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    #16
    But I did think of something that is within my capabilities. I could switch the sportster and 11E batteries temporarily (Sportster starts fine). I mean, they're both 12 volt, right? Are there any differences (amps, ohms, cranking power, etc.) that would make that unfeasible?

    I'm not concerned with outside dimensions because it would be a static, quick test not for riding. And it's only 47 separate steps to remove an 11E battery!

    Posplayr: Thank you sir, may I have another?
    1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

    2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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      #17
      Originally posted by rphillips View Post
      Yep, what he said, the tire pressure. Be sure to check all four.
      First things first. It could be a broken mouse pad.
      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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        #18
        One more thing: the lights being bright, turn signals blinking at a good speed, I didn't verify that while the starter was being engaged.
        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

        Comment


          #19
          My AGM is nearly 7 years old and spins my engine like crazy. It goes on the tender for 2hrs a month. Have your battery checked out then check the starter and its connections. One other thing learn how to use a multi-meter, that mechanic isn't always going to be around.
          Last edited by mrbill5491; 12-04-2019, 05:09 PM.
          sigpicMrBill Been a GSR member on and off since April 2002
          1980 GS 750E Bought new in Feb of 1980
          2015 CAN AM RTS


          Stuff I've done to my bike 1100E front end with new Sonic springs, 1100E swing arm conversion with new Progressive shocks installed, 530 sprockets/chain conversion, new SS brake lines, new brake pads. New SS fasteners through out. Rebuilt carbs, new EBC clutch springs and horn installed. New paint. Motor runs strong.

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            #21
            Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
            . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . I could switch the sportster and 11E batteries temporarily (Sportster starts fine). I mean, they're both 12 volt, right? Are there any differences (amps, ohms, cranking power, etc.) that would make that unfeasible?..
            .
            .
            Yah, both 12vdc. Might have different total power (AmpHour) but that not too much of a factor other than might be differnet physixcal dimensions such that not fit in battery box.

            If does fit, do be aware of which side is + and which is -.
            SOme batterys are oppositie of the other, and you do not want to hook up backwards.

            Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
            GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


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              #22
              Originally posted by Redman View Post
              Yah, both 12vdc. Might have different total power (AmpHour) but that not too much of a factor other than might be differnet physixcal dimensions such that not fit in battery box.

              If does fit, do be aware of which side is + and which is -.
              SOme batterys are oppositie of the other, and you do not want to hook up backwards.
              Yeah, it would just be a temporary, static test. I wouldn't ride it like that. Susie's AGM may even still be on warranty.

              Tis the season - I could ask Santa.
              1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

              2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

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                #23
                start with a half decent multi meter,
                or call a tow truck
                GSX1300R NT650 XV535

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                  #24
                  Dude...
                  Do you not have just one friend that knows how to use a meter or test light?
                  Just one?
                  Maybe ask around? Neighbors, coworkers?
                  Bob T. ~~ Play the GSR weekly photo game: Pic of Week Game
                  '83 GS1100E ~ '24 Triumph Speed 400 ~ '01 TRIUMPH TT600 ~ '67 HONDA CUB

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                    #25
                    1980 Yamaha XS1100G (Current bike)
                    1982 GS450txz (former bike)
                    LONG list of previous bikes not listed here.

                    These aren't my words, I just arrange them

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                      #26
                      Those of you without stock airbox on '82 - '83 11E know that the last step to removing the battery is removing a frame sub member. Mine was held in place by a jumble of Phillips head screws and bolts. A screw driver and a socket or small vise grips did the job. My mechanic replaced these with four shiny new Allen head bolts. My Allen head wrenches are, shall we say, disorganized.

                      Those who still use the stock airbox know that it takes a very full head of hair, because it has to be ripped out in large clumps, not just small tufts.

                      Thanks for the tip LAB3.

                      BTW, I've taken out my shop manuals. Couldn't hurt to know what the starter relay looks like and where it's located.
                      1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                      2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                      Comment


                        #27
                        So what I could use is a "battery load tester"?

                        Thanks, Pos.
                        1982 GS1100E V&H "SS" exhaust, APE pods, 1150 oil cooler, 140 speedo, 99.3 rear wheel HP, black engine, '83 red

                        2016 XL883L sigpic Two-tone blue and white. Almost 42 hp! Status: destroyed, now owned by the insurance company. The hole in my memory starts an hour before the accident and ends 24 hours after.

                        Comment


                          #28
                          Originally posted by Rob S. View Post
                          So what I could use is a "battery load tester"?

                          Thanks, Pos.
                          If you had a volt meter you could just look at the voltage change from turning the key on (See steps #1,#2 of Quick Test) . Since that is too complicated, this load tester will do he same thing but at a higher load level.

                          Basically you want to see how far the battery drops in voltage when you put on a known load.

                          Standard GS loads without cranking but including headlamp is about 0.5 V but not more than 1 volt drop.




                          Quick Test Steps:

                          1.) key off................Normal 12.7 volts-12.9 volts

                          2.) key on (but not cranking with lights for 10 sec).....Normal 12.2-12.5 volts



                          QUICK TEST Diagnosis Summary:

                          Basically Step #1 and #2 is making sure the battery is charged and in good health. The drop should be about 0.5 volts for normal headlamp and coil load (without cranking the starter). Anymore than 0.5V drop indicates the battery is weak even though the static voltage is OK (12.7-12.8V). If your battery is any lower it can have an effect on your charging voltages as the charging system only has so much capacity and will be drug down by a poor battery.
                          Last edited by posplayr; 12-06-2019, 04:09 PM.

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