changing over original Suzuki R/R to SH775

[Guest]

I'm now to this GS forum so hope I'm not repeating earlier posts. However I couldn't find my specific question being answered.

I have a 1978 GS1000E with a burned out stator and rectifier. This is the second time I've had to replace the rectifier and now the stator is also damaged. On this model GS the rectifier and voltage regulator are two separate parts.

After reading through the forum entries it looks like I might solve my charging problems by converting to a SH775 regulator rectifier from Polaris (part number 4012941). As I understand it, this SH775 would replace both the rectifier and regulator on my GS1000. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

My main question is how is the new SH775 regulator rectifier wired to replace the OEM parts? I can't find any forum entries that show how this is done. Where do the wires from the stator get connected on the SH775, and which are the output wires on the SH775 that would be wired where the old voltage regulator wires were connected?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. If there is a previous forum entry that covers this already please provide me link.

[Baatfam]

https://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?254759-SH775-Install-Diagram

[Redman]

and.... somewhere, can find the part number for a truimph wiring harness that has connectors that fit the sh775. Is something like 12 bucks.

[Steve]

Triumph harness part number is T2500676.

Baatfam gave you a link to wiring diagram. It's very easy to upgrade from a combined unit from later years, but your two-piece setup isn't much harder.

Your three stator output wires go directly to the three inputs of the 775. Easy enough, it's pretty much like your current setup.

Your current setup then goes from the rectifier to the regulator. Ignore those connections, think of the two units as a single piece. After the regulator, there is an output line that feeds the bike. THAT is the one that will connect to the output of the 775.

It is common practice here to have a single point where all your ground wires come together, including the R/R ground. The battery will also be connected there, but for simplicity, do NOT make the battery post your single-point ground.

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[Rich82GS750TZ]

Post #11 in this thread has a link to the Triumph connector. I was helping this guy do the same thing you’re doing. Problem was, I think, that the a previous owner had gotten creative with the wiring and this guy just couldn’t sort it for some reason, gave up, and put stuff back the way it was. I know that’s not the answer.

[posplayr]

I'm now to this GS forum so hope I'm not repeating earlier posts. However I couldn't find my specific question being answered.

I have a 1978 GS1000E with a burned out stator and rectifier. This is the second time I've had to replace the rectifier and now the stator is also damaged. On this model GS the rectifier and voltage regulator are two separate parts.

After reading through the forum entries it looks like I might solve my charging problems by converting to a SH775 regulator rectifier from Polaris (part number 4012941). As I understand it, this SH775 would replace both the rectifier and regulator on my GS1000. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

My main question is how is the new SH775 regulator rectifier wired to replace the OEM parts? I can't find any forum entries that show how this is done. Where do the wires from the stator get connected on the SH775, and which are the output wires on the SH775 that would be wired where the old voltage regulator wires were connected?

Thanks for any help anyone can provide. If there is a previous forum entry that covers this already please provide me link.

PM me an email for drawings.

[Utah Bob]

Thanks to each and all for your guidance and suggestions on doing this rewire from factory a R/R to a SH775 system. I was concerned how I was going to make the connections to the SH775 and the Triumph wiring harness looks like it answers that issue. I'm ordering the parts and will install it all upon receipt of them. Hopefully all goes smoothly, but I'll be back on the forum with questions if anything comes up.

Thanks again,
Utah Bob

[Utah Bob]

I finally received all the parts to do the upgrade to the SH775 system and installed the new stator but have run into a little confusion. When I removed the old stator it was indeed quite badly fried. But what is confusing is that two of the three wires coming from the old stator to the rectifier and regulator (remember, on my 1978 GS1000E the rectifier and regulator are separate units) split into two before connecting to the rectifier and regulator. These wires, the W/BL and the Y both split and one branch goes to the rectifier and the other to the regulator. Do I just twist these together and connect them to the input of the SH775?

The third wire from the stator, the G/W doesn't go the rectifier or regulator but directly to the light switch. I read why this was in other places on this forum, but do I now connect that G/W wire to the third connection on the SH775? I'm concerned that it won't then go through the light switch and the headlamp won't work. Is this not an issue? I tried to figure it out looking at the wiring diagram for the GS1000E but got lost in all of the connections.

Also, this wire was unregulated so it must have been at about 75 volts AC. Will the headlight work properly if this wire now goes through the SH775 and thus runs at a lower voltage? I assume it will since no one has said otherwise on this conversion to the SH775, but I'm curious about why the headlight will now work at the lower voltage.

Thanks for any assistance and insights you can provide.

Also, a side note. It was a bugger trying to get the 42 year old bolts off of the generator. The first three phillips head bolts were getting stripped, so I finally bought a hammer driver and it worked like a charm, even on the damaged bolts. Hope this might help someone else facing this problem with stuck bolts.

[Steve]

To avoid numerous quotes, cuts and replies, I am simply going to re-post your last post and insert my replies.

I finally received all the parts to do the upgrade to the SH775 system and installed the new stator but have run into a little confusion. When I removed the old stator it was indeed quite badly fried. But what is confusing is that two of the three wires coming from the old stator to the rectifier and regulator (remember, on my 1978 GS1000E the rectifier and regulator are separate units) split into two before connecting to the rectifier and regulator. These wires, the W/BL and the Y both split and one branch goes to the rectifier and the other to the regulator. Do I just twist these together and connect them to the input of the SH775?
If you have installed a new stator, the wires should not be split, so there is nothing to twist. However, if, by some chance, you DO have split wires, you can twist them together or cut off the extra.

