Removal of gs850g driveshaft seal.

[Moarpower]

Hey guys, I have a 1980 gs850g with the drive shaft seal leak on the engine side. I am at a point where I've removed the rear wheel, the shaft, and everything else, but I just can't get to the seal because the secondary gear assembly is locked in place. I've removed the 4 bolts but she is seized good. Also tried removing the the shaft nut with a rattle gun and that didn't work either.

[Syd]

Are you attempting to remove the secondary drive housing to replace the O ring? If yes, you can loosen the crankcase bolts directly below that housing. Just crack them off, no need to fully remove them. That will relieve the tension of the upper an lower cases on the secondary drive housing and "should" allow you to pop that housing out.

[Moarpower]

Thanks mate. That's what I was looking for.
I thought it was the seal that was leaking but it appears to be cracked on the round aluminum mounting plate. Engine is fine. I'll need to order the whole new assembly on eBay. I think that's the cheapest route being from Australia

[salty_monk]

That's a good tip.. let us know how you get on! Good luck!

[Moarpower]

Well after ordering a replacement seal with, I was disappointed to find that it doesn't fit. Dimensions are quite different even tho the part number corresponds. 1980 gs850g.
09283-32017-000 is the part I received. It has to large a diameter just slightly

[Moarpower]

The original seal reads NOK AH2068F. The replacement is KELPRO

[bwringer]

I'm seeing part number 09283-35018, NOT 09283-35017:

https://www.onlinecycleparts.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d40162f8700230d8b4e49b/secondary-drive-gear

It looks like this seal stayed consistent 1979-1983 on all the shafties.

It also looks like it's NLA, at least in the US of A. Dang.


Three things:

- This seal rarely, if ever actually wears out. The usual cause of a leak is an issue with the bearing or with the nut holding the drive flange on to the shaft, allowing the shaft to move around and destroy the seal. Make sure all is well with the hard parts.

- You should be able to take measurements of the bore, the shaft diameter, and the seal thickness and get a compatible seal from an industrial metric seal supplier. Oil seals are fairly standardized, and it's quite rare for Suzuki to spec some sort of wildly exotic part for simple functions like this.

For example, this one (oddly enough called "Metric Seals Inc.") happens to be be near me, so look for a similar supplier in Australia or accessible to you:

https://www.metricsealsinc.com/

- Close the loop... please come back here to share the measurements and how you obtained the replacement seal!



Edit: a little Googlery uncovered this page from our Dutch hoarder pals giving the dimensions:

https://www.cmsnl.com/products/seal-oil35x52x9_0928335018/

So from that we can glean that it's a 52mm bore, 35mm shaft, and 9mm width.

Which turns out to be a pretty standard size.

Here in the US, I could have one on my doorstep the next business day from McMaster-Carr for a mere $6.91 plus tax and a few bucks for shipping:

https://www.mcmaster.com/1199N323/

Note that this seal's thickness is given as 8mm, requiring a minimum 8.3mm bore depth; this will make no difference whatsoever in operation. At worst, if the original really is 9mm thick, the seal lip might end up in a slightly different spot on the shaft.