New coils, new ignition, run off electricity

[timebombprod]

Not sure what it'd be called, but I installed new coilpacks, and a new ignition replacement, correctly ofcourse, and I went to do the timing and I ran into an issue. Anytime I get the testlight to go off, i get a spark at where the coilpack mounts, it's only on one coil, and the coil does touch the mount but there is rubber stopping it from getting any sort of connection to electricity, also when I get the test light to go off, my lights get brighter.

Took a video, you cant see the spark anymore because I fixed a spot that the rubber tore, but you still do hear the spark, and also the lights getting brighter.

https://youtu.be/8KuDmVQtHws

[Killer2600]

Are both coils connected to properly installed spark plugs? That could be a reason for sparks in unexpected places.

The fluctuations in your lights is expected. When the coil is charging it's drawing power from the battery which pulls voltage down. When it stops and a spark occurs (the coil discharges) it's not drawing power so your lights get brighter. Similarly, you'll find your tail lights get brighter when you disconnect your headlight.

[timebombprod]

Are both coils connected to properly installed spark plugs? That could be a reason for sparks in unexpected places.

The fluctuations in your lights is expected. When the coil is charging it's drawing power from the battery which pulls voltage down. When it stops and a spark occurs (the coil discharges) it's not drawing power so your lights get brighter. Similarly, you'll find your tail lights get brighter when you disconnect your headlight.

Not connected to plugs just sitting freely right now, gonna swap wires ane see if it's a coil or not

[timebombprod]

Okay so with plugs connected the spark does go to the plug now, still cant get the test light to go off for 2 and 3 (right side coil) and with spark plugs in that coil I cant get a spark to go off with just using the advance but if I press my starter they will spark

[Killer2600]

still cant get the test light to go off for 2 and 3 (right side coil) and with spark plugs in that coil I cant get a spark to go off with just using the advance but if I press my starter they will spark

That's normal and expected, the coils fire 180° apart. If the spark is strong, sounds like you have a working system.

[timebombprod]

Should coilpacks get warm while just having bike in the on position and killswitch on but not running? Never noticed so never asked.

I do have spark when I plug them in but when plugged out it does run off somewhere on the coilpack mount just never had seen that.

[timebombprod]

That's normal and expected, the coils fire 180° apart. If the spark is strong, sounds like you have a working system.

Yes just needs timing, and the carbs back on. Gave them to a ship for fuel level adjustment after the rebuild (didnt number floats) and it's been a whopping 5 days for an hour of work lol. If I knew that, I would've brought them to the guy thatd do it for half as much and the same amount of waiting time.

[timebombprod]

Uodate,Update, hot not warm, still can touch.

Right side coil is hotter than left side I noticed

[Killer2600]

Uodate,Update, hot not warm, still can touch.

Right side coil is hotter than left side I noticed

For this reason, you don't want to leave the ignition ON when the bike isn't running. Power is continuously flowing while the coil is charging, the only time power isn't flowing is when the ignition/ignitor/points breaks the ground side in order to spark/discharge the coil.

[timebombprod]

For this reason, you don't want to leave the ignition ON when the bike isn't running. Power is continuously flowing while the coil is charging, the only time power isn't flowing is when the ignition/ignitor/points breaks the ground side in order to spark/discharge the coil.

Okay, well that's good it's not a actual problem, been trying to set timing so I have to do that. Having a bit of issue getting timing set but it should be figured out.


Light stays on a good bit after passing the T mark, but is fine before F mark.

[Killer2600]

Light stays on a good bit after passing the T mark, but is fine before F mark.

How long your test light stays on is irrelevant. What you are trying to accomplish is having the light come on at the exact moment the timing mark lines up when rotating the engine in it's normal direction of rotation (clockwise). The light shouldn't come on any earlier (before the mark) or delay coming on (come on after the mark is passed). The better way to do this is with a timing light, but these days that's not a common tool in peoples arsenal and if you take your time to get the test light method as spot on as you can then you're usually going to be close enough without having to obtain a tool to verify dynamic (running engine) timing.

[timebombprod]

Made a video of what's going on, cant get the light to turn off nomatter what o adjust, seeing if theres a quick solution to this as in somebodies dealt with it before and knows what to move where

https://youtu.be/M8ye06WDbDk

[timebombprod]

Using video to reassure it's fine what it's doing killer

[Killer2600]

Made a video of what's going on, cant get the light to turn off nomatter what o adjust, seeing if theres a quick solution to this as in somebodies dealt with it before and knows what to move where

https://youtu.be/M8ye06WDbDk

Don't worry about when the test light turns back off. That's determined by the design of the dyna S pickup and for all intents and purposes not a concern of the installer. As for the "full" mark, it's actually the "fire" mark which is when the spark plug will fire when there is no advance. T is top dead center. When following the installation instructions for the dyna s and setting timing using the full advance mark you must be sure to hold the rotor in the full advanced position (fully rotated against the advance spring). If you don't do this your timing will be off.

Again just go by the installation directions of the dyna and adjust it so that your test light comes on right as the crank hits the full advance timing mark (with the rotor held in the full advance position). Don't worry about when the light goes back off after initially coming on. To clarify the dyna s instructions if you adjust the timing right your test light should go on or off as you rotate the crank clockwise and counter-clockwise AT the timing mark. Clockwise it should go from off to on as you hit the timing mark and if you go back the other way it should turn back off as you hit the timing mark.

Hope this helps.

PS: I want to add, your youtube video looks like it's right. The only more verification you could do is instead of just rotating the rotor between full advance and something less than full advance is to hold the rotor in the full advance and move the crank back and forth around the full advance timing mark as detailed in the above paragraph. But as is I'd say you have it spot on or close enough for anything that's not going to space.

[timebombprod]

Don't worry about when the test light turns back off. That's determined by the design of the dyna S pickup and for all intents and purposes not a concern of the installer. As for the "full" mark, it's actually the "fire" mark which is when the spark plug will fire when there is no advance. T is top dead center. When following the installation instructions for the dyna s and setting timing using the full advance mark you must be sure to hold the rotor in the full advanced position (fully rotated against the advance spring). If you don't do this your timing will be off.

Again just go by the installation directions of the dyna and adjust it so that your test light comes on right as the crank hits the full advance timing mark (with the rotor held in the full advance position). Don't worry about when the light goes back off after initially coming on. To clarify the dyna s instructions if you adjust the timing right your test light should go on or off as you rotate the crank clockwise and counter-clockwise AT the timing mark. Clockwise it should go from off to on as you hit the timing mark and if you go back the other way it should turn back off as you hit the timing mark.

Hope this helps.

PS: I want to add, your youtube video looks like it's right. The only more verification you could do is instead of just rotating the rotor between full advance and something less than full advance is to hold the rotor in the full advance and move the crank back and forth around the full advance timing mark as detailed in the above paragraph. But as is I'd say you have it spot on or close enough for anything that's not going to space.

Awesome, sounds pretty promising from what you could tell and I will be checking if the light goes off if moved in a different spot, and also spinning it the opposite way. Hopefully all is well and I can be back on by this week, thanks for the help!