No Blinkers

[Gorminrider]

So the brown wire from the signal relay to the r/r is the source input(12v dc)

My guess would be its a Honda R/R with the sense wire. PO tapped into the signals for power. Connect the green/orange to the flasher unit along with the brown on the one side and viola. Of course as I said, thats just a guess but seems logical(at least to me).

Yes it might be. Perhaps the bare orange/green got pulled out of the spade-connector shared with that Brown.

But without knowing what R/R it is, it's hard to be sure. If it's a bad Chinesium Honda one (6 connections) it could already be blown. The ground, sense and output wires could all be jacked into the wrong places too.

"Is the battery charging?" is my question before worrying about the signals in this issue.

Hot fuses? Heat always involves current ...ie WATTS=V*A just like a baseboard heater... where the current isn't high enough to blow fuses, it's usually from the crimped connectors..broken strands, loose screws holding them AND Take the fusebox off and look underneath for trouble.

I'm Glad you have the fuses correct now but (gloomy thought) it may be too late if the P/Os over-capacity 25amps have melted things elsewhere.

[MCADDICT]

The battery is charging. When the brown wire has no voltage on it the voltage at the battery increases . So I did some searching on the hot fuses and found that voltage drop causes heat, so i'll check for voltage drop across fuses and connectors.

[Gorminrider]

Voltage drop is an indication of "resistance". If you draw a lot of amps through a high resistance, you produce heat. And yes, a voltage drop across those connections should be 0.
But the fuse,connectors and wire and the actual intended loads are all components of a circuit. The sum of all the voltage drops in the circuit = the supply. (the battery and charging system)

An example of drawing a lot of amps through a faulty connection would be:
A headlight draws 5 amps. Ideally, tested at it's connector, it shows the same Voltage drop as the power supply...However, In the same circuit are switches, connections and wire. If ANY of these "extras" show a VD- a resistance-, they will be consuming power as heat. Their VD summed with the headlight's VD always equal the supply's Voltage. So, the headlight is dimmer and the switch/connector, or wire is warm to hot... Especially so as a low resistance thing like a headlight looks almost like a short to a frayed wire, corroded switch etc.. That's why your fuses aren't blowing. It's not really a short circuit on them... but there's enough current passing through the fault to create heat.

[MCADDICT]

Thanks for the explanation. All the fuses are hot so Im thinking it has to be a condition common to all the circuits. This is all new to me ......learning as Im going. I have several bikes but never had electrical gremlins like this one !

[Steve]

Need to make sure terminology is correct so you might understand function a bit better.

So the brown wire from the signal relay to the r/r is the source input(12v dc) .

It's not quite and "input". It is a "sense" wire that should be connected to a switched power source. That orange/green wires IS your switched power source, so the brown wire should be connected to it at the turn signal flasher.

3blue are 12v ac input, ...

Please measure the voltage as part of your troubleshooting. You should have about 75v AC, not 12.

the red is 12vdc supply, ...

True, except it is the R/R that is supplying, so it should be labeled "12v DC OUTPUT".

black ground

This is true, IF it is a Honda R/R, which was a common upgrade.

... and brown (source)12vdc input.

It's not a "source" of anything, it's a SENSE wire. The output of the R/R can change a bit, based on what voltage is SENSED by this wire. That is why disconnecting that wire will increase voltage, as what it senses is lower than desired.

.

[Gorminrider]

Thanks for the explanation. All the fuses are hot so Im thinking it has to be a condition common to all the circuits. This is all new to me ......learning as Im going. I have several bikes but never had electrical gremlins like this one !

Indeed, it can be a booger figuring out the wiring diagram on a Perfect bike, let alone one that's been modified badly. I'm trying to think what could heat up all of the fuses...I'd definitely unbolt the fusepanel and have a look underneath to negate any chance of the + "bus"* touching the frame which is ground. ...

Also, be careful and take note of the "auxiliary" connection at the bottom of the panel .It is the ONLY place a ground wire might be connected to the panel but is NOT required...


*"+ bus" is ONE side of the fusepanel where the orange wire is connected to...the other fuses then distribute to other circuits on the other side of the fusepanel

Here's a diagram from a GS650 for JUST turn signals but it shows the oem fusebox too. You havent said if your bike has a cancel circuit -this 650 does not so it's simpler. Click the thumbnail and it should show up larger.

07-Turn.jpg

[Steve]

A '79 1000E <should> have cancelling signals, but they were different than anything produced in '80 and onward.

The '79 1000E and 850G had auto-cancel systems that were VERY different. To the point that if yours does not work any more, it is quicker, cheaper and easier to just change to separate flasher units for each side and cancel them manually.

.

[MCADDICT]

It does have working self cancelling signal. I'm going to replace the fuse panel. Did a search and found a lot of members use generic type panels. How do you modify the fuse panels so you have a separate circuit for battery power to feed the ignition switch ?

[Steve]

One way (the cheaper one) is to use a separate fuse as the main, then have the new panel powered by the ignition switch.

Another way (cost is about $60) is to get a box from Eastern Beaver. It has two unswitched fuse slots and six fused slots. That allows one for your main fuse and another could be for a battery tender or heated gear. The six fused slots allow for accessories that you might want to add.

.

[Gorminrider]

The cheapie panels I've used need the "bus" to be built as shared connections to the orange wire....
You can use little loops to join them together on one side or something more elegant....