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Right cylinder not firing '82 GS300L

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    #16
    Originally posted by Hamcake View Post
    Thanks Redman -
    I've measured the left boot and it's at 10.45 kOhms. Funny that they're such high values. So unless anyone can think of a reason why these should be 10 kOhms - sounds like it'd be wise to replace them, especially since they're cheap. .
    ...
    ...
    Hum, both are about 10K.
    Hum... oh, wait.
    THat is s 2 cyclinder engine, ... it have two coils...one coil per cylinder?

    On 4 cylinder there are two coils, one coil with wire out each end to sparkplugs, and caps for those are 5K.

    Let me see what I can find.

    >>later note: Am not finding what should be on the 300.

    BUt should be printing on the side of the cap, the number 01, 05 or 10 will be the K ohms.
    If it says 05 but measures 10K, well, then it is on its way out.
    If it says 10, well, I dont know if it should be 10 or not.
    Last edited by Redman; 05-14-2020, 05:13 PM.
    http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
    Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
    GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl


    https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4

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      #17
      Hi Redman -
      Thanks for the assistance. Yup, two cylinder. One coil per cylinder.
      fbody mentioned that 10k is expected, but I may as well replace since they're cheap.
      I don't recall seeing any number printed... probably worn off.
      Yeah, not a ton of information about the 300 out there

      Worked on the wife's bike today (putting new wheel bearings in her CB100), so I didn't have a chance to make progress on the Suzuki.

      -Hamcake
      1982 GS300L
      1970 CB100
      1970 CB100

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        #18
        Well, she's running again, and with lots of power

        Most recent major things I've done:
        - Cleaned the carbs with an ultrasonic cleaner, and carb spray on the jets/tunnels
        - Replaced o-rings on float needle seats
        - Set the float heights
        - Tightened up, and cleaned battery connections (positive terminal was very loose)

        Here's the carbs after sitting in a heated ultrasonic bath with simple green solution for about 30 mins or so. If you need to clean your carbs, find a friend with one of these! I forgot to reattach the fuel/overflow/vacuum lines before I reattached the carbs, so that was finicky putting them in afterward


        The float needle seat in the right carb, was loose - which explains why I was leaking fuel out of the airbox. I've ordered some new o-rings, but it was such amazing weather that I had to do something to solve the problem. Did some creative thinking and sliced some fuel line to make homemade o-rings. Actually a very good fit, and the hardest part was cutting them straight. Only getting very minor leaking from the old float bowl gaskets and a stripped bowl drain screw.


        I think I have some more tweaking to do with the pilot screws, because the RPMs skyrocket when the choke is on -- but at least she's running! Found a very good guide for carb adjustments here: Fixing Common GS500 Carburetor Issues


        So I guess that solves this issue. I don't think it was ever an ignition issue -- it just wasn't sparking because the plugs were getting fouled. I believe the root cause was the right carburetor flooding due to the needle seat falling out.

        -Hamcake
        1982 GS300L
        1970 CB100
        1970 CB100

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