2 regulators installed? Why me

[open1mind]

So, everyone seems pretty committed to the SH775. I can take a hint, so I will order one of those. What is the best source? Can I trust ebay?https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Can-Am-...-/264299910154

If the consensus is "dont connect the RR to the wiring harness or ignition wires like the stock system", then what the heck do I do with those wires that were cut into by the previous well intended folks. It sure doesnt look like I can just bullet them back together and turn the key - see vids.

Also, what does everyone use on the sh775 to connect to wires, this thing:https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Connecto...e/263909479948

[Rijko]

Also, what does everyone use on the sh775 to connect to wires, this thing:https://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-Connecto...e/263909479948

Left and right are different connectors, so you need the black one also.

i bought these 2 FURUKAWA QLW connectors from Auto-Click.

https://www.auto-click.co.uk/QLW-A-3F-GR and

https://www.auto-click.co.uk/QLW-A-B3F-B

[open1mind]

Thanks
looks like these guyshttps://www.ebay.com/itm/FURUKAWA-CO...0/253394294974

[Rijko]

Can I trust ebay?

NO, lots of fakes around.

What is the best source? https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Can-Am-...-/264299910154

I think that is the best source for a new one.
I have bought 2, seller is great at communicating.

What may be of interest : seller made a mistake on the customs declaration,
which cost me extra on import charges.
The seller immediately responded, and offered to refund the amount
i had lost, and did.

Just saying, stand-up seller as far as i am concerned.

[Big T]

It's a bit hard to tell from your videos which are the stator wires. It appears to be the ones coming from the shrink wrap on the left.

So, never ever take your bike back to the shop that did this.

Check for corrosion in your entire system, including the switches, especially the ignition switch

Then, revamp the wiring as needed. I recently switched to a 775 to resolve some issues. I just ran some jumper wires from the harness to the R/R

[Nessism]

Triumph sells an adapter harness for installing a SH775 that costs about $10. Google search will turn up the number or search here.

I've got a good clean used SH775 that has been tested that's cheaper than that new one. Of course, nothing wrong with new parts.

[Gorminrider]

wow, open1mind. I'm astounded to see such a mess ..maybe I'm missing something in their logic but I don't think I'd puzzle long over what that could be...

Still, that doesn't mean those R/Rs are knackered. Possibly one by itself will work fine. twisted wires and electrical tape will do to test...but do attach those ground wires to a clean spot...

then, or really before the above, Check the AC output of your stator first(60-80VAC on each leg and very near the same on each) . If that's ok, I'd wire one of those in and see if you get charging voltage at the battery ....

[Steve]

Triumph sells an adapter harness for installing a SH775 that costs about $10. Google search will turn up the number or search here.

Or you can wait until that "Steve" guy shows up and give you the number.

T2500676

.

[open1mind]

So, never let it be said that I am too stubborn to take advice.
SH 775 ordered and on the way
Triumph connector ordered, hopefully will ship soon.
Some extra wire, bullet connectors, and battery terminal ring connectors either on hand or ordered
I will connect in the stator directly (not into the harness) per the coaching and diagrams offered up in this thread.

If the stock set up was still in place, I would have little/no anxiety about installing the new stator and RR. I DO have anxiety about removing the connections from the two RR's into the harness and getting those connections back in good order. This is going be an Advil day once I tackle it over the weekend.

I will post some pics once I start disconnecting the offending components. That will probably include some frustrated questions about the harness and getting it back together smoothly.

Thanks to all

[Steve]

While you are waiting, feel free to remove the two R/Rs. I still have my doubts about them both being R/Rs, though. Not sure if your bike is one of them, but some of the earlier bikes had separate R/ and /R, that is Rectifier and Regulator. The stock rectifier looks a lot like the combo R/R units of later years.

Just strip it down to basics. Leave the three stator wires flapping in the breeze. I have chosen to put mine in a 3-pin connector, others like to use individual spade connectors or even solder. Remove your two "devices". You should have a red wire that is fed by at least one of them. That wire is likely just ahead of the fuse box area, just behind the airbox. When you install your 775, connect the output to that red wire. Use whatever means necessary to route the three stator wires to the inputs. Make sure the ground is connected via whatever scheme you have chosen. The "single point" ground makes sense, as all the power and grounds go through just two common points. It is recommended to NOT connect straight to the battery.

It only looks like a mess now. Remove all the mess, you will see how simple it really is.

.

[Big T]

Yes, the 79 has the separate regulator and rectifier.
The Suzuki module is the stock regulator

[posplayr]

79 GS1000 SH-775 Modification with SPG


GS1000_SH775Mods.jpg

[posplayr]

Close up of just the R/R area.

GS1000_SH775Mods2.jpg
(sorry for the crazy formatting inserted from WORD)
Summary:

1. For a conversion from the original separate Regulator and rectifier you want to remove or otherwise ignore any wiring not listed below. This is the circuitry shown covered with the transparent light blue boxes.
2. You should be aware of the basic flow of current:

• Heavy RED wire from the battery at BAT(+) to the main fuse location in the fuse box.
• 14 AWG RED from main fuse output to the “T” and on to the ignition switch

• 14 AWG ORANGE from ignition switch to fuse box for power distribution.
• None of the above should be modified

• Keep track of the RED wire that disappeared into the harness from the original #4 rectifier. This is now fed from the new SH-775 labeled R/R(+)
• 3. New wires to ensure the grounding is correct:

• A1/A2 – Bat(-) Run a wire from the negative battery terminal to the SPG (wire shown in light blue double line)

• B1/B2 – B/W(-) Ring lug. This is HARNESS ground and how the B/W ground wire currents return to the R/R(-). If the B/W with ring lug will not reach to you SPG location then you need to i.) Extend it to the SPG or ii.) Ground it to the frame (not preferred). (wire shown in light blue double line)

• C R/R(-)wire to SPG. SH775 ground through the SH-775 connector to the SPG (make this a 14 AWG wire less than 1 foot long. (wire shown in light blue double line)

• D FRAME ground to SPG. (wire shown in light blue double line)

• SPG can be literally located anywhere as long as it is within the 1 ft length of the R/r(-) wire C but not located at the battery(-)

• “T” is buried in the harness at the RED DOT.

• R/R(+) this is the remaining RED wire coming from your harness that went to the original #6 REG in the schematic. (shown as a dashed RED line)

1. 4. STATOR WIRES:

• 3 STATOR should be run direct to the SH-775 R/R without regard for any of the original wiring.

[open1mind]

Thanks

That will take some strong coffee and some study before I start surgery...

[posplayr]

Thanks

That will take some strong coffee and some study before I start surgery...

Basically you shoudl start pulling back the electrical wrapping and follow the wires under the blue boxes. The wires will either go back to one of other of the R/R's or will disappear deeper into the harness. The only one to be concerned about is the RED indicated by the DASHED RED line.

The headlamp loop wires will be left as spare coming from the harness. There are unpowered when you run the stator direct to the SH-775.

The long run or RED and ORANGE wire is to show you how the battery voltage comes through the main furs, goes to teh "T" and then routes through the ignition switch before coming back to the distribution fuses n the fuse box. This is shown in my simplified diagram marked up from another factory diagram.

Go one wire at a time and go down the list.

As a safety check before you power anything up, run you ohm meter between the main battery terminals connector (NOT ACROSS THE BATTERY). You should have 10's of ohms of resistance and if so there is no short and you can safely hook up the battery.


If you want either the manual where i got the schematic or the powerpoint file where i modified it PM me your email address.