I too am working a no spark and voltage loss issue.
No coils. but not 100% sure what's on it since I've not done that deep. just pulled off the right-side cover to make sure the engine was seized and it's an electronic setup
My tests results are below, but I only spent an hour so they are incomplete and will have to shelve the bike to work on something else.
12.67 volts at the battery (new battery but I didn't charge it up. but it will hold easily 13.6x volts when fully charge)
Lose about 2 volts at the orange and white wires when key is on and not cranking
Lose about 4 volts total when cranking.
I took the switch apart and seems I'm missing the metal plate that when you move the toggle to RUN, it bridges the 2 poles.
I did find the small spring had fallen sideways and it seems this was bridging when in the RUN position making contact before I took the switch apart.
I fixed that and put the ball bearing so it springs in the detent. Of course now. no bridge so no crank.
So I will either need to make a repair of find a substitute for the switch to fix that bridge part.
Now when manually bridging the switch poles with a screwdriver, I see a yellow spark (key on, not cranking) at the plugs.
Saw someone mentioned this seems to be common.
Plan is to fix or bypass the switch since if that's not working, nothing will.
Also made a cable to go from the hotside of the solenoid to both orange/white positive coil leads, but got busy on the switch and never tried the combo of bridging and cranking.
Best way to approach this when I work on it again in a month?
Sources for acceptable switches others have used? I could probably find a toggle and rig it in or just replace the entire switch / horn unit.
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