Ignition System problems - no spark on plugs

[Quinton]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first time posting here after scrounging the internet for resources. Long story short, I bought a non-running 1981 GS1000G. Replaced a bunch of stuff and got it to run. In the process of repairs I decided my CDI needed replaced along with the coil packs. I bought a used CDI and everything seemed fine.

I finally got the charging system working again so I tried to jump my bike as the battery was very dead and my trickle charger has a lower limit of 8V. I got a couple fires out of it but then it stopped. I went and bought a new battery since I figured the old one needed replacing anyway. I put it in and hooked everything up but now the only thing it’ll do is crank the starter motor. No spark on the plugs. Also, it appears my new starter solenoid’s primary coil is no longer working. I think I might’ve fried my CDI and the solenoid but I have no clue.

I came for advice because I don’t know what to do about this ignition system. The CDI being bad is my biggest issue because I can’t spend $300-600 or more on a new CDI and buying another used one seems like I’m just paying for a ticking bomb. At this point if I bought a used one I feel like there’s a decent chance it goes bad at some point and I was really hoping to make this bike my long term motorcycle.

Thanks in advance. I really appreciate any help.

[Killer2600]

Also, it appears my new starter solenoid’s primary coil is no longer working.

What makes you say this? How are you getting to motor to crank if the starter solenoid is not working?

[Quinton]

The primary coil is the one that stopped working. So when I click the button it’s not actually opening the secondary could to draw power from the battery. However, you can bypass this by using a wire or screwdriver and physicaly touching your two poles together. That sends power straight to the starter motor and bypasses the “switch” created by the primary coil in the solenoid.

[Nessism]

Your bike doesn't have a CDI but I digress.

Since the bike fired up before the original IGNITOR is most likely okay. Worst case you can install a Dyna S which is about $130. This unit replaces the ignitor and pick-up coils. Regarding the starter solenoid, maybe the starter button is dirty? You might want to check voltage at the solenoid when the button is pressed.

[Killer2600]

The primary coil is the one that stopped working. So when I click the button it’s not actually opening the secondary could to draw power from the battery. However, you can bypass this by using a wire or screwdriver and physicaly touching your two poles together. That sends power straight to the starter motor and bypasses the “switch” created by the primary coil in the solenoid.

So the real problem is you're not getting power to the kill switch and starter button - why you have no spark and starter solenoid. Inspect fuses, fusebox, ignition switch, and wiring.

[Redman]

. . . . . . .

I finally got the charging system working again so I tried to jump my bike as the battery was very dead and my trickle charger has a lower limit of 8V. I got a couple fires out of it but then it stopped. . . . . . .

Describe "jump my bike".
Meaning jumper cables from another battery? from another car/truck? from another car/truck that was running?

.

[Redman]

. . . . . . . . . when I click the button it’s not . . . . .draw power from the battery. . . .

Your talk of "primary" relative to the starter solenoid is confusing.
THe solenoid has only one coil (on the small wire from starter button and clutch switch) and has a set of contacts (on the two big terminals).

Relative to the solenoid not seeming to operate: Check to see if getting power to the small wire (grn/yel) when push the starter button while also holding in clutch. Other test could be to jump power to that small wire.
Can also check for power at the kill switch and starter button (have to open up the right controls).
Stock configuration of a 1981 will have a switch on the clutch lever in the circuit between the starter button and the solenoid.

[Redman]

Hi Everyone,

This is my first time posting here after scrounging the internet for resources. . . . . . .

Quinton, Welcome to THe GSR.

Would be good for you to post in "Owners" section for something of an introduction.

Are a couple GSR members in Cinci area, and some up by Dayton.

[Quinton]

I think it’s technically an igniter unit.

as for the button I’m pretty sure I somehow fried it in the open position when trying to jump it. I combed through almost every inch of the wiring on this bike including the switch. I took it apart and cleaned it and it’s still getting voltage at correct times after I checked today.

when I press the button it’s sending the full voltage to the solenoid. The solenoid just isn’t doing anything with it.

As for the igniter unit (the thing that tells the coils when to fire each cylinder just in case I’m referring to it wrong), I can’t think of what else could be wrong and I haven’t found a method to test it. I know my coils are getting voltage and the connections are good plus I bought them brand new not two months ago. All I know is my spark plugs are actually sparking.

[Quinton]

Yeah I had to go through all that wiring the first time I got it running. After testing some stuff I can say that the solenoid is definitely getting volts only when the starter button is pressed. Connecting the two outside poles from the battery and to the starter motor results in it turning over. I jumped it with a jumper pack and I’m worried I fried the new solenoid I bought as well as the used igniter unit.

