Headlight upgrade

[carpetbagger]

Anyone recommend a plug and play aftermarket headlight? 7" for a 80 GS1000L? Thanks.

[Nessism]

Easiest thing to do is install a new high brightness H4 bulb in your existing housing. https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Silv...omotive&sr=1-7

The ultimate performance will come from a Truck Lite LED assembly. https://www.amazon.com/Truck-Lite-27...k-lite+phase+7

[Brendan W]

Lack of brightness can be down to voltage loss. In addition to getting a better bulb you could check the voltage across the bulb pins when switched on.
Ideally no less than a volt below the battery terminal voltage.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

There are pages and pages of threads on the forum regarding LED headlights. Here’s just one, but very thorough. I have a Truck-Lite and I’m very happy with it.

[rphillips]

If you are disciplined enough to use them safely, For yrs. I've used H4: 55w/100w, "Off rd. use only" I realize they are not to be used on public roads when on "Hi" but they really light things up. "Lo" is the same as orig. If you switch from HI to Lo like you should anyway, you won't blind anybody & nobody, but you, will ever know you have them.

[Noreg]

If you are disciplined enough to use them safely, For yrs. I've used H4: 55w/100w, "Off rd. use only" I realize they are not to be used on public roads when on "Hi" but they really light things up. "Lo" is the same as orig. If you switch from HI to Lo like you should anyway, you won't blind anybody & nobody, but you, will ever know you have them.

What brand is the bulb?

I rarely need the light (its not really dark when I ride the most here in the frozen north), but if Im going south I might be more aware of the limits of my current light.

I am sceptical of extra lights (a single headlight makes it easier for cars to identify me as a bike). In Norway I believe I can have as many extra high beams as Id like as long as its symetrical (not entirely updated on the bike rules), but Im worried that could make an inexperienced rider think Im a slow tractor far away.

Is the heat an issue?

[rphillips]

Here in U.S. Hella part # H83140141. Norway? I wouldn't have a clue. Good luck.

[Brendan W]

On the subject of 100W bulbs. There will be an extra 3A or thereabouts and the switches and plugs had better be up to the task.
For me this would be relay time on a 40 year old machine.
Then there is the heat in the bucket?

[Steve]

Anyone recommend a plug and play aftermarket headlight? 7" for a 80 GS1000L? Thanks.

Unless you have changed the stock headlight, you do not have a 7" light on your L.

The measurement is not across the outside of the housing, it is across the edge of the glass. I think you will find it to be just over 6".

The BEST way to get more light ahead of you is to use an LED headlight assembly. Unfortunately, there are none that come in that size. You will have to do some changes to the bike to accept the 7" light assembly. You will need to change the entire headlight bucket AND the mounting arms that hold the bucket to the forks. That requires removing the forks from the bike. It's not that bad of a job and the results will be worth it.

Of course, while you have the forks off would be the perfect time to service them with new springs, seals and oil.

Simply replacing the stock halogen bulb with a brighter bulb is questionable. Partly because of the extra load on the electrical system, but also because the brighter high beam isn't used nearly as much as the low beam, which is the stock brightness. Then there is the pattern. I don't know if you have the same crappy pattern that we have here or the better E-Code, but a brighter bulb won't change the pattern. However, an LED replacement bulb CAN change the pattern but it's usually not for the better. The best way to go is with a complete lens/reflector assembly that is designed with an LED source. Many here (including me) have switched to the TruckLite brand Model 27270C. Yes, it is expensive, but if you do much riding at night, it won't be long before you ask yourself why you waited so long to make the change.

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[rphillips]

Wondering if there is a "GOOD" reason an LED light can't be designed to work properly with the orig. reflectors? Really a shame they're not just plug & play. Yes, no doubt, 100w will draw more current than 65w, guess I've been lucky as in 40+ yrs. I haven't had any problems "YET". For the LO beam folks, these lights are available in 100w/80w (LO) & 100w/90w (LO), but blinding the people you are meeting on the hwy. doesn't seem like a very good idea. Just say'in.

[Steve]

Wondering if there is a "GOOD" reason an LED light can't be designed to work properly with the orig. reflectors?

The biggest problem (at least until recently) has been that the size of the LED emitters is considerably larger than the tungsten filament, which puts the source of the light outside the focal point of the reflector. There is also a problem that the LED emitters don't shine in all directions, meaning that you need to have more of them, which will be mounted in a different place, which will also be out of the focal point. Some of them will get close, but won't have the razor-sharp cut-off at the top of the beam pattern, like it should be.

For the lights that are designed with LEDs as their source, the reflector is designed around the LEDs, so they can shape it any way it needs to be.

Several years ago, there was a bulb that was being recommended. I got one and installed it. All it was was a really bright candle. Absolutely NO pattern and certainly NO projection down the road. The light output was much like a Coleman lantern, it was EVERYWHERE. The pattern on the Truck Lite is near-perfect, something you are not going to get with a conversion.

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[carpetbagger]

Will the 27270C fit without modification? The existing stock headlight is working correctly, and I don't do much riding at night. The forks are also pretty fresh already with new Sonic springs etc. I mainly want to be more visible in the daytime, and don't mind the $150, but I'd rather stay stock than change the bucket and all. Thanks for all the help.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Steve already answered your question in post 9

[Steve]

And I'll answer it again.

IF, mind you, that is a big IF you have a 7" headlight, which the 1980 1000GL did NOT, there is no modification. Measure across the glass, not the outside of the chrome housing. In fact, the chrome housing would be a big giveaway that you do not have a 7" light.

If you find that you still have the stock 6 1/2" light, you will need a new headlight bucket, along with the mounting ears that hold the bucket to the forks.

Once you have a 7" headlight bucket, it's just a matter of a lot of fiddly screw turning to undo all the fasteners to actually change the light. The light will project a bit through the chrome trim of the bucket, but it fits.

The LED light will enhance your conspicuity in daytime riding. It is a whiter light that matches more of the lights that are seen on vehicles now. If you use the high beam, it is positively dazzling, almost to the point of blinding, so use it sparingly.

Just in case you missed it at the beginning of this post, make SURE you have a 7" headlight now. My bet is that you don't, especially since your signature says "1980 GS1000GLT No mods." (emphasis mine)

By the way, there is some redundancy in that signature. The "T" is Suzuki's code for the 1980 model year. You can say you have an '80 GS1000GL or that you have a GS1000GLT, but there is no need to say both. The only people that even know what the "T" means are the members of this forum and the parts monkeys at the dealership, and I'm not so sure about them.

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[carpetbagger]

OK, It's finally starting to sink into my thick skull. I'll just stick with stock for now as it is working as designed. I'll worry about it again if and when the bulb finally blows. Thanks for the help.