No spark on #2

[timebombprod]

Was doing spark tests just to make sure all the plugs work right, and noticed that #2 was giving no spark at all, I put on a different spark plug to make sure that the plug wasnt the issue and it wasnt.

#4 works so I'm not sure if i can rule out the coilpack or not.

How does one go about replacing the coil wires on a GS? I see that they're glued in place and not sure if they're internally connected or not.

[timebombprod]

My mistake, 2 & 3 go together, either way only 2 doesnt work but the rest do.

[timebombprod]

How are accel coilpack wires? Are 8.8mm what i should be looking for

[Brendan W]

See if you can swap over the leads from 2 to 3 and see if the missing spark moves.
Corrosion in the last 1/4" of the HT lead can cause problems and is cured by cutting back to clean core.
If that test is negative then swap the end caps on the leads.

[timebombprod]

See if you can swap over the leads from 2 to 3 and see if the missing spark moves.
Corrosion in the last 1/4" of the HT lead can cause problems and is cured by cutting back to clean core.
If that test is negative then swap the end caps on the leads.

I've had to do it before a couple times and I've had success (cutting back on the leads) but that success keeps coming short after a while. The rubber insulator is pretty dry and cruddy aswell.

How do I switch them? And if they're able to be switched, does that mean they're able to be replaced?


The caps are also new, and recently tested for the resistance, all are good.

[Brendan W]

I've had to do it before a couple times and I've had success (cutting back on the leads) but that success keeps coming short after a while. The rubber insulator is pretty dry and cruddy aswell.

How do I switch them? And if they're able to be switched, does that mean they're able to be replaced?

Pull the leads off the two plugs only and switch them over. They fire together, no drama.
Running in the dark is a good way to see HT spark leakage. If for example a plug cap is open cct the spark will find ways of jumping from the lead to the head.
Damp or dirty leads will allow spark to leak and this is what WD-40 was invented for.
Your leads may or may not have the outer sleeve that slides over the plug cap to keep water out.

[timebombprod]

Pull the leads off the two plugs only and switch them over. They fire together, no drama.
Running in the dark is a good way to see HT spark leakage. If for example a plug cap is open cct the spark will find ways of jumping from the lead to the head.
Damp or dirty leads will allow spark to leak and this is what WD-40 was invented for.
Your leads may or may not have the outer sleeve that slides over the plug cap to keep water out.

Are leads the ends of the wire, sorry new terminology

[Brendan W]

Are leads the ends of the wire, sorry new terminology

My bad
Swap over the two HT leads at the spark plugs, 2&3.
The idea is that the fault lies either in the lead itself or the cap.
If you can make the dead spark move you are on to something.

[timebombprod]

My bad
Swap over the two HT leads at the spark plugs, 2&3.
The idea is that the fault lies either in the lead itself or the cap.
If you can make the dead spark move you are on to something.

Wait are the leads the two wire connections on the coilpack? If I'm correct I'd only really have to test #3 for the dead spark and if it still has spark to it, than the problem is running from the coilpack wire to the plug cap, somewhere in that area.

[Brendan W]

Wait are the leads the two wire connections on the coilpack? If I'm correct I'd only really have to test #3 for the dead spark and if it still has spark to it, than the problem is running from the coilpack wire to the plug cap, somewhere in that area.

No. The HT, high tension, leads are the fat leads from the coil to the spark plugs. If the HT lead and or cap are faulty the fault will move when you swap the HT leads over.

[timebombprod]

No. The HT, high tension, leads are the fat leads from the coil to the spark plugs. If the HT lead and or cap are faulty the fault will move when you swap the HT leads over.

Oh, gotta remove mine and the glue sealing them in place, guessing it's original.

I did however, see spark coming from the lead without the cap being on from #2. I really think its a bad connection from the lead to the cap, I've been struggling getting the cap to twist in the lead properly seems like the rubber is not so malleable. I've also cut the thing so darn short because there was plenty of tears throughout the rubber insulation.

[timebombprod]

I guess my next question is what's some good leads to buy (even though I dont need them...)? Gonna get 2 new caps aswell and make sure I dont use the cap that was on #2. I ordered 4 inner caps a little back and gonna get two outer caps just to make it look cleaner.

Smart? Eh. Gonna work though? Ye.

Edit: ended up getting a bundle of two outer caps and lead wire, not the best route if I was trying to save money but I'm just trying to get it all done. Got some more lead wire separately aswell.

[salty_monk]

Put new leads on. Yours must be shot if you’re already showing splits further down.... accell or dyna leads will work. You can sometimes get the stock ones out. There is a spike behind. Shove the new wire in and silicon around to Hold it (or epoxy if you never want to replace again).

it’s usually about 50/50 as to whether you can successfully get them out. There are threads here on the process with pics somewhere.

[timebombprod]

Put new leads on. Yours must be shot if you’re already showing splits further down.... accell or dyna leads will work. You can sometimes get the stock ones out. There is a spike behind. Shove the new wire in and silicon around to Hold it (or epoxy if you never want to replace again).

it’s usually about 50/50 as to whether you can successfully get them out. There are threads here on the process with pics somewhere.

Have new leads, still having the issue, guy who was working on our back porch has a few old bikes and ended up helping me out, I have continuity everywhere except he wasnt able to check the ignition system and the wires connecting to it. The negative wire hopefully is the issue but I'm gonna find out tonight or tomorrow out of town right now. Had to get a test light and also ordered a clymer manual. Right now the negative sides of the coils arent sparking


The old leads were glued in and super brittle so I took a grinder and took off some of the plastic on the top to get to the rubber that wouldn't come out, could've done something else but it's fine for me.

[chuck hahn]

I have had wires without a cap on arc to the engine and put cap on and plug wont fire. End result was the resistor fried. Unscrew the brass gripper thing..its slotted for a screwdriver. Dump out the guts and replace the resistor with a piece of steel rod or other conductive rod comparable in thicknss. cut to length ond reinstall guts into cap. NOTE that caps 2 and 3 ae a spring. Spring goes in first then replacement blank. Screw in the gripper thing. If this solves it i suggest you eliminate all the resistors and never have the problem again.