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brake line leak!

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    brake line leak!

    I was fartin around on the electrical system yesterday and noticed a bit of brake fluid had leaked out of my new stainless line and dripped onto the tire.

    The leak occurred at the bottom connection, just above the caliper. Bike was rolled to a spot in my front yard where I work on it. Squeezed the front brake once when i got her to her spot.

    It seems that the screw had backed off (vibration?). I wonder if I should have used threadlocker after all?

    #2
    No.
    Use a new crush washer, it shouldn't leak or back out.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

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      #3
      There was no crush washer between the banjo and the line.
      Just to clarify, the leak occurred at the thread where the brake line connects to the banjo at the centre of the photo, not where the banjo connects to the caliper.

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        #4
        On that type of fitting you should re tighten them after installation. You don't want to use thread locker

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          #5
          Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
          On that type of fitting you should re tighten them after installation. You don't want to use thread locker
          I agree. Thread locker would not have prevented a leak, that is not its purpose, and you do not want to run the risk of it entering your brake hydraulics. Did you snug it back down and the leak stopped?

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            #6
            Are those Goodrich lines?

            Goodrich lines use a flare fitting between the banjo and the factory hose-end. These flares are metal on metal seals and require a good deal of torque to seat/seal because they seal distorting the metal and smashing it together. I have a set of these for my latest project but honestly, I prefer the Earl's bolt-on hose-ends since they have less joints and use ferrules to seal which is very secure.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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              #7
              Originally posted by Nessism View Post
              Are those Goodrich lines?

              Goodrich lines use a flare fitting between the banjo and the factory hose-end. These flares are metal on metal seals and require a good deal of torque to seat/seal because they seal distorting the metal and smashing it together. I have a set of these for my latest project but honestly, I prefer the Earl's bolt-on hose-ends since they have less joints and use ferrules to seal which is very secure.
              agreed. these were also twice the price. hindsight is 20/20.
              Russell lines. they ARE beautifully finished.

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                #8
                I tightened up pretty good and took it out for another 250km. It seems as though a bit fluid seeped out. No noticeable loss in the MC/never below the low line.
                I suppose I am thinking of removing the line and cleaning the fluid off the threads and reinstalling. Is this overkill?

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