wire harness burnt out?(overcharged)

[timebombprod]

when i first got this bike about a month or so into owning it i charged this bikes battery(with it connected to the bike) with a car battery while the car was on...multiple times...didnt know anything at that point.

months later found this site and also found out that doing what i did will ruin my wiring, not sure exactly what but i did have my main fuse blow 2 or 3 times right after that, since then i havent had the last one i put in there blow up,

But now i recently found out my battery does not like to hold its charge. (DIFFERENT BATTERY FROM OVERCHARGING INCIDENT)

im gonna say the charging system is a possibility im honestly not sure what could drain it, or if it just didnt have much juice left but enough for me to ride it the few times i did about 3 or 4 weeks back, went to turn on today and battery was dead, it hasnt been connected for majority of the time it was sitting but it should've been fine i would think, i rode the bike 30 miles just around my neighborhood and i rode about 15-25 minutes each time ran fine and started fine for the time being.

connected it to a car today that was fully OFF and it started just fine which always feels good for this bike but after letting it run for like 3 or 4 minutes and trying to start it without the cables it had a very weak turn and then just buzzed once it couldn't turn anymore, pretty sure that burns the starter when it buzzes so i didnt keep doing it.

anyways is there any idea to what it is? is the whole harness fried or is there certain things that will go out when you overcharge a bike.

if its something that usually its better to just get a new harness, is there a place or site to get a custom harness done or somebody that does it, my fuel indicator has been deleted because it was rusted out and i kinda want to delete the middle of my dash, i know that brings up taking off the neutral light and gear indicator but i believe they just have aftermarket ones and id try as good as i can to make it look nice on the bike, was thinking of having the neutral light and gear indicator on top of the tachometer assembly, i really like the simple speedo and tach gauge look.

forgot to say it only had a weak turn for maybe a single turn or two.

[posplayr]

I gave up reading this paragraph after 3 line.
It would help to separate thoughts of groups of thoughts.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Woah! Slow down. Take a breath. Go back and edit your post into coherent sentences and paragraphs so people can actually read it. I did, or tried to. Am I to understand that you still have not, since buying this bike, bought a new battery for it?

Start with a new fully charged battery and do the quick test. You’ve been here long enough to have seen it mentioned. It’s in my signature. Get yourself a proper battery charger/tender.

Honestly, don’t expect anyone to read your first post until you fix it. We’re not grammar nazis, but we also don’t want to read something that looks like that.

[cowboyup3371]

Yea same here on the inability to read that.

Sounds like you did mess up the charging system at the very least. Do what Rich suggested about getting a new battery and then carefully and thoroughly perform the tests. Start budgeting for a new stator and preferably a SH775 RR.

Do you have a reliable multi-meter? If not, you can get a decent one from Harbor Freight for under $10

And please go back and break that block of words into thoughtful paragraphs

[Who Dat?]

Huh?What?Pleaseseparateitout.

Like the others, I will say that your post is VERY hard to read.

If you connected your bike to a running car to charge your battery, you killed the R/R. Plain and simple, it's time for a new one.

It makes sense to upgrade to a better R/R anyway, but now it's mandatory. Oh, you probably still need a battery, too.

Just in case you haven't seen the thousands of posts about the SH775 R/R, look into getting one. They are available on eBay, but there are also a LOT of fakes, you have to be sure to get the real deal. These are available on Polaris Ranger and RAZR models, as well as SeaDoo watercraft. Limit your search to US only and Used only. Expect to pay $50-70 for one. Sometimes they are available a bit cheaper, but be SURE to look for a picture in the listing that shows SH775BA or SH775AA on the back fin.

[1948man]

If your bike isn't charging, riding it will run the battery down. It takes juice for the plugs to fire. Take your battery to an auto parts store to have it tested (after you have properly charged it) to see it it is any good. That test isn't always perfect but it's better than nothing. If your battery is good, you need to investigate the charging system.

[850 Combat]

On two occasions I have had a starter solenoid burn out from jumping a bike with a car. The first one was a '79 CBX, which had worn out the outer alternator brush and stopped charging between Anchorage and Fairbanks, AK. The second was a GS1000G which had been sitting for some time in my dads's garage. I don't know an engineering reason why this would happen, but after it happened twice, I believe that the failures were related to the use of jumper cables hooked to a car/truck. Your problem sounds like you may not be charging at all. The main fuse failure could be a random thing, as they do fail in time anyway. You need to test the stator output, if any. The wiring harness needs to be inspected for dirty and or burned connections. They will be there, and they must be corrected.

Follow posplayr's link to a very good inspection and test plan. I have had good luck checking ohms only on the stator, but it isn't a definitive test. None of it is rocket science. You must have a known good fully charged battery. Personally I like to eliminate the main power connectors from the stator to the regulator, and from the regulator to the battery or harness. They virtually always show signs of overhearing from resistance. I believe that this resistance overheats the stator. Grounding is a bit sketchy on these bikes, especially when they are not new. A new ground from the battery to the starter solenoid mounting bolt is a good bet. The Shindengen SH775 regulator/rectifier recommended above is a great upgrade. I've upgraded about 8 or 9 Suzuke GS850, GS1000, and GS1100Gs with earlier Shindengen R/Rs from old Gold Wing 1000s and 1100s. I'll try the SH775 some day if and when one of the ones I have fails.

