GS100G clutch

[chuck hahn]

leave the one with wire alone. Just change friction plates and put on a new cover gasket. As was mentioned new springs wont hurt either.

[Nessism]

What specific oil? Most won't hurt the clutch, despite what some people say about the need for MA2 oil.

Count me as someone against cheap china clutch friction plates. I'd go EBC, OEM, or some known good higher end brand. Good chance the springs alone will solve the problem. Use grease on the gasket, and if the springs don't cut it, you can always go back in and change the friction discs later. And while you are at it, be sure to lubricate, or change, the clutch cable. With only 20k on the bike, the cable should be okay, though.

[Alexander]

I have carefully considered your advice and thank you.
I decided to first evaluate the actual conditions of the elements and then replace with the same OEM ones.
Same goes for the oil, out with synthetic and go with mineral.
For now I have ordered:

TRW Lucas MEF106-6 reinforced springs kit.

4T Bel-Ray 10W-40 EXL 4lt oil.

Crankcase gasket.

I will try to proceed like this. I remove the oil and disassemble the clutch, I inspect the elements, hoping that they are still usable, as someone says,
even if they have 20,000 KM and if I don't see anything abnormal, I degrease the discs to remove the previous oil and reassemble everything.
Then I evaluate, if the discs are very worn, I replace them. In your opinion, at this point is it better to also replace the steel discs or could these still hold?
thanks

[Grimly]

I have carefully considered your advice and thank you.
I decided to first evaluate the actual conditions of the elements and then replace with the same OEM ones.
Same goes for the oil, out with synthetic and go with mineral.
For now I have ordered:

TRW Lucas MEF106-6 reinforced springs kit.

4T Bel-Ray 10W-40 EXL 4lt oil.

Crankcase gasket.

I will try to proceed like this. I remove the oil and disassemble the clutch, I inspect the elements, hoping that they are still usable, as someone says,
even if they have 20,000 KM and if I don't see anything abnormal, I degrease the discs to remove the previous oil and reassemble everything.
Then I evaluate, if the discs are very worn, I replace them. In your opinion, at this point is it better to also replace the steel discs or could these still hold?
thanks

Forty year old springs lose tension from just sitting, no matter what mileage is on them.
The fricition plates may be glazed, but again forty year old plates aren't trustworthy - they might start to fall apart and could clog up your oil pickup strainer. Not worth the risk.

[Alexander]

Forty year old springs lose tension from just sitting, no matter what mileage is on them.
The fricition plates may be glazed, but again forty year old plates aren't trustworthy - they might start to fall apart and could clog up your oil pickup strainer. Not worth the risk.

I will definitely get 9 new clutch discs, I just wanted to see them first. I also wanted to see how the steel discs are before spending more money. Maybe I'll find out that it was simply the oil and the package is still perfect and I'll save something! It already happened with the little sister GS 550 E, taken with 6000 Mi and replaced only the bare minimum, o-rings, pads, various rubbers, everything else was dismantled and restored, a lot of labor but little expense.

[Nessism]

When you open the clutch, this is what you will find: The friction plates will look perfect, and measure in spec. Again, in most cases, all you need is new springs and the clutch will work just fine. That said, the friction plates are more than 40 years old at this point. The friction material tends to petrify with all the years, so replacing them won't hurt. Mind you, it may not be needed per se, either. I've never replaced a friction disc on any UJM bike I've ever fixed, other than a GS1000, where the clutch dragged, making finding neutral difficult. The clutch plates measured fine, and didn't slip, but they were slightly warped, which increased drag.

[rphillips]

My guess you'll find nothing wrong with the plates, fiber nor steel regardless of age. Just say'in if you lay a fiber plate down and look at it, you'll probably not see a crack even if there's one there. It will be almost invisible as the edges fit tight right back together. Kind'f gently twist on each of them, if crack is there those edges will pop right apart. The edges of the little "dogs" around the outer edge of the fiber plates will probably be flattened a little, that's just normal.

[Alexander]

even though it is not so exploited, certainly the years play an important role and once dismantled, it is worth renewing the clutch discs regardless, what do I do, take the original ones or do you have any advice on equally valid spare parts, at obviously lower costs? thanks

[chuck hahn]

As i think i said i use a lot of CALTRIC parts on many brands of my customers bikes. Thet have proven to me over the years to be quality supplier.

[Alexander]

As i think i said i use a lot of CALTRIC parts on many brands of my customers bikes. Thet have proven to me over the years to be quality supplier.

even though it is not so used, certainly the years play an important role and once dismantled,
it is advisable to renew the clutch discs and springs regardless. In the end I purchased 9 OEM clutch discs,
I wanted to ruin myself

[rphillips]

No doubt you're the type that want everything as renewed as possible just to be assured you'll have no problems. No doubt a very good way of thinking. One more thought, the clutch cable is by far the most common clutch related problem that may leave you stranded. While addressing clutch, add a new cable and you'll shouldn't need to think of the word "clutch" for a long time... luck to ya.

[Alexander]

No doubt you're the type that want everything as renewed as possible just to be assured you'll have no problems. No doubt a very good way of thinking. One more thought, the clutch cable is by far the most common clutch related problem that may leave you stranded. While addressing clutch, add a new cable and you'll shouldn't need to think of the word "clutch" for a long time... luck to ya.

the cable was the first thing i changed, but i actually have to see if the path is correct and not force somewhere. Once i disassemble everything i will be able to see the state.