Bizzarre one coil sparking problem

[Guest]

I've been reading Brian's thread concerning this issue, but this problem needs it's own thread.. I was just in my semi heated garage here in Vermont, trying to make sense of what I'm finding. The left coil is working, the right not working. The HT wires on the left coil,(working) read "0" ohms. The HT leads on the right coil, "not working" reads 38k ohms. Both coils read 4.2 ohms at the spade connectors. I triple checked this with my Fluke 79 meter. Any ideas?

[tom203]

Unscrew the plug caps on a coil....now stick your meter probes in the plug wires ...you should see about 12kohms. Plug caps get corroded and give erratic readings. Ignition coils are very reliable. new 5kohm plug caps cost about $5.
Both you and Brian likely have a smoked ignitors...(one side no fire)

[Redman]

0 ohms ?? or Infinite ?? (touch leads together to see what 0 displays like, leave leads apart to see what infinite looks like). Also state if that is wire to wire of if cap to cap.
Since it is the working coil, I suspect is neither, 0 nor infinite, since it should be more like 25K to 30K (5K + 5K + 15or20K) measuring cap to cap.

Also, list your bike in your signature line so we know what bike you have.

And good idea to repeat your symptoms here (is confusing in the other post when talking about two situations).

[OutbackPhil]

My CDI packed it in resulting in one coil working (firing) and the other not firing but becoming super hot to the touch. Swapping the black and white wires made the symptoms flip to the other coil working and one not but getting hot.

I think there's coil testing figures in the Clymer manual for a voltmeter?

I ended up installing a boyer bransden CDI and signal generator and keeping the stock coils because they worked fine and we're back in busine

[abaton6]

Unscrew the plug caps on a coil....now stick your meter probes in the plug wires ...you should see about 12kohms. Plug caps get corroded and give erratic readings. Ignition coils are very reliable. new 5kohm plug caps cost about $5.
Both you and Brian likely have a smoked ignitors...(one side no fire)

Thanks for your help. OK, took off the plug caps, cut a half inch off em and checked them out. The left coil was 11.33k, the right, 11.18k. Then, with the ignition on I checked the power to the coils,....Left,11 v,...Right 2.6 v I then checked the plug for those wires under the seat, same readings, and the connections in the plug looked bright and shiny. then I checked the igniter, where the wires go in. I goofed here,..I read someone said to check the connections at the igniter, so I tried to get one off, and broke it, so now I need a replacement. I also checked the spark plug caps for continuity, and found one that is broken inside, no continuity. So, since I only had 2.6 volts to the right coil power, (before I broke the wire off the igniter), do you think the igniter is the problem? And where would you go to find one? Thanks for your help getting this bike ready to ride this summer. I have two other Suzuki's to ride, bur this one will transport me back in time.

[abaton6]

Where did you get your parts? Thanks

[tom203]

You could opt for the Dyna S setup...this replaces the stock ignitor and the signal coil.
Or you can get a used ignitor off eBay ..p/n 32900-34210
If you post a bond of $70, I will send you good tested ignitor....install it, see if solves your problem. If you want to keep it, great. If not send it back and I’ll refund your money less my shipping cost, probably $8 for priority mail.
For testing purposes, you don’t have to remove your existing ignitor, just unplug it, and connect the test unit up.
If interested or questions, send me PM here with your email address and I will respond.

[abaton6]

Can you tell me more about the dyna S?

[tom203]

Can you tell me more about the dyna S?

The dyna setup is available from lots of sellers...google it. You need the ND setup for the Suzuki gs 4 cylinders
i responded to your PM .