Only inspection can tell you if you have a burned wiring harness. I've bought those used here in the Classifieds at good prices.

[timebombprod]

Sectioned the post so its easier to look at, the battery a month old and i never charged this battery with a car that was running.

The battery was working fine when i first had it and I had no trouble starting up my bike the multiple times I did for about a week. I got to run it aswell and rode for a total of 30 miles in 3 separate rides, all rides where about 20 minutes, and everytime I went to turn the bike on it was perfectly fine.

About 3 weeks of it sitting the battery was dead enough to where I couldn't use the starter but the bikes lights all turned on. I started it with a car that was turned off and it started right up, it ran just fine unhooked from the car but if I went to shut it off and try to turn it back on by itself it would give 1 or 2 weak turns.

[posplayr]

Sectioned the post so its easier to look at, the battery a month old and i never charged this battery with a car that was running.

The battery was working fine when i first had it and I had no trouble starting up my bike the multiple times I did for about a week. I got to run it aswell and rode for a total of 30 miles in 3 separate rides, all rides where about 20 minutes, and everytime I went to turn the bike on it was perfectly fine.

About 3 weeks of it sitting the battery was dead enough to where I couldn't use the starter but the bikes lights all turned on. I started it with a car that was turned off and it started right up, it ran just fine unhooked from the car but if I went to shut it off and try to turn it back on by itself it would give 1 or 2 weak turns.

The battery is not charged. It must have lost charge for the few weeks it was sitting.

The problem with concerning your bike to a car is in starting and stopping the car engine. There is no harm if you leave the car engine off. There is something called "load dump" that occurs when you start and stop the alternator. There are high voltages and currents similar to the way an ignition coil works. Small micro electronics are more susceptible unless they are protected appropriately.

The problem is teh bikes charging system is not really powerful enough to charge a dead battery and a car battery by itself will not charge the bikes battery.

You need a batter charger that will push at least about 5 amps (not a trickle charger). Do not exceed about 15 Volts. 13.5-14.0V is good for a slower over night charge.

Once it charged do the Quick Test (see my signature) and report all the 6 numbers.

[Who Dat?]

Thanks for separating things, it's easier to read, but now you are giving us conflicting information.

Here is a quote from your most recent post:

..., the battery a month old and i never charged this battery with a car that was running. ...

Then I go back to read your first post in the thread and see this:

when i first got this bike about a month or so into owning it i charged this bikes battery(with it connected to the bike) with a car battery while the car was on...multiple times...didnt know anything at that point. ...

I will likely not visit this thread again, but those who stick around will likely appreciate correct, consistent information.

[timebombprod]

Thanks for separating things, it's easier to read, but now you are giving us conflicting information.

Here is a quote from your most recent post:

Then I go back to read your first post in the thread and see this:



I will likely not visit this thread again, but those who stick around will likely appreciate correct, consistent information.

It's a different battery, didnt directly state that. I did state it was a month old and the incident I had was months ago.

[posplayr]

when i first got this bike about a month or so into owning it i charged this bikes battery(with it connected to the bike) with a car battery while the car was on...multiple times...didnt know anything at that point.

months later found this site and also found out that doing what i did will ruin my wiring, not sure exactly what but i did have my main fuse blow 2 or 3 times right after that, since then i havent had the last one i put in there blow up,

But now i recently found out my battery does not like to hold its charge. (DIFFERENT BATTERY FROM OVERCHARGING INCIDENT)

im gonna say the charging system is a possibility im honestly not sure what could drain it, or if it just didnt have much juice left but enough for me to ride it the few times i did about 3 or 4 weeks back, went to turn on today and battery was dead, it hasnt been connected for majority of the time it was sitting but it should've been fine i would think, i rode the bike 30 miles just around my neighborhood and i rode about 15-25 minutes each time ran fine and started fine for the time being.

connected it to a car today that was fully OFF and it started just fine which always feels good for this bike but after letting it run for like 3 or 4 minutes and trying to start it without the cables it had a very weak turn and then just buzzed once it couldn't turn anymore, pretty sure that burns the starter when it buzzes so i didnt keep doing it.

anyways is there any idea to what it is? is the whole harness fried or is there certain things that will go out when you overcharge a bike.

if its something that usually its better to just get a new harness, is there a place or site to get a custom harness done or somebody that does it, my fuel indicator has been deleted because it was rusted out and i kinda want to delete the middle of my dash, i know that brings up taking off the neutral light and gear indicator but i believe they just have aftermarket ones and id try as good as i can to make it look nice on the bike, was thinking of having the neutral light and gear indicator on top of the tachometer assembly, i really like the simple speedo and tach gauge look.

forgot to say it only had a weak turn for maybe a single turn or two.

for some reason I got the impression the OP has burned wires, but I have not seen anything to show where????