Well...

[timebombprod]

Have you fixed that Ground- wire situation Ian ?

Well, I've tested for the batteries voltage at the spot and it did read the same voltage , so would it be okay? Testing with positive meter on positive battery post and negative meter on that little bracket.

It does look like it was designed to be a frame ground...sorry if I'm saying it seems valid. I guess I'll move it somewhere else and see if that helps with the voltage loss

[grcamna2]

Well, I've tested for the batteries voltage at the spot and it did read the same voltage , so would it be okay? Testing with positive meter on positive battery post and negative meter on that little bracket.

It does look like it was designed to be a frame ground...sorry if I'm saying it seems valid. I guess I'll move it somewhere else and see if that helps with the voltage loss

Ian,remember what I said in posts #45 & 47,to have your bike Solidly Grounded is Very important.I would also consider getting your battery load-tested at a local auto-parts store.

[timebombprod]

Ian,remember what I said in posts #45 & 47,to have your bike Solidly Grounded is Very important.I would also consider getting your battery load-tested at a local auto-parts store.

Gonna get my battery tested, and sand the paint off that spot ensuring theres no interference, and have a washer blocking the ground from touching that rubber.

Just having a hard time thinking that is the culprit when I've been able to get rid of that short beforehand, I really think it sources from my ignition. I noticed that when I've replaced my plugs (a while back) before it had dissapeared, and my bike was loads quieter at idle. Unfortunately the next morning when i went to start the bike up it sounded totally different and had a loping sound. It's just a very odd situation for me. I understand how important a ground is and I've made sure to always put the ground back in the same spot it was prior if no problems were being caused. This stupid short came out of nowhere.


Seems that when the bike is shut off after an initial replacement, that's when things screw up

[grcamna2]

Ian,remember what I said in posts #45 & 47,to have your bike Solidly Grounded is Very important.I would also consider getting your battery load-tested at a local auto-parts store.

I'm only trying to help you.That place you have those Ground wires attached under the battery,on the battery box is Not Adequate and Will cause problems for your whole bike.I won't post to this thread anymore until you attach those Ground straps to a solid Ground as has been recommended:you don't want to accept my help and that feels insulting to me.

[timebombprod]

I'm only trying to help you.That place you have those Ground wires attached under the battery,on the battery box is Not Adequate and Will cause problems for your whole bike.I won't post to this thread anymore until you attach those Ground straps to a solid Ground as has been recommended:you don't want to accept my help and that feels insulting to me.

I apologize I know it feels insulting, I'll let you know when its moved.

[pdqford]

I noticed that these fuses can only be tested with the key on. Noticed that the power loss on the fuse input went down a volt when i took the fuse out, I'll be getting a new one to see if theres a

You can only measure a voltage drop when the circuit is LOADED and current is flowing.

(That is the problem with using an ohm meter to find poor connections in a circuit. The ohm meter loads the circuit with milliamperes of current. Any old lousy connection can pass milliamperes of current just fine. But load the circuit with live current and those coils may draw 5 amps of current. Poor connections and switch contacts can’t pass that mush current and they begin to generate heat, which adds more resistance. It’s voltage drops that generate the heat.)

You can measure the voltage drop across that ground that grcamma2 has identified. Just load up the circuit that uses that ground and measure the drop from the ground wire eyelet and the negative battery post. That will tell you how much voltage is being dropped through that particular ground path.

Just remember a circuit will drop ALL the voltage available. In your coil circuit, the more voltage that is dropped on the coil’s power circuit, and the more voltage that is dropped on the coil’s ground circuit, the less voltage the coil has to play with.

[pdqford]

Oh, and on those glass fuses, pull them out and polish the metal ends. Then polish the clips that hold the metal fuse ends.
And flip the fuse block over and see if there are any questionable solders on the back side of the fuse block.

[timebombprod]

I bought new fuses, unfortunately the battery wont take a charge at oriellys, gotta wait till tomorrow to do anymore testing. Will be cleaning stuff up.

[timebombprod]

I dont know if this means anything but I noticed when I tried to put a 15amp fuse in the ignition fuse, my. Lights turned on. Just took it off the fuse wasnt even in, I was trying to see if a new fuse would help with the voltage loss.

[timebombprod]

It does look pretty clean in the fusebox, I'll be cleaning some connecting spots but theres not much to be done, I cleaned all areas that fuses go into and also noticed my power source fuse was a 20amp.... well it's supposed to be a 10, so I hope when I have a 10 amp in there it doesnt blow.


Snapchat-970154055.jpg

[timebombprod]

Update on voltages, pretty happy with it except the fuses that are connected to the killswitch.

Battery post is always gonna be positive and the red meter lead for all these tests


Battery post to fusebox .14v

Battery post to power source fuse .14v

Battery post to main fuse .16v

Heres where my noobiness comes in, I had the killswitch on when I had almost 3 volts but did shave off about .4 of a volt.

Battery post to ignition fuse 1.35v

Battery post to turn signal fuse 1.57v

Battery post to head fuse 1.42v

Battery post to ignition wire connection ( second end of the plug with all these fuse wires) 1.41v

Total loss to the coils from battery post. 3.78v

So I guess I should checkout the killswitch, to verify, that's the ignition switch right?

[timebombprod]

Snapchat-1557711244.jpg

Losing a whole volt here at the switch itself, where to clean? I'll clean this metal contact off here but not sure if that's what I should be.

Gonna check the plugs I've never touched they are very grimy on the outside, hoping the same on the inside so it will bring back lots of voltage.

[timebombprod]

I dont think these are the culprit at all....

Snapchat-1280000495.jpg

[timebombprod]

Now what really sucks is the plastic cube holding all those tiny connectors split in half when getting pulled apart.

Well, I took pictures and videos of the connections on the cube to make not of which ones go to which, so tomorrow they will be cleaned and if finished and nothing else goes wrong, possibly connected and we will see howmuch voltage I get back

[pdqford]

So I guess I should checkout the killswitch, to verify, that's the ignition switch right?

No.
I don’t have GS650, but on my GS, the ignition switch is where you put the ignition key.
The kill switch is a button on my right hand grip that will shut off the coils when pressed.

Also, shouldn’t your ignition fuse be 10 amps and your main fuse be 15 amps?

Better double check with your wiring diagram.