[Quinton]

Describe "jump my bike".
Meaning jumper cables from another battery? from another car/truck? from another car/truck that was running?

.

I used a jumper pack. Like the ones that look like big portable phone batteries.

[Redman]

I think it’s technically an igniter unit..........

Yes, Ignitor, not CDI.
THe ignitor is electronics that swtich the ignition coils on and off like the breaker points used to.

. . . . . .

as for the button I’m pretty sure I somehow fried it in the open position when trying to jump it........

when I press the button it’s sending the full voltage to the solenoid. The solenoid just isn’t doing anything with it........

If press button and then get full voltage to the solenoid, well, then the starter button (and kill switch) (and clutch swtich if have one yet) must be working okay, so am not understand yhou jcomment about starter switch "fried in open position".

What you said about getting power to the solenoid by solenoid not doing anywthing with it, sounds exactly like what would happen if the solenoid was not grounded. Notice that the solenois has the grn/yel wire going to it from the starter button, but is no ground wire connection on it. It is suppose to be grounded by what it is bolted to, which is usaly the battery box, which is not well grounded to the frame. So Is suppose to be a ground wire (blk/wht) from the bike harness connected (by big ring terminal) to the bolt that mounts the solenoid to the battery box.

When you tested with a meter (or test lamp probe) and said have power to the solenoid, if you had the meter negitive on battery negitive or on the frame somewhere, try it again, and then again with meter negitive right on the solenoid mounting bolt.

Look and see if have a blk/wht wire on the solenoid mounting bolt.
As a test you can run your own wire from the solenoid mounting bolt to the battery neg (or frame somewhere).
Note: the R/R ground wire (usally black) is often mounted there also on solenoid mounting bolt.

THere can be lots of discussion about what is the best grounding strategy, butr for now we are just trying to troubleshoot why your solenoid doesnt operate.

ANd this tread can get confusion with us talking about two probloems: solenoid and ignition.
Early had been moention of maybe was one thing causing both, as they are both on the Ignition Fuse circuit. But now that youj have said do get positive power to the solenoid, it seems they are two different problems.

[Quinton]

Quinton, Welcome to THe GSR.

Would be good for you to post in "Owners" section for something of an introduction.

Are a couple GSR members in Cinci area, and some up by Dayton.

Thank you, I'll do that

[Quinton]

Yes, Ignitor, not CDI.
THe ignitor is electronics that swtich the ignition coils on and off like the breaker points used to.




If press button and then get full voltage to the solenoid, well, then the starter button (and kill switch) (and clutch swtich if have one yet) must be working okay, so am not understand yhou jcomment about starter switch "fried in open position".

What you said about getting power to the solenoid by solenoid not doing anywthing with it, sounds exactly like what would happen if the solenoid was not grounded. Notice that the solenois has the grn/yel wire going to it from the starter button, but is no ground wire connection on it. It is suppose to be grounded by what it is bolted to, which is usaly the battery box, which is not well grounded to the frame. So Is suppose to be a ground wire (blk/wht) from the bike harness connected (by big ring terminal) to the bolt that mounts the solenoid to the battery box.

When you tested with a meter (or test lamp probe) and said have power to the solenoid, if you had the meter negitive on battery negitive or on the frame somewhere, try it again, and then again with meter negitive right on the solenoid mounting bolt.

Look and see if have a blk/wht wire on the solenoid mounting bolt.
As a test you can run your own wire from the solenoid mounting bolt to the battery neg (or frame somewhere).
Note: the R/R ground wire (usally black) is often mounted there also on solenoid mounting bolt.

THere can be lots of discussion about what is the best grounding strategy, butr for now we are just trying to troubleshoot why your solenoid doesnt operate.

ANd this tread can get confusion with us talking about two probloems: solenoid and ignition.
Early had been moention of maybe was one thing causing both, as they are both on the Ignition Fuse circuit. But now that youj have said do get positive power to the solenoid, it seems they are two different problems.

So I was thinking I could have just messed it up when jumping it with the battery pack. I put a universal solenoid on since I had the same issue with the OEM solenoid and it fixed the problem. I can still get it to crank by connecting the input and output terminals on the solenoid.

[Redman]

I used a jumper pack. Like the ones that look like big portable phone batteries.

Ah, okay, I dont know how that can have enough amperage to run a starter motor, but okay, that should not cause any additional problems, well, unless got it in wrong polarity.

My concern was if jump wit running car/truck, that can cause problems with bikes charging system.