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Sorry, I have been being lazy, plus the weather hasn't cooperated. I opened up the generator cover this week to replace the stator. A previous owner had glued the gasket on, so I have a big job cleaning both surfaces, then I will get the stator and r/r mounted and wired up. The R/R is considerably larger than the one that was on it, so I'm not sure where it will mount. I am not quick with this stuff, I have a low threshold for frustration, so I walk away before I break things.
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OK, I finally got everything installed on my 850. Ebay r/r, new AGM battery, and caltric stator.
key off 12.7v
key on 10 sec 12.4v
idle fluctuates 12.8-13.2v
2500 rpms fluctuates between 13.5-14.4v
5000 rpms 14.8-15.2v
key off 12.8v
The readings seem to be right about where I want them. The r/r was cool to the touch after about 5 minutes being turned off.
All readings coming from the voltmeter pictured, wired to the battery.vm2.jpg
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Originally posted by GS850Mike View PostOK, I finally got everything installed on my 850. Ebay r/r, new AGM battery, and caltric stator.
key off 12.7v
key on 10 sec 12.4v
idle fluctuates 12.8-13.2v
2500 rpms fluctuates between 13.5-14.4v
5000 rpms 14.8-15.2v
key off 12.8v
The readings seem to be right about where I want them. The r/r was cool to the touch after about 5 minutes being turned off.
All readings coming from the voltmeter pictured, wired to the battery.[ATTACH=CONFIG]61109[/ATTACH]
Averaging the data, it suggests that
idle 13.0V
2500 RPM 13.95V
5000 RPM 15.0V
It is strange that there are multiple reports of charging voltages being well above 14.5V from the SH-775 and now even this clone CF?
The manual says up to 15.5V is OK, but that is not that great from the batteries. 15.0V is the extreme at which point you begin to start boiling your battery.
Did you ever do the current clamp tests to see if it is a series R/R?
Put a clamp on one leg of the stator and see if the current goes down with lights going on (this means series). Pull the headlamp fuse. If you can't unplug or turn off the headlamp.
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It spikes quickly above 15v, but while I am riding it stays in the mid to high 14v. It may be the meter. It's a cheapie, I got it to plug my phone in and to monitor the system. I am most concerned if it quits altogether. I'm happy to get it on the road, I've put about 350 miles on it since Tuesday.
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Originally posted by GS850Mike View PostIt spikes quickly above 15v, but while I am riding it stays in the mid to high 14v. It may be the meter. It's a cheapie, I got it to plug my phone in and to monitor the system. I am most concerned if it quits altogether. I'm happy to get it on the road, I've put about 350 miles on it since Tuesday.
You can do an external analog filter on the the voltage to the meter using a resistor, diode, and a capacitor.
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Originally posted by GS850Mike View PostI'm not too concerned if it jumps around, as long as it stays between 13v and 16v while I'm riding it's fineIf it goes too low or too high while I'm riding then it will alert me to a problem.
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This is an excellent thread. The simple pic with illustration I saw in multiple other threads (by Nessism and posplayr) is a HUGE help. But even so my GS1100E reg has a green wire that I dont see on the upgrade alternative. I am EXCELLENT with mechanical, body repair and prep even carb cleaning and some tuning but am awful with electrical problem diagnosis. I have not done the upgrade for one simple fact. (And I may get eviscerated for it) I am intimidated by installing a regulator/Rectifier that is not plug and play. When wire colors do not match or wire quantities dont match I get real nervous (nervous Ill damage something).Last edited by mharrington; 05-25-2020, 09:34 AM.
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On mine, at least, there are 3 wires from the stator, all yellow. There are 3 wires on the r/r on one end. Connect them together, it doesn't matter which to which. The last 2 wires on the r/r are power and ground. My power had a red band on it, The ground is just black. I was nervous about it, but it actually is easy.
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Thanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.
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Originally posted by mharrington View PostThanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.
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[QUOTE=posplayr;2606319]Do you even have a problem? Did you do a Quick test?
Yes. Key off battery 12.5v. Voltage drop when i turn on key is .50 volt. Bike idle 12.2. 2500rpm 12.6 volts and at 5000rpm 12.6 volts. The regulator and stator are said to have been replaced by prev owner with Rick units in 2015 but it is what it is. The regulator does look like the plug and play unit From Ricks which is identical to the OEM.
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Originally posted by mharrington View PostThanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.---- Dave
Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window
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