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So, after it going to the ignition, I called dynatek for a resistance test and they gave me one to do, and it passes the test, aswell as the dyna coils. Guy said hes gonna send me out some stuff to do the coil relay mod, and after cleaning all I can without replacing and resoldring, its gonna be the way I goIan
1982 GS650GLZ
1982 XS650
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Originally posted by timebombprod View PostSo, after it going to the ignition, I called dynatek for a resistance test and they gave me one to do, and it passes the test, aswell as the dyna coils. Guy said hes gonna send me out some stuff to do the coil relay mod, and after cleaning all I can without replacing and resoldring, its gonna be the way I go
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Originally posted by DucatiDave View PostI was only getting around 10V at the coils with Dyna S and Dyna coils. Did the coil relay (piece of cake) and have 12+V constantly. Do it and your problems will disappear.
I do have a question maybe you could help, I've opened my harness and was looking for the splice where the coil wires and killswitch wire meet. Ofcourse I found it but I was wondering do i disconnect the coil wires from the splice and only have the killswitch wire on there, and have that wire where I hook my relay to for the killswitch?Ian
1982 GS650GLZ
1982 XS650
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Follow the instructions here and it will all make sense: http://members.dslextreme.com/users/...relay_mod.html
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Having trouble, hooked up the coil relay mod correctly, like the diagram I'll provide, I took a video showing the issue. Hoping it's something dumb or just the relay maybe being busted.
No voltage to my coil wires whatsoever.
Screenshot_20210510-210109_Chrome.jpg
Heres the diagram I've used.
And heres the video showing my setup and also showing the voltage readings I get.
One thing i noticed looking at my diagram is the orange and white wire i hooked up to that had the splice for the coilpacks also has the starter button wire hooked up to it. The killswitch has two orange and white wires on it. One goes straight to the fusebox and the other connects to the starter button and now runs to the relay. Could this be where I messed up? And ifso, where should i hook up the killswitch/starter wire to, it was connected to the coil wires beforehand.Ian
1982 GS650GLZ
1982 XS650
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Originally posted by timebombprod View PostHaving trouble, hooked up the coil relay mod correctly, like the diagram I'll provide, I took a video showing the issue. Hoping it's something dumb or just the relay maybe being busted.
No voltage to my coil wires whatsoever.
If the relay does click as is, do a continuity check between pin 87 and 30. There should be continuity when the relay is turned on (killswitch on).
Note all above tests require the ignition on whenever the killswitch is expected on.
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Originally posted by Killer2600 View PostWhen you turn the killswitch to the run/on position do you hear the relay click? If not check that you are getting 12v on pin 86 of the relay when you turn the killswitch on. If you aren't, presuming you don't have a blown fuse or other loss of power, the relay isn't connected to the killswitch wire. If you are getting 12v on pin 86, then try moving your ground for pin 85 directly to battery negative. If the relay now works, your chosen ground was insufficient.
If the relay does click as is, do a continuity check between pin 87 and 30. There should be continuity when the relay is turned on (killswitch on).
Note all above tests require the ignition on whenever the killswitch is expected on.Ian
1982 GS650GLZ
1982 XS650
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Again, kind of hard for me to follow your video, but I *thought* you said you had 12.xx volts at your new (white?) coil connector wire with the Key Off. That shouldn’t happen or your coils will be on all the time. Is the relay you got a NO (Normally Open) relay or a NC (Normally Closed) relay?
A NO relay will not pass current from pin 30 to pin 87 when the relay is inactive, and will only pass current from 30 to 87 when 85 and 86 are passing current. Unplug the relay and put your ohm meter on 30 and 87 and see if you have continuity when t he relay is off.Jim, in Central New York State.
1980 GS750E (bought used June,1983)
1968 CB350 Super Sport (bought new Oct,1968)
1962 CA77 305 Dream (bought used Feb,1963)
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Originally posted by pdqford View PostAgain, kind of hard for me to follow your video, but I *thought* you said you had 12.xx volts at your new (white?) coil connector wire with the Key Off.Last edited by Killer2600; 05-14-2021, 04:57 PM.
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Originally posted by pdqford View PostAgain, kind of hard for me to follow your video, but I *thought* you said you had 12.xx volts at your new (white?) coil connector wire with the Key Off. That shouldn’t happen or your coils will be on all the time. Is the relay you got a NO (Normally Open) relay or a NC (Normally Closed) relay?
A NO relay will not pass current from pin 30 to pin 87 when the relay is inactive, and will only pass current from 30 to 87 when 85 and 86 are passing current. Unplug the relay and put your ohm meter on 30 and 87 and see if you have continuity when t he relay is off.Last edited by timebombprod; 05-14-2021, 10:00 PM.Ian
1982 GS650GLZ
1982 XS650
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Okay so, did those tests.
I checked voltage woth killswitch on ignition off, still no volts to coil wires.
I listened for the relay to click with ignition on killswitch on, nothing, so I went ahead and checked for the voltage at 86 and I have no voltage loss with killswitch off but key on, I turn the killswitch on and I lose about 1.2v which I think is normal function, I did take note that my lights did not dim at all when turning killswitch on.
So, seeing that I had voltage going to the 86, I went ahead and put the ground connection on the negative battery terminal, nothing changed.
Even though I dont hear the relay click, I went ahead and checked for continuity, key off killswitch off 8.48k, key on ignition off, 8.48k, key on ignition on, 8.48k.
I'm bad with understanding continuity but I believe the number should stay zeroIan
1982 GS650GLZ
1982 XS650
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