knowledge, and I know you are pretty much the go-to guy here when it comes to electricity. And I'm still getting good usage out of the two sets of sidecovers you so beautifully finished.

I dish it out, but I can take it. So it's your turn, now. Let me have it, both barrels. No need to turn the other cheek (sorry, I can't seem to stop myself). Might be time to check my meds (or at least my regulator ).

the OP’s bike is not only not charging but also smoking from melted insulation! This is not a situation to invoke “ if it ain’t broke don’t t fixit”

[GS850Mike]

Does anyone else make the series type R/R besides shindengen? I'm just wondering, to expand my search.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Does anyone else make the series type R/R besides shindengen? I'm just wondering, to expand my search.

I know posplayr has been a proponent lately of certain Compufire RR units. Seems to think they’re as good or better than the SH775. He’ll have to tell you which ones. Jim(posplayr) is the guy to follow on the electrical system here. Pay attention. You need to thoroughly clean up any corrosion in all terminals and replace any melted connectors or sketchy sections of wire with like gauge. Deoxit is great for cleaning up connections. I’ve also used solution of vinegar followed by solution of baking soda.

[posplayr]

I know posplayr has been a proponent lately of certain Compufire RR units. Seems to think they’re as good or better than the SH775. He’ll have to tell you which ones. Jim(posplayr) is the guy to follow on the electrical system here. Pay attention. You need to thoroughly clean up any corrosion in all terminals and replace any melted connectors or sketchy sections of wire with like gauge. Deoxit is great for cleaning up connections. I’ve also used solution of vinegar followed by solution of baking soda.

I have liked the Compufire for sometime. Price wise the SH-775 has always been better when you could buy them for $30-$60 USD compared to $180-$215 USD for teh Compufire. But is there are unlabeled CF's for $45 then that is a slam dunk.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?161397-Compu-Fire-SERIES-R-R-Install&highlight=Compufire

[posplayr]

Does anyone else make the series type R/R besides shindengen? I'm just wondering, to expand my search.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?191795-GS-Stator

[GS850Mike]

I finally got the title for the bike, so now I can start looking to spend money on it. Posplayr, you mention $45.00 unlabeled CF R/Rs, how do you find those and determine what they are if they are not labeled?

[posplayr]

I finally got the title for the bike, so now I can start looking to spend money on it. Posplayr, you mention $45.00 unlabeled CF R/Rs, how do you find those and determine what they are if they are not labeled?

The seller states that is what they are. If you have an AC current ampo you can confirm the series operation by just looking at one of the R/R stator wires when you turn on and off the headlamps. With headlamps off the current should drop by 5 amps. A shunt R/R will do the opposite, current rises when the headlamp is off.

The case/connector is identical to the Compufire which is unique. The only thing missing is the label. There is a possibility it is someki dnof fake, but i woudl put that as a low probability (10-20%) . The item is listed as having the same part number as the Compufire. if you are worried contact he seller.

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?257050-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Fit-For-Compu-Fire-40A-55402-3-Phase-Charging-System&highlight=compufire

Take a look they all look identical either over $180 or less than $40

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=Compu-Fire+40A+55402+3-Phase&_sacat=0

Also notice than none of these have the original CF labels and they are all missing the large 40 Amp inline fuse

[GS850Mike]

I ordered one of the cheap ones, is there any way to test it to see if it is a CF type and not a shunt type before installing it? I should receive it by 12/26.

[posplayr]

I ordered one of the cheap ones, is there any way to test it to see if it is a CF type and not a shunt type before installing it? I should receive it by 12/26.

If you have an AC current clamp you can confirm the series operation by just looking at one of the R/R AC stator wires when you turn on and off the headlamps. With headlamps off the current should drop by 5 amps. A shunt R/R will do the opposite, current rises when the headlamp is off.

Sorry no it has to be operating either on a test stand of a bike. it doesn't really have to be mounted but it does need to be connected and grounded.

something like this. It does both AC and DC current with the clamp on.

https://www.amazon.com/Meterk-Multimeter-Auto-ranging-Capacitance-Non-contact/dp/B0721MKXBC/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8

Other might comment on something cheaper they know works. I have a tektronix 622A, but you can get something much cheaper.

https://www.newark.com/tektronix/a622/current-probe-50ma-to-100a-dc/dp/01F2474

[GS850Mike]

So there's no way to test it without installing it first? I hate to do it twice, but I don't want to have a shunt type.

[posplayr]

So there's no way to test it without installing it first? I hate to do it twice, but I don't want to have a shunt type.

Sorry no it has to be operating either on a test stand of a bike. it doesn't really have to be mounted but it does need to be connected and grounded.

The fall back is you pay $200 for the expensive ones but I doubt they are any different.

[GS850Mike]

Fingers crossed!