GS1000E Stator, regulator or rectifier fault find

[GSthou]

Many thanks fastbysuzuki, my stator initially has 3 wires coming from the legs of the stator with further up the sheathing 2 more jointed wires teed into two of those wires making 5 wires. 3 of the stator wires went straight to the standard rectifier and the 2 jointed wires went straight to the standard regulator. Do I assume that when I connect up the stator wires to my new series r/r that the wires that are jointed are fed together into the terminal.

[fastbysuzuki]

Hi, I think this post will answer your question. https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Gs1000+775+fit

[GSthou]

Hi, I think this post will answer your question. https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...Gs1000+775+fit

Many thanks fastbysuzuki, that link was just the job my friend.

Just out of interest did you get your SH775 to fit on the original mounting plate or did you have to mod it

[fastbysuzuki]

My original regulator/rectifier fit under the battery box, the sh775 hole centres are a tad different from the Oem unit I took off he Battery box removed the bridge piece that the original reg/rect fit made a new one out off aluminium ( it could be steel) with the correct hole centres I also angled it to tilt down a bit to allow easier access/ fitting of the plugs on the triumph lead then riveted it back to the battery box.
I think yours may be a different fitting position than mine bear in mind when installing the sh775 the plugs take a bit of room up.

if you want a spare sh775 grab this great seller very cheap price https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Reg...53.m1438.l2649

[GSthou]

My original regulator/rectifier fit under the battery box, the sh775 hole centres are a tad different from the Oem unit I took off he Battery box removed the bridge piece that the original reg/rect fit made a new one out off aluminium ( it could be steel) with the correct hole centres I also angled it to tilt down a bit to allow easier access/ fitting of the plugs on the triumph lead then riveted it back to the battery box.
I think yours may be a different fitting position than mine bear in mind when installing the sh775 the plugs take a bit of room up.

if you want a spare sh775 grab this great seller very cheap price https://www.ebay.com/itm/Polaris-Reg...53.m1438.l2649

Many thanks for the info. Snapped up the spare SH775 mentioned. Was thinking the same about making an aluminium bridge piece to accommodate the new SH775 because it looks like space will be of the essence.

[GSthou]

Just a quick update for you all, the Sh775 has arrived today and just fitted the new stator. Awaiting the Triumph connector kit hopefully that should be here in the next few days. Will be modding the backing plate to accept the Sh775. In line with Jim's SPG advice what gauge wire is best to use from the battery to the SPG and from the SPG to the frame please.

[Grimly]

Just a quick update for you all, the Sh775 has arrived today and just fitted the new stator. Awaiting the Triumph connector kit hopefully that should be here in the next few days. Will be modding the backing plate to accept the Sh775. In line with Jim's SPG advice what gauge wire is best to use from the battery to the SPG and from the SPG to the frame please.

I used 6 sq mm from the engine to battery, as that was pretty much what was on there from the factory, but it had got rotted over the years. I intend to re-do that, as I didn't have any multi-stranded cable at the time, so there's a risk of fracture from vibration with what's on there at the moment. I think I'll use some 10sq mm welding cable for that leg. 6sq mm from frame to SPG should be more than adequate for everything else.

[GSthou]

I used 6 sq mm from the engine to battery, as that was pretty much what was on there from the factory, but it had got rotted over the years. I intend to re-do that, as I didn't have any multi-stranded cable at the time, so there's a risk of fracture from vibration with what's on there at the moment. I think I'll use some 10sq mm welding cable for that leg. 6sq mm from frame to SPG should be more than adequate for everything else.

Many thanks Grimly, I am not familiar with the wire measurements would 6 sq mm be 14 awg, I have both 14 and 16 awg wire

[fastbysuzuki]

Taken from one of posplayer's post.
A.) Locate the SPG no more than 1 ft from the R/R(-) . The 1 ft is the length of wire from the R/R(-) to the SPG. It does not matter what you bolt to, plastic , frame or side plate.

B.) Create a low impedance ( less than 0.05 ohms) link between all the following wires at the SPG:

1. R/R(-) 14 awg
2. Battery(-) 16 awg
3. Frame ground 16 awg
4. Harness ground B/W ring lug.

[GSthou]

Taken from one of posplayer's post.
A.) Locate the SPG no more than 1 ft from the R/R(-) . The 1 ft is the length of wire from the R/R(-) to the SPG. It does not matter what you bolt to, plastic , frame or side plate.

