Spark issue on all four plugs

[Redman]

. . . . . . . . . Because what happening is when I press the start button it gives one spark on all four then when I release the button it gives another spark.

Good that you observed that.

Check battery voltage with key off, then with key on, then when cranking starter, then at idle, than at mid rpm say 4500. Report here.

Also check voltage at coils org/wht wire with key on, and again when cranking starter.

I suspect what is happening is when cranking the voltage is dragging down such that coils cant work well. Due to either old-marginal battery, or battery not well charged due to problem with charging system. Maybe also made worse by loosing voltage between battery and the coils.
Charge up the battery and do the test, and report to here. If you dont have a volt meter, well, ah, you need one.

.

[Eidollan]

Good that you observed that.

Check battery voltage with key off, then with key on, then when cranking starter, then at idle, than at mid rpm say 4500. Report here.

Also check voltage at coils org/wht wire with key on, and again when cranking starter.

I suspect what is happening is when cranking the voltage is dragging down such that coils cant work well. Due to either old-marginal battery, or battery not well charged due to problem with charging system. Maybe also made worse by loosing voltage between battery and the coils.
Charge up the battery and do the test, and report to here. If you dont have a volt meter, well, ah, you need one.

.

Fully charge the battery its giving 12.7v - 12.8v
Key on 12.6v
Cranking starter 10.5v

Weird first push of the button bike started after a few seconds it bogs down and died again bike won't start again. Checked the battery again its now giving 12.5v key off 12.4 key on cranking 10.3v.

I wasn't able to get the voltage when the bike ran... Going to check the voltage at the coils.

[metalfab]

I bet that battery is toast. If you charge it and it reads 12.7 that isn't good because it will have what is called a surface charge inflating the real number. Charge the battery, then turn the headlight on 2 or 3 minutes then check the charge after you turn the light off. If it is 12.6 or 12.7 it's got a chance of being good. A load test would tell the story.

[Gorminrider]

Reading your first post still makes me think you have a problem at the 1-4 side of the ignition. I don't see a reason yet to doubt your battery* unless it is going flat after one or two attempts.

Your first post says the bike starts, runs on all four cylinders for a little while and then quits. Am I wrong?
The rest of the posts suggest you have the dreaded electrical gremlin and these can be difficult to catch....
It might be you just need new spark plugs, or spark plug caps or the wire to the plug is shorting to the tank or your coil is burned out or your TCI has a chafed wire or.....so,my starting point is to fence the gremlin in , checking all the obvious places first...

But Yourfirst task is to read the manual very carefully and get an understanding of how the motorcycle is supposed to work. The Real Shop manuals are the best. Google too. Follow the manual's steps as much as you can. then, ask questions here as to what you don't understand from the manual or your search engine. That helps us follow along.

*Disconnect your headlamp fuse so you have a little more time and current to find the problem. But if you have a car battery handy, with a little bit of thick wire, you can put it on the floor nearby to REPLACE the MC battery and power the circuits much longer while you fiddle. That will take "the battery" out of the equation, "yea or nay", and save you re-charging the motorcycle battery often.

[Eidollan]

I bet that battery is toast. If you charge it and it reads 12.7 that isn't good because it will have what is called a surface charge inflating the real number. Charge the battery, then turn the headlight on 2 or 3 minutes then check the charge after you turn the light off. If it is 12.6 or 12.7 it's got a chance of being good. A load test would tell the story.

I did that and it did say 12.7v -12.6v with the head light on. I borrowed a well known good battery from a working bike and still that same bike won't start.

[Eidollan]

Reading your first post still makes me think you have a problem at the 1-4 side of the ignition. I don't see a reason yet to doubt your battery* unless it is going flat after one or two attempts.

Your first post says the bike starts, runs on all four cylinders for a little while and then quits. Am I wrong?
The rest of the posts suggest you have the dreaded electrical gremlin and these can be difficult to catch....
It might be you just need new spark plugs, or spark plug caps or the wire to the plug is shorting to the tank or your coil is burned out or your TCI has a chafed wire or.....so,my starting point is to fence the gremlin in , checking all the obvious places first...

But Yourfirst task is to read the manual very carefully and get an understanding of how the motorcycle is supposed to work. The Real Shop manuals are the best. Google too. Follow the manual's steps as much as you can. then, ask questions here as to what you don't understand from the manual or your search engine. That helps us follow along.

