Hot Stator Wires

[GS1100GZ]

Please bear with me as this is the 1st time I have used a forum.

I just picked up a 1982 GS1100GZ off of ebay. I was giving it a going over before riding it and noticed that it was charging at about low 13 VDC at the battery @ 5K rpm. PO told me that he replaced the battery and that's all he knew. I think he just flipped the bike as he only put a couple hundred miles on it. I started going over the wires and connections and noticed a few wiring mods. I found a factory service manual and according to that the R/R was bad. I replaced the R/R and it now charges at about 13.9 VDC @ 5K rpm.

After reading MANY posts on this forum I figured out that some PO must have read this forum. The bike has the coil relay, SPG, and 2 legs of the stator were connected directly to the R/R. I went over the wiring and checked all the connectors. Everything looks good. I checked for voltage drops in the electrical compartment area but not up front. I've printed out the wiring diagram and highlighted the different circuits. I'll look for voltage drops up front in the next couple of days.

Here's the problem. I happened to touch the stator leads where they tie into the R/R leads. They were very warm. The bike was running so I immediately shut it down. I checked other wires in the area and everything was OK. I don't know what would happen if the bike ran any longer. Has anyone experienced anything like this?

I claim to be an electronics tech. I worked on avionics in the Navy, industrial manufacturing equipment, and QC on what we produced. I learn better by hands on and not by reading unless I have the prints next to me.

Thanks in advance.

P.S I ran into so many links that were no good and many pictures were missing.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

Welcome

Either you mis-typed or the PO didn't do everything he should have with the wiring mods. One of the mods most of us do is to run ALL 3 of the stator legs directly to the R/R, eliminating the use headlamp loop of the original wiring. Good that you found the wiring diagram and know how to use it. I could be wrong, but I believe heat comes from how the original R/R shunts excess voltage, combined with corroded connections causing resistance/heat and eventually melting the stator to R/R connections and burning up the stator. Many of us have replaced the OEM R/R with a series type like the Shindengen SH775. You may have seen it already, but there is quick test linked in my signature. Start with a new or known good battery, run the test, and report all 6 numbers. My charging system story is also in my signature. It's a pretty thorough documentation and typical for these bikes. I went into it with know knowledge of bike electrics, You've at least got a head start there.

[phydeauxmutt]

As an electronics tech, you should know that heat is caused by current flowing through resistance. The stator is providing the current, the (most likely dirty) connectors are providing the resistance. Clean or replace the connectors, then make sure the third stator output is also connected directly to the R/R.

[Rijko]

I replaced the R/R

With what type/brand R/R did you replace the old one ?

[Redman]

.....
........ I happened to touch the stator leads where they tie into the R/R leads. They were very warm. ..


I claim to be an electronics tech. I worked on avionics in the Navy, industrial manufacturing equipment, .....
...

Welcome to TheGSR.

Given your experience, and the fact that you were looking for voltage drops, I would say you are well equipped to deal with this.

You said the stator leads were hot. If you check further you will observe that it is the area of the connections (stator/RR) that are the source of the heat. THe wires a little further away will not be as hot.
ANd I suspect the connectors surface where the connector connect to next connector is not the main problem. You can clean that up and see if any improvement. But problem my experience with stock connectors is "corrosion" where the connector is crimped onto the wire, and there really isnt any cleaning that up. If you want to prove it to yourself: cut off the connectors and temporally wirenut the wires together to see if better proformance and less hot wires. Better fix is the better crimper tool (not the cheap one that make one dent) and better crimp connectors (not the typical ones in auto parts store). I dont have links-info on these, other folks might.

Other observation I have had is that if the wire has been overheated repeatedly over long time, where insulation/connector is deformed/discolored, then also the wire strands have become brittle and dont receive the crimp connectors well. So need to cut back the wires to less effected area (and then maybe not enough length remaining). This is my own observation/experience (havent seen other folks say such).

[GS1100GZ]

I tied all 3 legs to the stator. I know that heat is caused by current flowing through resistance. I went through the connectors checking and cleaning them with Deoxit. I then applied dielectric grease. I've measured resistance AND voltage drop through the connectors. I haven’t checked the ignition or handlebar switches yet. I don’t want to solder all the connectors if I don’t have to. I have a new known good battery.

I've done all the charging system checks from this site. Everything checks normal. I installed a Rick's Motorsports shunt type R/R. I went with the shunt type because a tech there explained to me that they have seen issues on older bikes with a series type R/R. I know that you guys have had good luck with the series R/R. I went with the shunt type because I figured that they would have to stand behind their product if things didn’t work out.

I have gone over everything at least 2 or 3 times. Not all in the same day. I feel like I’ve missed something. I ran out of gas and will need to get some. I was hoping that someone here had seen something different. When I get some gas I will go over everything again.

P.S. I'm thinking that a PO had issues that he couldn't resolve with the mods and this is why he sold it maybe.

[Rich82GS750TZ]

P.S. I'm thinking that a PO had issues that he couldn't resolve with the mods and this is why he sold it maybe.

Wouldn't be the first time. That's how I got my bike for free.

[salty_monk]

The Series type doesn't protect the RR it protects the stator. Ricks won't care about that unless they sold you the stator too.... I don't think Rick's has a series to sell do they? That might be more the reason they steered you that way.

[Redman]

. . . . .

I have gone over everything at least 2 or 3 times. Not all in the same day. I feel like I’ve missed something. .

.. ..

Relative to the stator wires heating up? after cleaning connectors?
Maybe my post (#5) was made during same time as you were making your post (#6).

[GS1100GZ]

Wouldn't be the first time. That's how I got my bike for free.

We met in person and completed the sale. He canceled the listing. So I have no recourse. Maybe he knew something.

[GS1100GZ]

Relative to the stator wires heating up? after cleaning connectors?
Maybe my post (#5) was made during same time as you were making your post (#6).

Yes after the cleanup. I was so *@%^$*@%^$*@%^$*@%^$ed that I didn't feel around anymore at that time. Since then I've only ran the bike for very short times as I went back over things one at a time.

Wow. Didn't know that was a bad word.

[salty_monk]

You could always go direct to the RR with both the stator wires and a live/ground either as a temporary or permanent measure to see if it solves the problem.

I run mine direct to Battery through an inline fuse and also back to the battery for ground. There is thinking as to why this is not the absolute best method (really into the harness at original point and a single point ground would be) but it does take any resistance in connectors totally out of the equation.

[salty_monk]

Also have you done AC stator tests? It’s possible that one leg of your stator is dead.

have a look at “the stator papers”

[Grimly]

Not the first time I've read of Rick's steering customers towards their own R-R, as they didn't at the time (and possibly still don't) have a series offering.
Bad business, in my book.

[Rijko]

I installed a Rick's Motorsports shunt type R/R.

I tied all 3 legs to the stator.

In that case i would restore the headlamp loop unless you always drive with lights on.