B.) Create a low impedance ( less than 0.05 ohms) link between all the following wires at the SPG:

1. R/R(-) 14 awg
2. Battery(-) 16 awg
3. Frame ground 16 awg
4. Harness ground B/W ring lug.

Spot on, thank you

[GSthou]

Decided to order a Voltmeter for the GS so I can keep an eye on how well she is charging once I get all my parts. This seem like a silly question, the Led Voltmeter just has 2 wires where would be best to connect to get a constant charging voltage when the ignition is on?

[fastbysuzuki]

I purchased a Kuryakyn volt meter (expensive) and spliced it into the orange wire coming from the ignition switch in the headlamp bucket along side with a 1amp inline fuse ( you need it fused as this is a 15 amp feed) there are plenty earths in the bucket, doing it this way you will get a voltage drop on you volt meter, mine is a 1/2 volt.
you can check your voltage drop with multimeter on the orange wire.
if you want total accuracy you would have to take a feed from the battery (fused of course) directly to the handle bar and have a switch so you can turn off when bike is not used, as this would be live when ignition is off
or take a feed from battery to a relay from relay to voltmeter, then taking a feed from brake light switch to trigger the relay, on the 850 the brake light switch is live when ignition is turned on. (the feed fused again)

[GSthou]

I purchased a Kuryakyn volt meter (expensive) and spliced it into the orange wire coming from the ignition switch in the headlamp bucket along side with a 1amp inline fuse ( you need it fused as this is a 15 amp feed) there are plenty earths in the bucket, doing it this way you will get a voltage drop on you volt meter, mine is a 1/2 volt.
you can check your voltage drop with multimeter on the orange wire.
if you want total accuracy you would have to take a feed from the battery (fused of course) directly to the handle bar and have a switch so you can turn off when bike is not used, as this would be live when ignition is off
or take a feed from battery to a relay from relay to voltmeter, then taking a feed from brake light switch to trigger the relay, on the 850 the brake light switch is live when ignition is turned on. (the feed fused again)

Thank you, glad you are here fastbysuzuki, I think I will use the spliced orange wire technique, sounds a bit complicated the other way.

[GSthou]

Well after what seems to of been an eternity waiting for new parts (over 2 months) I am hoping it is the end of the saga (hopefully you guys will confirm for me). I ordered an electrosport stator which came after 2 weeks and was faulty not only was one leg down but the crimp connector fell off one wire (that was a waste of a generator gasket), so returned the stator and waited a further 2 weeks for delivery of a replacement item and ordered another gasket. I ordered a SH775 r/r from the US which took 3 weeks to arrive. In the meantime I fabricated a strap for the SH775 r/r to fit on the original mounting panel and with the advice of Jim (posplayr) sorted a single point ground, cleaned all the connections on the wiring loom. Here are my readings with a new battery:

No electrics on battery reading 12.96V
Ignition turned on 12.38
Idling at 1100 rpm 14.5V
At 2500rpm 14.85V
At 5000rpm 15.06V
All electrics off 13.50V

Is it a thumbs up ?

[GSthou]

Well after what seems to of been an eternity waiting for new parts (over 2 months) I am hoping it is the end of the saga (hopefully you guys will confirm for me). I ordered an electrosport stator which came after 2 weeks and was faulty not only was one leg down but the crimp connector fell off one wire (that was a waste of a generator gasket), so returned the stator and waited a further 2 weeks for delivery of a replacement item and ordered another gasket. I ordered a SH775 r/r from the US which took 3 weeks to arrive. In the meantime I fabricated a strap for the SH775 r/r to fit on the original mounting panel and with the advice of Jim (posplayr) sorted a single point ground, cleaned all the connections on the wiring loom. Here are my readings with a new battery:

No electrics on battery reading 12.96V
Ignition turned on 12.38
Idling at 1100 rpm 14.5V
At 2500rpm 14.85V
At 5000rpm 15.06V
All electrics off 13.50V

Is it a thumbs up ?

Are you there my friends?