The third wire from the stator, the G/W doesn't go the rectifier or regulator but directly to the light switch. I read why this was in other places on this forum, but do I now connect that G/W wire to the third connection on the SH775? I'm concerned that it won't then go through the light switch and the headlamp won't work. Is this not an issue? I tried to figure it out looking at the wiring diagram for the GS1000E but got lost in all of the connections.
If you "read why this was" in other parts of the forum, you must have only read part of it.
The headlight switch has TWO sets of contacts. One of them is for the 12 volts DC from the battery to the headlight. The other one is the AC voltage from the third leg of the stator. Removing the feed wire from that second set of contacts has nothing to do with whether the headlight works or not. Removing that wire eliminates multiple connection points that each can be a possible corrosion point.


Also, this wire was unregulated so it must have been at about 75 volts AC. Will the headlight work properly if this wire now goes through the SH775 and thus runs at a lower voltage? I assume it will since no one has said otherwise on this conversion to the SH775, but I'm curious about why the headlight will now work at the lower voltage.
Stop assuming and read my previous paragraph.


Also, a side note. It was a bugger trying to get the 42 year old bolts off of the generator. The first three phillips head bolts were getting stripped, so I finally bought a hammer driver and it worked like a charm, even on the damaged bolts. Hope this might help someone else facing this problem with stuck bolts.
Hopefully you have learned that the impact driver should be your FIRST tool, not a rescue tool.
Use it FIRST to prevent damage to the fasteners.

.

[Big T]

Steve, you missed that those aren't Phillips screws, but JIS
The proper tool is helpful
Put some purple threadlocker on the bolts when you install

[Utah Bob]

Thank you Steve and Big T for your replies and assistance.

Steve, I had a brain fart from looking at wires and wiring diagrams too long. I had installed the new stator, which indeed only has three wires, but I hadn't yet disconnected the five wires from the old stator because I wanted to be sure I knew what wires to connect where. The fact there were five wires on the old stator sent me off on a tangent and got me confused. I realized this as I was lying in bed after making the post you responded to. Today I went ahead and pulled all the old wires out and connected the three wires from the new stator to the SH775, and I connected the outputs of the SH775 to ground and the main harness. I fired up the bike and everything appears to running smoothly. I'm getting a charge voltage of about 15 volts to the battery at around 3000 rpm. The headlight works fine. Everything is just hooked up loose so I couldn't take it out on the road or get it up to high rpms, but I'm encouraged that it will all work after I actually solder the connections and mount the SH775 to the bike frame (it looks like it will be a tight fit). I do have the two loose wires from the old system, the G/W that went directly from the stator to the light switch and the W/R that went from the light switch to the old rectifier, but it appears these now serve no function and can be capped.

Big T, I didn't even know about JIS heads on bolts. I've always called everything with the X head a phillips. Thanks for the enlightenment. I did use threadlock on all of the bolts inside of the stator.

[Steve]

Steve, you missed that those aren't Phillips screws, but JIS
The proper tool is helpful
Put some purple threadlocker on the bolts when you install

Very true, but whatever they are, they don't last long on my bikes. They get replaced with stainless socket-head bolts, which are also known as "Allen head" bolts.

I have also found that there are no JIS bits for an impact driver. Setting either a #2 or #3 Phillips bit that comes with the driver into the screw head, then giving it a good whack with a hammer will set the tool and possibly deform the head of the screw a bit. Turning the driver in the correct direction then giving another good whack with a hammer will break the screw free. After removal, it gets pitched, so it doesn't matter if the head got deformed into a quasi-Phillips shape.

Where does purple threadlocker rate, compared to red or blue?

I'm getting a charge voltage of about 15 volts to the battery at around 3000 rpm. The headlight works fine. Everything is just hooked up loose ...

Tighten up your connections, see if the charge voltage gets below 15. Should try to keep it under 14.5.

... I'm encouraged that it will all work after I actually solder the connections and mount the SH775 to the bike frame (it looks like it will be a tight fit). ...

If you solder those connections, you will regret that when you have to work on the system again. Yeah, there are those who say that once you do this, you will never have to do anything again, but there is ALWAYS something that might need to be removed, which will also require the stator wires to be removed, too. It is MUCH easier to separate a connector than it is to unwrap, unsolder, re-solder, then re-wrap your wires.

.

[Noreg]

Very true, but whatever they are, they don't last long on my bikes. They get replaced with stainless socket-head bolts, which are also known as "Allen head" bolts.

I have also found that there are no JIS bits for an impact driver. Setting either a #2 or #3 Phillips bit that comes with the driver into the screw head, then giving it a good whack with a hammer will set the tool and possibly deform the head of the screw a bit. Turning the driver in the correct direction then giving another good whack with a hammer will break the screw free. After removal, it gets pitched, so it doesn't matter if the head got deformed into a quasi-Phillips shape.

https://www.gofastinnovations.com/st...1-4-p112701915 <- Like these? Sadly mine were missing so I am still awaiting shipment.

Is there allen head bolts for the round covers on the engine? Or the ones for the lights?

[Big T]

Steve et Al
Purple thread locker is below blue in strength, so it's perfect for bolts you don't want to come out by themselves, but have no real load on them.

I use it on vitually every fastener on my dual sport s

[Steve]

https://www.gofastinnovations.com/st...1-4-p112701915 <- Like these? Sadly mine were missing so I am still awaiting shipment.

Is there allen head bolts for the round covers on the engine? Or the ones for the lights?

Yes, those are some good JIS drivers. However, with your location, do you have Pozi-Driv fasteners? Those will work well, too.

Allen-had bolts (more-correctly called socket head bolts) are available for just about anything. Find a hardware supplier in your area to see what they have to offer. I get most of my hardware from Bolt Depot. Not sure what their shipping policy would be, but it won't hurt to contact them to see if they will ship to you.

.