Suzuki GR (almost GS) 2 cyl Tempter is charging low .. and coil question

[Rich82GS750TZ]

If you’re referring to the green wire with the lug connected to your bat-, I have no idea, AFAIK there are no bright green wires like that in the factory wiring.

[dennco2]

Glad you asked! That green ground wire was on the bike when I bought it and was extra long with a loop .... and bolted to the part shown on the picture which I assumed was the SPG grounding the engine and frame together and whatever else grounds desired. I shortened the green ground wire and put lugs on both ends ... crimping and soldering them on. I cut a groove on one side so I could see the solder flow. If you see any reason I should change that grounding point ... or improve it please let me know.

groundwire2.jpg

[grcamna2]

Glad you asked! That green ground wire was on the bike when I bought it and was extra long with a loop .... and bolted to the part shown on the picture which I assumed was the SPG grounding the engine and frame together and whatever else grounds desired. I shortened the green ground wire and put lugs on both ends ... crimping and soldering them on. I cut a groove on one side so I could see the solder flow. If you see any reason I should change that grounding point ... or improve it please let me know.

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That green ground strap is an excellent idea dennco2

[dennco2]

I am attempting to make progress changing out my R/R to the sh775. I pulled the old one off it's 5 pin stock connector and decided to grind off the plastic on ONE side .... to have something to solder 5 new strands of 16 gauge wires that will be going to the sh775 when I get that far. Looks like I should get those recommended matching plugs. The sh775 will be within 6 inches of the old one for the connectors. The stock old wires are NOT lined up in sequential order and the red and B/W ground wire are on opposite ends. I have read quite a bit on this GSR forum ... and learned a lot but when I look at my stock bike, I see variations of what I hoping to see. The picture is just a mock up of related parts ... not in final position.

mockup2.jpg

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I’m no expert, and I’ve been through what you’re going through exactly one time. The green wire looks heavy enough to me, and the connection to the frame looks like it’s probably OK. In order to be a single point ground, your other ground wires would all collect the that single point, hence the name. Another common mounting point is the starter solenoid mounting screw. Again, this is one common configuration. Like so:


As for the connections to the RR, the Triumph connector is great. I used a connector set from Amazon that I had to piece together myself, initially, which was about the same price as the Triumph connector. I recently swapped in the Much higher quality Triumph connector. I’ll find the item number if you need it, but if you’ve been digging around, you’ve surely come across it. I’m sure you’ve also seen Nessism’s SSH 775 connection diagram as well, and have read about how and why to eliminate the headlamp loop/connect all 3 legs of the stator directly to the RR.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Dennco2, realizing that we’re talking about a GR, not a GS, I have no Idea how much, if any of what I wrote is applicable.

[grcamna2]

I am attempting to make progress changing out my R/R to the sh775. I pulled the old one off it's 5 pin stock connector and decided to grind off the plastic on ONE side .... to have something to solder 5 new strands of 16 gauge wires that will be going to the sh775 when I get that far. Looks like I should get those recommended matching plugs. The sh775 will be within 6 inches of the old one for the connectors. The stock old wires are NOT lined up in sequential order and the red and B/W ground wire are on opposite ends. I have read quite a bit on this GSR forum ... and learned a lot but when I look at my stock bike, I see variations of what I hoping to see. The picture is just a mock up of related parts ... not in final position.

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I like how the Triumph reg/rect. plug pt.#T2500676 wire harness/connector which is available through a Triumph dealer is a direct plug-into the SH775 although the other two Triumph wire harness plugs(which come with the special harness)need to be trimmed-off for adapting to our Suzukis.I have also connected an Sh775 using 5) individual female spade connectors.

[dennco2]

I’m no expert, and I’ve been through what you’re going through exactly one time. The green wire looks heavy enough to me, and the connection to the frame looks like it’s probably OK. In order to be a single point ground, your other ground wires would all collect the that single point, hence the name. Another common mountain point is the starter solenoid mounting screw. Again, this is one common configuration. Like so:


As for the connections to the RR, the Triumph connector is great. I used a connector set from Amazon that I had to piece together myself, initially, which was about the same price as the Triumph connector. I recently swapped in the Much higher quality Triumph connector. I’ll find the item number if you need it, but if you’ve been digging around, you’ve surely come across it. I’m sure you’ve also seen Nessism’s SSH 775 connection diagram as well, and have read about how and why to eliminate the headlamp loop/connect all 3 legs of the stator directly to the RR.

Yes I have read those postings and also printed them out. There seemed to be some discussion of pros and cons of wiring up the old and new way .... and I was left confused as to the best way. I want to do it right ... the 1st time. I did not get very far trying to trace battery + wire back to the fuse box and back out into the wiring harness heading forward .... possibly to the handle bar? Wish my electron knowledge was at a higher level.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

“My charging system sorted” link in my signature is a pretty thorough, if typical, story of just about everything you can expect to encounter. Again, assuming the GR charging system is similar to the GS.

