Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1979 GS550N regulator/ rectifier or rectifier only?

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    1979 GS550N regulator/ rectifier or rectifier only?

    Hi guys

    Can somebody please help me identify if this unit with part number DE3804, is a reg/rec or just a rec? I seem to be getting mixed answers online.
    I can not find a regulator unit on the bike.
    I’m thinking it is a rec only, because I tested the voltage at the battery at 5k rpm. It read 16.5 volts.
    Headlight switch was off and headlight unplug.

    Thank you
    Attached Files
    sigpic 1980 GS550E

    #2
    Can’t help identifying the pn#…..but I’d guess that’s a replacement combo rectifier / regulator unit. I’m sure you read all the stuff about shunt vs series r/r units. At a minimum , I’d opt for a used Honda r/r from around 1980,, like a SH-2xx series…..your stator seems good, but you won’t really know till it’s loaded!
    1981 gs650L

    "We are all born ignorant, but you have to work hard to stay stupid" Ben Franklin

    Comment


      #3
      16.5v is way too high and will cook your battery. A quick google leads me to be believe that the DE3804 is a Reg/Rec off of a late '70s Yamaha. Plenty of stories on here about how to fix the GS charging system for good. After doing it myself, don't know why anyone would do anything but install a SH775, clean up the grounds to a single point, and eliminate the headlamp loop.
      Rich
      1982 GS 750TZ
      2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

      BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
      Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the response.
        I will be upgrading my reg/rec and bypassing the headlight.
        Do you think I got the 16v at the battery because it was basically a no-load test as described in the manual?
        Attached Files
        sigpic 1980 GS550E

        Comment


          #5
          I can't read that, but I'm thinking that a properly functioning regulator would never let the volts going to the battery get above the high 14's, though I am, admittedly, an electrical noob.
          Rich
          1982 GS 750TZ
          2015 Triumph Tiger 1200

          BikeCliff's / Charging System Sorted / Posting Pics
          Destroy-Rebuild 750T/ Destroy-Rebuild part deux

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Vloukole View Post
            Thanks for the response.
            I will be upgrading my reg/rec and bypassing the headlight.
            Do you think I got the 16v at the battery because it was basically a no-load test as described in the manual?
            Nah, it was 16v because something's busted. Shouldn't ever exceed 14.8 totally max, and that would be pushing the envelope.
            ---- Dave

            Only a dog knows why a motorcyclist sticks his head out of a car window

            Comment


              #7
              +1 .It's too small to be both. Definitely funky stuff in the hestory somewhere...
              yes,Rich nailed it. That tiny thing is a "Yamaha XS400 Stanley DE3804 Rectifier only"
              Funnily enough it turned up here:
              Technical Info posts that are deemed to be important or popular will be placed here for easier access. If you feel a post should be moved from the Technical Info forum to here then PM the Administrator with your request.

              Comment


                #8
                I don't know if this is any help but looking at the parts fiche for a '79 GS550E it does have a separate regulator and rectifier. Here's a link to a parts seller page showing the '79 parts but not where they are installed. Image is copywrited so just a link. Could the box right above the Yamaha rectifier be the regulator? #8 is regulator, #17 is rectifier.



                Best to replace both with series type R/R combo as others mentioned, but if you want to get just a bike regulator, the original BMW airheads used separate units also. Euro Moto Electrics (EME) has small regulator only units for about $20.

                High-Quality, Low-Priced Motorcycle Parts: Specializing in Starting, Charging, Cooling, Engine Management & Filtration. BMW Motorcycle Parts, BMW ALL Motorcycle MODELS, AIRHEAD, BMW OILHEAD, BMW HEXHEAD, R100, R80 R75, R50, R60, R65, R45, R90, R1100, R850, R1150, R1200, K100, K75, K1100, K1200, K1300, K1600, Moto Guzzi, Ducati, F650, F700, F800, F750, G310, G450, G650. We carry brands such as BOSCH, MAHLE, MANN, VALEO, NGK, NTK, ENDURALAST, CONTINENTAL CONTITECH, BERU, DYNATEK, WESTCO, DEKA AND MORE, euro moto electrics is known most for our Ducati Energia 450 watt charging system retro-fitted to BMW R Airhead and Moto Guzzi with Bosch 3-phase charging system. Permanent magnet rotor and hi-output stator, by EnDuraLast, r1200, r1200gs, r1200c, r1100, r1100r, r1100rs, r1100gs, r1100s,r1150r, r1150rs, r1150gs, r1150rt, r1200cl, r1200c i, r1200gsw, r1200rtw, r1200rt, r1200rtp, r45, r60, r65, r75, r90, r80, r100, f650, g650, s1000, f700, f800, starter, charging system, upgrade alternator, complete alternator, switches, sensors, gaskets, ignitions,


                Near bottom of page.
                Last edited by hank2; 03-10-2022, 03:19 AM.
                1981 Suzuki GS650G

                Comment


                  #9
                  I am going to replace it with a R/R unit to be safe.
                  Thank you all
                  sigpic 1980 GS550E

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Update:

                    I replaced the rectifier with a new R/R unit. Charging 14.8v at 5000rpm.
                    Is it fine if I just unplugged the headlight loop?
                    sigpic 1980 GS550E

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Vloukole View Post
                      Update:

                      I replaced the rectifier with a new R/R unit. Charging 14.8v at 5000rpm.
                      Is it fine if I just unplugged the headlight loop?
                      Your new R/R is working fine. You can either leave "the loop" alone or bypass it where the stator connects. It is very simple. If you just "unplug it" you will lose one third of your stator's output.

                      Look closely at your wiring diagram and search here for the multitude of threads about "stator loop"

                      Comment

                      Working...
                      X