Depinning fuse box connector

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I’d really like to know how to depin this connector (remove the terminals from the block). I’ve been looking at this connector for 15 years. I got it like this. The crimp is terrible a and only about half of the strands are actually making contact on the top right red terminal where the block is broken. I’ve improvised a tool and did a little digging with it but can’t seem to release any terminals. What’s the trick? Someone has to have done this.











The connection works but I’d like to (at least) pull the terminal, snip the wire and recrimp/solder on a new terminal.

At best, ideally, I’d like to depin the whole plug, replace any other terminals that are iffy, replace the plug like new. Did a little looking on vintageconnections.com but I don’t know if I can even get this plug.

[salty_monk]

Your tool looks about right... There is a small tag that is like a barb you have to push out of the way. It takes a bit of force.

[Grimly]

I usually find the smallest one in the commonly available set of jewellers' screwdrivers will fit down the side. The cheap ones are no good because they don't have the strength, but older good quality ones are fine.

[posplayr]

The biggest problem is you appeared to ave smeared dielectric grease over the top of filthy connections. Even if you remove those pins it will do nothing unless the thing is chemically cleaned.

you could be done in 20 minutes or you can run down a rabbit hole.

[Big T]

It's pretty easy to depin
Push the wire into the connector
Slide the tool in
Pull the wire out

You need to be sure the tool is in deep enough and is not wedging the female end against the connector

I just used a piece of stiff plastic

Order a new connector from Vintage Connections

[Rich82GS750TZ]

The biggest problem is you appeared to ave smeared dielectric grease over the top of filthy connections. Even if you remove those pins it will do nothing unless the thing is chemically cleaned.

you could be done in 20 minutes or you can run down a rabbit hole.

Guilty, before you taught me better. I did smear dialectric grease in there. Attempting to atone for my sins.

I just can't seem to get the tang that's keeping the terminal in. I'll keep playing.

Can anyone point out, with circles and arrows, if necessary, exactly where to push tool in, and do I go in from the same side the wire goes in, or the open end? I've seen videos showing both, depending on the position of retaining tab/type of block, but haven't seen one exactly like this.

Thanks All.

[posplayr]

There is usually a flat portion of the contact stamped (cut) between the crimp and the portion that actually engage the other side of the contact. In this picture you can see the barb hanging down. This is not the same type but works almost the same. Once pushed in from the wire side, the barb gets caught on a ledge that prevents the pin from being pushed back out.

https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-60620-1.html?te_bu=Cor&te_type=srch&te_campaign=ggl_usa_ cor-ggl-usa-srch-selectmktg-fy20-google-feed_sma-1193_5&elqCampaignId=83716&mkwid=28StOYoW%7Cpcrid% 7C386964346943%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid% 7C%7Cproductid%7C60620-1%7Cpgrid%7C78782457763%7Cptaid%7Cpla-891875182048%7C&utm_content=28StOYoW%7Cpcrid%7C386 964346943%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cpdv%7Cc%7Cslid%7C%7C productid%7C60620-1%7Cpgrid%7C78782457763%7Cptaid%7Cpla-891875182048&gclid=CjwKCAjwztL2BRATEiwAvnALch88eEQ fTOe8IhKDc2a4DzeIAWAFYHRLlKbO59J0y0ayawe39Ve0ChoCi QcQAvD_BwE

That wire that you think has been pulled out has nothing to do with the electrical flow of current. That is the strain relief. Zip tie all the wires together and you will have compensated for that.

Use some naval jelly for 10 minutes, wash it out spray some deoxit and then coat in dielectric grease and you are done.

The path you are on you will probably permanently damage what you have left of a functioning connector and decide you need a new harness.

[posplayr]

This is a picture of a latching connector pin, but it is not obvious where the barb hook is.


http://www.vintageconnections.com/Products/Detail/51

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Use some naval jelly for 10 minutes, wash it out spray some deoxit and then coat in dielectric grease and you are done.

The path you are on you will probably permanently damage what you have left of a functioning connector and decide you need a new harness.

Will pick up some naval jelly tomorrow, clean it up and plug it back in. Thanks Jim, et al.

[Big T]

Look at your third photo
Those little slots over every wire end is where the tool slides in

[posplayr]

Will pick up some naval jelly tomorrow, clean it up and plug it back in. Thanks Jim, et al.

No more than about 10 minutes and flush it out with water. If you leave it too long it will leave a thick film.

Most of the resistance inside of the crimps.

[2BRacing]

........Can anyone point out, with circles and arrows, if necessary, exactly where to push tool in, and do I go in from the same side the wire goes in, or the open end? ........

You go in from the open end, as shown by the red marks on the photo. In post #5 Big T got the procedure spot on: first push the wire into the connector slightly to free up the latching pin; then insert the thin removal tool deep enough into the small slot to push the latching pin down; then pull on the wire to remove the terminal. If the terminal does not release easily, twist the removal tool slightly so that the latching pin is pushed down further.

Before you re-insert the terminals into the (preferably new) connector, bend the now pressed flat latching pin up again so that it will engage firmly in the connector.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

That’s what I was looking for. Thanks 2B

[Rich82GS750TZ]

So I took a little of everyone’s advice and think I did pretty good.

Once I got my tool working in the right place and got the first pin out the rest followed easily.

Cleaned off all the dialectic grease, applied the naval jelly and waited 10 minutes.




Used my improvised tool to open up the crimp on the bad one.


Washed everything with water and sprayed with Deoxit.


I clipped a fresh end and recrimped the bad one, tightened up all the female ends, plugged everything back in. Good for now. Happy with what I did.


On the re-crimped terminal: I don’t know why, just as an experiment, I tinned the wire before crimping, then heated the terminal to flow the solder after crimping. Not my greatest idea. No idea what I’m doing with solder. The factory connections are just crimped. I did use a cheap “W” crimper I bought a while ago. I need to learn how to solder if I’m going to do any more. Get a decent iron, the right solder and flux. Using a gun I really am not knowledgeable enough to really use. I did successfully reattach a new screen on a Garmin with it once. More luck than skill.

While I’m pleased with the work I did, I have ordered what I think is the right block from Vintage Connections, as well as the right pin removal tool, and bunch of male and female bullet connectors to practice on, and their crimp tool. So when I think I’m good enough with it, I’ll tackle replacing the block with new female connectors in it.

While I was on a shopping spree, I bought the Triumph RR connector For my SH775. The one I installed 2 years ago is the type that comes in pieces and you make all the connections yourself.

Since I recently took the time to rebuild the top end of my engine, strip the bike and paint the frame, I’m getting picky about wiring and other things too.

Thanks for all the help.

[Baatfam]

I tin and solder crimped connectors all the time. Good idea.