ignition getting hot, starts to stick.

[timebombprod]

well, been using the bike to go to school lately (hour 20 round trip) and for the most part it goes fine except usually about 10-15minutes on the way back i will get what i believe to be spark detonation between my fire and full advance mark (1100-2500rpm). ill be fine for about 30 minutes of riding atleast but theres a point where it does not move as smoothly as it should. i think heat has a big play in this as im in florida, the bike is aircooled, and i do sit in traffic a decent bit.

im figuring high bearing grease is the way to go for this but if anyone has a better lubricant to use feel free to suggest it. also i was curious if anyone has ever drilled holes and added a filter to the ignition case, i figured giving some airflow to the area and adding a filter between the holes to minimize dust would be a decent idea, but i have no clue, would the wind affect the timing movement if its too much airflow?

[Cipher]

A screen door on a submarine?

If there is notchiness replace the part may be indicated

Oddly though my cover has no gasket just a tight fitting lapped mating surface.

[timebombprod]

A screen door on a submarine?

If there is notchiness replace the part may be indicated

Oddly though my cover has no gasket just a tight fitting lapped mating surface.

mechanical advance opens and closes just fine by itself and ignition is new nothing should need replacing.

the ignition is completely dry so i didnt know if the air flow through it would be a good idea to help keeping it cool

my cover had no gasket either just sits bare metal to metal

[Cipher]

mechanical advance opens and closes just fine by itself and ignition is new nothing should need replacing.

the ignition is completely dry so i didnt know if the air flow through it would be a good idea to help keeping it cool

my cover had no gasket either just sits bare metal to metal

Fashion a mesh cover by shaping stiff screen
Do test runs
Doubt ittl do anything. The parts were engineered for the Temps to be endured.

[timebombprod]

Fashion a mesh cover by shaping stiff screen
Do test runs
Doubt ittl do anything. The parts were engineered for the Temps to be endured.

i guess we'll see lol, just gonna be drilling smaller holes. gonna do the bearing grease first but ive lubricated the ignition and advance before.

[Rijko]

Drilling holes is NOT a good solution.
I'd take some tools with me, as soon as the issue occurs again just take the ignition cover off and see if something is really hot.
I have never seen something like that.

I have seen coils fail when warmed up, or a gas tank sucking vacuum, or even engines setup way too lean run hot.
Have you checked spark plugs ?

[timebombprod]

i have checked the spark, it doesnt seem much out the ordinary, i did notice spark plug 2 and 3 look a bit fuel fouled and 1 and 4 look more normal. i guess i should take pictures.

just remembered that cylinder 2 and 3 are on the same coilpack, while that could be the issue it does only occur before 2500 rpm which is the full advance mark, so i should check the ignition first just because its the first idea that popped in my mind from this issue. could also have to deal with the point that correlates for that coilpack

i will add that the bike acts fine under no load, but once im going in gear thats when it occurs.

[timebombprod]

never updated, might need to use a timing light instead of a test light to time my ignition, the fire mark is centered with the corresponding timing mark, the full advance mark on the other hand does interfere with its timing mark but is not centered. originally i believe the issue was the timing advance was sticking when hot because a lack of lubrication which has been fixed, but i had to reseat the ignition and try to get it where it was with the timing which may be why my bike is acting up after lubricating the advance.

when in neutral the bike revs freely but under a load up to 25-2600rpm the bike acts up while cold aswell instead of just after a 30 minute ride, it isn't a carb issue from what i believe because its not a bogging sound or lack of fuel sound, i believe what is going on is spark detonation. i dont believe a coilpack can directly be faulty for only a certain amount of rpms, especially the rpms associated with my timing, and i do get spark from both coilpacks so i would assume they are fine.

any suggestions of something to check or do let me know. i think where i screwed up is moving the points on the ignition and in that case ill have to figure a way to have them perfectly aligned on the ignition plate so they are at the exact opposite sides of eachother.

[tom203]

Get a timing light....full advance is by 3600 to 4000 rpm
and don’t drill holes in that cover

[timebombprod]

Get a timing light....full advance is by 3600 to 4000 rpm
and don’t drill holes in that cover

im not drilling any holes lol, full advance is 2500 im like 99.9% sure

[Agemax]

im not drilling any holes lol, full advance is 2500 im like 99.9% sure

if you took the time to look in the factory service manual, in the link i posted on your other thread, you will see for sure that full advance is at 3500rpm.

[timebombprod]

if you took the time to look in the factory service manual, in the link i posted on your other thread, you will see for sure that full advance is at 3500rpm.

mustve mixed it up, my bad. still gonna be messing with the timing, wish i lubricated it well before i installed it the first time.

[timebombprod]

checked timing today, seems to be fine, actuates smoothly and hit full advance mark right before 3500, manual calls for 34-3500 so im guessing timing is fine.


so i guess i have to ask why would my bike only act up under load from 1100 to 2500 rpm? can this link back to carbs? if so the pilot jets are stock, bike is 2 1/4 turns out, and all 4 cylinders operate at idle, last time i rode it did lean out a bit near the end by revving up high, my bike generally idles a few hundred rpm higher after a good amount of riding as opposed to warming up for 5 minutes. when i was at 2 3/4 turns out bike was fine until it wasnt, and thats basically how this post started. went to 2 1/4 after the day the problem initially happened and when i went to ride it was acting up from the start, ofcourse this is always under load. where would somebody start to look with a problem like this?

only thing i can add is i have went through 2 spark plugs very quickly and both were different cylinders and not on the same coilpack. right now im fine but then again i havent rode much lately

[timebombprod]

checked timing using the timing light again but this time i hooked up the pulser coil to spark #2, was full advance at 3k, checked #1, same thing, i guess the ignition moves at the same speed whether revving slow or fast, it glides smoothly but im guessing it basically has the same speed when advancing. anyone by chance know which way to move the points to make the full advance later?

[tom203]

On that side ,Crankshaft turns clockwise, so rotate signal plate clockwise to delay advance