[dennco2]

“My charging system sorted” link in my signature is a pretty thorough, if typical, story of just about everything you can expect to encounter. Again, assuming the GR charging system is similar to the GS.

Yes Rich, I just read all those postings in your Sorted thread ... and I seem to be having the same challenges. Very helpful and it cleared up a lot of questions. Not sure how to cut out the headlight loop? Do I sever the RED wire after it comes out of the fuse box and try to solder a return to the battery from there?

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I don't know what your wiring diagram looks like, but, it really is simpler than it sounds. On the GS's (here's a good, typical, nice Color WD that's easy to follow) you see a White/green wire leave the stator, go all the way up to the left handlebar switch, do nothing, then return to the RR (5 on the WD) as a White/Red wire. Eliminating that loop is what it's all about. So when you wire the stator to the RR (the 3 prong left connector of the SH775) you wire all 3 legs from the stator directly to the RR, leaving out the headlamp loop. You can just tape up and tuck away those White/Red and White/Green ends, as they serve no purpose.

[pdqford]

Glad you asked! That green ground wire was on the bike when I bought it and was extra long with a loop .... and bolted to the part shown on the picture which I assumed was the SPG grounding the engine and frame together and whatever else grounds desired. I shortened the green ground wire and put lugs on both ends ... crimping and soldering them on. I cut a groove on one side so I could see the solder flow. If you see any reason I should change that grounding point ... or improve it please let me know.

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To see if that green ground strap going to the battery negative post is adequate for the starter load, which will put the heaviest load on the green ground wire, put your meter on the 20V DC scale. Put the positive meter lead on a bare spot on the starter CASE, and the negative meter lead on the negative battery POST. Put the circuit under load by cranking the engine. The meter will read voltage that can’t be handled by the circuit between your two meter leads, aka the circuit’s voltage drop. If while cranking the engine, the meter reading doesn’t exceed 0.2V, the green ground strap is good to go.

[dennco2]

I don't know what your wiring diagram looks like, but, it really is simpler than it sounds. On the GS's (here's a good, typical, nice Color WD that's easy to follow) you see a White/green wire leave the stator, go all the way up to the left handlebar switch, do nothing, then return to the RR (5 on the WD) as a White/Red wire. Eliminating that loop is what it's all about. So when you wire the stator to the RR (the 3 prong left connector of the SH775) you wire all 3 legs from the stator directly to the RR, leaving out the headlamp loop. You can just tape up and tuck away those White/Red and White/Green ends, as they serve no purpose.

I found the GR wiring diagram in my newly acquired service manual. All black ... no color on service manual diagram. Looks like w/blue and yellow go straight to R/R but w/g to right handlebar switch .... and then returns white and red to R/R. I am having a hard time figuring out how which direction the battery and stator juice are flowing into and out of the R/R. Do I have to cut the white/green wire and if so ... where? Like you say, it is simpler than I am making it out to be. For further clarity, I will try to upload the wiring diagram in another post ... if I can figure out how to do it.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

I’m not sure how else to explain it so I’ll turn it over to the experts. Nessism has dumbed it down for us. https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...nstall-Diagram



When you wire up the SH775, the 3 stator wires, color doesn’t matter, go to the left side of the SH775, you’ll likely have to cut all 3, but leave as much length of wire connected to the stator as possible. The White/Green and the White/red that go to/from the handlebar switch (apparently the right one on a GR) will be out of play, taped up and tucked away. The Red from the right side of the SH775 (brown on the Triumph connector) connects to the red wire that used to connect to the stock RR, so when you cut that one, again, cut as close to the stock RR as possible, or, if there’s a bullet connector, use it, and put a corresponding bullet on the red (or brown)wire from the SH775. The black wire on the right side of the RR goes to good ground, SPG, or to battery negative if you’d rather.

As for how you physically connect your stator wires to your new SH775 wires, there are some who like to solder them, some who use spade connectors, crimped. I prefer the OEM style bullet connectors from Vintage Connections, using their crimp tool. I suck at soldering. I’ve read about a lot of heat in these stator wires and these connections so some think soldering isn’t ok there. I don’t know. But I think my crimps are pretty good.


One other thing. Corrosion at any of these connections is cause for resistance/heat and early failure. Make sure all connections are clean. Deoxit is great for cleaning up light corrosion, it also protects and lubricates. For heavier Corrosion I clean with naval jelly, it’s messier to use, has to all be washed off in about 10-15 minutes, but really does a good job. I flush the jelly off with a water pic, dry with compressed air, make sure it’s dry with a spritz of electronics contact spray, then a spritz of deoxit. Everyone’s got their own methods. This works for me. I don’t typically use any dielectric grease on these connections, I do put a tiny bit on battery terminals, spark plug sockets, on top of my SPG. Again, lots of opinions on its use

[grcamna2]

Excellent post,always refreshing to see it again.
Thanks Rich.