It runs, yay!!! But wait...

[Steve]

Yeah, your carb sync could be off, but also remember that there are more than two positions for the "choke".

You do not have to pull it all the way to engage it, you can place it anywhere in the middle, too.

Have you verified yet that your bike does, indeed, have o-rings in the intake tubes?

.

[Adler]

Yeah, your carb sync could be off, but also remember that there are more than two positions for the "choke".

You do not have to pull it all the way to engage it, you can place it anywhere in the middle, too.

Have you verified yet that your bike does, indeed, have o-rings in the intake tubes?

.

Yup, I responded in the other thread, http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=163488

[Adler]

Probably related to carb synch being off, for some reason my throttle rocker (or whatever its called) doesnt contact the idle adjust screw, it goes above it and will not go lower.


It was damn hard to get a picture of that...

[Ola]

Looks like the throttle cable is binding or the adjustment screw is too tight. The adjustment screw is not on the throttle, but where you attach the throttle cable to the rack. It is quite fiddly to get right.

[Adler]

Looks like the throttle cable is binding or the adjustment screw is too tight. The adjustment screw is not on the throttle, but where you attach the throttle cable to the rack. It is quite fiddly to get right.

But that picture is with it off the bike!

[Ola]

Oh! Sorry about that. Internet Speedy Advice Syndrome, posting before reading properly. Is the rocker bent or sticking in any way?

[Adler]

I thought about a bent rocker, so i switched it for another rocker from a spare carb set, same deal... (I thought of using the other set of carbs, but it wouldn't start with them, so I figured Id be better off troubleshooting these)

[SqDancerLynn1]

You need to go back and start over. Take the carbs off and with the idle screw backed out, Adjust the #3 carb slide so that it is closed- no light coming thru.. Then adjust the idle screw up until the #3 carb is open maybe 1/16" Then using a 1/16 drill bit adjust the rest to match will get you into the ballpark. Bottom fuel screw about 5/8th turn out, side air screw about 2-2.5 turns out. Put it back together..

Don't forget to turn the idle back down !!!

[Adler]

You need to go back and start over. Take the carbs off and with the idle screw backed out, Adjust the #3 carb slide so that it is closed- no light coming thru.. Then adjust the idle screw up until the #3 carb is open maybe 1/16" Then using a 1/16 drill bit adjust the rest to match will get you into the ballpark. Bottom fuel screw about 5/8th turn out, side air screw about 2-2.5 turns out. Put it back together..

I agree, and I will do this as soon as I get me my carb kit.

[SqDancerLynn1]

Don't forget to turn the idle back down !!!

[Steve]

You need to go back and start over. Take the carbs off and with the idle screw backed out, Adjust the #3 carb slide so that it is closed- no light coming thru. ...

Bench syncing the carbs is always a good idea, but in this case, #3 is not the "master" carb.

On the VM carbs, it really doesn't matter, there is no "master" carb, as they all come off the same throttle rod that lifts the slides. Also, 1/16" is a BIG measurement. It is much easier to guage a very small opening rather than judge the variances around a larger distance. I just go for a very small sliver of light under the slide and adjust them so they are all about the same.

... Bottom fuel screw about 5/8th turn out, side air screw about 2-2.5 turns out.

The stock setting for the fuel screw is about 5/8 turn, most find that setting it to 3/4 turn works a bit better. Not so sure about the air screw being so far out, either. A good starting point is double what the fuel screw is. When the engine is warmed up, adjust the air screw for highest engine idle speed.

.

[MrSelfdestruct]

I'd bet that your carbs are really far out of balance...like to the point that one or two of the slides are adjusted so far down that they are completely closed and holding the other two open, not allowing the throttle-adjust screw to engage - hence one side of the exhaust getting hot and not the other (one or two of your throttles are completely closed and thus not firing), and the crazy high idle (two throttles being help open). I would just pull the carbs off and do a bench sync for starters. it looks like you've already got the top covers off anyway.