(non)Charging system problem

[posplayr]

Yes. Key off battery 12.5v. Voltage drop when i turn on key is .50 volt. Bike idle 12.2. 2500rpm 12.6 volts and at 5000rpm 12.6 volts. The regulator and stator are said to have been replaced by prev owner with Rick units in 2015 but it is what it is. The regulator does look like the plug and play unit From Ricks which is identical to the OEM.

So it sound like whatever replacement that was done in 2015, temporarily fixed the problem by reinstalling a SHUNT R/R (i.e. the Ricks)

The lack of charging is indicative of a failed stator. It is likely burned up which you can confirm when you pull it out.

It should be clear that this is a SHUNT R/R rebuild was temporary solution, becuase nothing changed the factors that killed the charging system the first time (i.e. the SHUNT R/R).

The only solution is to go to a SERIES R/R like the SH-775.

While this is not a guarantee that the charging system will never fail in the future, the consensus experience of teh GSR is that this will dramatically extends the stator lifetime (10-20 years).

[posplayr]

Thanks GS850Mike. I tested AC voltage from my stator. At 4500rpm I read 79 volts. All three tests. It passed the ohm test as well as the ground to engine case test. I did bench test my voltage regulator last week using a drop down chart in the suzuki service manual and if I did that correctly it failed severa testsl. So it looks like i will upgrade. I dont want to risk buying a fraudulent copy of the SSH775 so I am willing to spend the $190? plus for the real deal.

The ohm test is virtually irrelevant.

Did you do a stator leg to ground test at 5K RPM? (each stator leg)

Each leg should have nominally 0 VAC to ground (at 5K RPM) otherwise there is a breakdown of the insulation .

basically you are testing to see if any of that 80 VAC is being shorted to ground.


BTW you should start you own thread.......................

Once you change to teh SH-775 those R/R tests in the manual are not applicable anymore.

[mharrington]

Thank you posplyr. I will perform test at 5k rpm looking for zero voltage. I will start a new thread with my progress as well. But I did send you (posplyr) an email here on the site.

[posplayr]

Thank you posplyr. I will perform test at 5k rpm looking for zero voltage. I will start a new thread with my progress as well. But I did send you (posplyr) an email here on the site.

My handle is "posplayr" so "posply" probably went into the ether.

[GSXR7ED]

OMG!

Old thread and Posplayr is all about closure...lol!

Good info though...like was said.

And participant even had to start his own thread.

Posplayr is the GS Electrics guru whisperer...gotta love him!

Ed

****

[posplayr]

OMG!

Old thread and Posplayr is all about closure...lol!

Good info though...like was said.

And participant even had to start his own thread.

Posplayr is the GS Electrics guru whisperer...gotta love him!

Ed

****

Thanks Ed, but this is an active thread albeit at OP's leisurely pace.

[GS850Mike]

"albeit at OP's leisurely pace." LOL, you're on to me. I hooked up my clamp meter to a stator wire. The reading jumped around a lot, but it did drop when I hooked up a headlight to the battery. It would jump from around 93-96 without the light on, then from 86-90 with the headlight attached.

[posplayr]

"albeit at OP's leisurely pace." LOL, you're on to me. I hooked up my clamp meter to a stator wire. The reading jumped around a lot, but it did drop when I hooked up a headlight to the battery. It would jump from around 93-96 without the light on, then from 86-90 with the headlight attached.

what are the units? Are you measuring AC Current?

If the battery voltage is over 14 volts you are charging, and you shoudl see a larger drop (1/3 of total AC Amps if idled up to 2500 RPM.

[GS850Mike]

I put the meter on amps, it is supposed to self range. It was running at idle, so not revved that high. I was using a spare headlight to do the test, not turning off the bikes headlight. I didn't want to mess with the fusebox.

[posplayr]

Regardless of what your meter is saying, you do not have 90+ amps of AC current running through your stator and much less through any single leg.

[GS850Mike]

I put the meter on A, and clamped the lead onto a stator wire. Is there something else I am supposed to do? Checking continuity and dc volts are about the extent of my electrical testing experience. School me, Sensei!

[posplayr]

I put the meter on A, and clamped the lead onto a stator wire. Is there something else I am supposed to do? Checking continuity and dc volts are about the extent of my electrical testing experience. School me, Sensei!

What meter do you have? Link..............

is it a clamp on meter?

[GS850Mike]

This is the meter https://www.amazon.com/Multimeter-Au...s%2C161&sr=8-7

[posplayr]

I was able to dig up some of my data from 2010 using an instantaneous current clamp.

The typical peak current is no more than 20 amp AC so that is about 15 amp RMS.

At 1000 RPM there will be no diffence between Series and Shunt so you will see little difference between current with headlight on and off.

At 3500 RPM the difference between Series and Shunt is approaching 2:1

Don't assume the diffence between Shunt and Series is the same as between Lights on and Light off. That is different but I'm trying to give you an idea of what range of currents to expect as 100 amp is clearly not a valid value.

[GS850Mike]

Should the stator wire go inside the tip of the clamp, or loose inside the clamp?