*Disconnect your headlamp fuse so you have a little more time and current to find the problem. But if you have a car battery handy, with a little bit of thick wire, you can put it on the floor nearby to REPLACE the MC battery and power the circuits much longer while you fiddle. That will take "the battery" out of the equation, "yea or nay", and save you re-charging the motorcycle battery often.

I tried my battery on another bike and it starts no problem then I tried a good battery still the same, bike cranks one spark upon pressing the start button and no spark while pressing and another spark when I release the start button so at this point I'm pretty sure battery is not the issue. I glance the shop manual but not fully read it yet(had no time) manual said check the ignition coils if they are still on spec primary should be 3-5 ohms and secondary should be 30k-50k ohms cylinder 1 and 4 shows 3.7ohm on the primary, secondary shows 41k ohms and ignition coils for 2-3 shows 3.5ohms on the primary and 45k ohms on the secondary so they are still on spec.

Spark plugs are fairly new just 4 months old, I'm also thinking it could be the spark plug cap because I'm seeing cracks on it or sparkplug wire.

I did notice something I checked the white orange wire that's connected to the ignition coil by connecting a wire to it and grounding it to the frame, turned the key on with out pushing the start button it gave sparks.

[Gorminrider]

The orange/white-stripe wire is + charge and if you ground it it will spark AND blow the fuse labelled "IGN" in the fuse box. It is the ignition circuits power supply.. You will see that following the manual's wiring diagram by looking for "O/W"...

[Redman]

.
.
Also check voltage at coils org/wht wire with key on, and again when cranking starter.

I suspect what is happening is when cranking the voltage is dragging down such that coils cant work well. .
...
Maybe also made worse by loosing voltage between battery and the coils.
Charge up the battery and do the test, and report to here. . . . . .

.

............. Going to check the voltage at the coils.

Yes, Do that.

I tried my battery on another bike and it starts no problem then I tried a good battery still the same, bike cranks one spark upon pressing the start button and no spark while pressing and another spark when I release the start button so at this point I'm pretty sure battery is not the issue. .........

Good diagnostics by substitution. Yah, then dont need to suspect the battery any further.
Then other possibility is that loosing voltage somewhere from the battery/main to the ignition coils (Org/Wht wire).

So, ah, um.... check voltage at the coils before cranking, and during cranking.

ANd/Or as a test: you could run your own wire from batt+(or main)(or aux terminal) to the coils and see what sparks you get then while cranking.

[Redman]

I. . . . . . . .. I'm also thinking it could be the spark plug cap because I'm seeing cracks on it or sparkplug wire.. . . . .

Spark plug caps can cause misc ignition problems.
You can twist them off the wire and test them with a ohm meter. Assuming they are the type for stock coils and wires, Should be 5K OHM. They go a lot higher ohm with age and heat and usage. New ones are $5 or less apiece.

But your symptoms of a few sparks and then none while cranking and then a couple more when let off the starter, is typical symptoms of low voltage that is made lower while cranking.

[Eidollan]

Yes, Do that.






Good diagnostics by substitution. Yah, then dont need to suspect the battery any further.
Then other possibility is that loosing voltage somewhere from the battery/main to the ignition coils (Org/Wht wire).

So, ah, um.... check voltage at the coils before cranking, and during cranking.

ANd/Or as a test: you could run your own wire from batt+(or main)(or aux terminal) to the coils and see what sparks you get then while cranking.

Haven't had the chance to check the voltage on the coils, will do that next will let you know the result

[Eidollan]

Spark plug caps can cause misc ignition problems.
You can twist them off the wire and test them with a ohm meter. Assuming they are the type for stock coils and wires, Should be 5K OHM. They go a lot higher ohm with age and heat and usage. New ones are $5 or less apiece.

But your symptoms of a few sparks and then none while cranking and then a couple more when let off the starter, is typical symptoms of low voltage that is made lower while cranking.

Thanks for the input... Bike is fixed, when buying spark plug caps I decided to also buy 2 ignition coils since the ignition coils on the bike where still the stock, first I did was attach the new spark plug caps to the old ignition coils, still the same issue so I installed the new coils with the new caps and the bike ran great rode it a couple of miles and no issue.