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    #16
    re

    Originally posted by posplayr View Post
    I will only use a HF torque wrench



    Sorry that is what I have and I have calibrated them when doing something precise and they are always repeatable. Remember 10% accuracy is all you need when dealing with the variation in bolt torque.

    Checking the accuracy is a good idea, my cheapie was accurate. I am lucky enough to have some high end US made torque wrenches off of the tool trucks, that I bought in the past. I just picked up the HF unit as a beater so I could keep the good stuff put up. My sons tend to not care for tools as good as I would, and the HF was hung on the board with the common shop tools.

    But, now when I hear, dad where is the torque wrench I point at the HF instead of the $$$$ torque wrench. I will say that as the years go by I have learned to really like good inexpensive tools, hate paying to much for anything. So I wont go so far as to say I will only use HF I will say it seems to be a good usable tool, even though it is easy to miss the small thud, as opposed to the crisp click the better tools have. Having a good functional tool is light years ahead of no tool at all. So that gives me lots of respect for the decent HF stuff.

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      #17
      Yeah I grew up with Hf. My dad never really sprung for high end tools. HF is HF. HF can be good and then sometimes you can get a bad tool from HF. I think its more abotu knowing where you can go cheap, and knowing when you have to spring for the good stuff. The fact that you have to be in the right position to read a beam style is what is putting me off from them mostly. So for now, i think im going to go with the HF clicker. I really appreciate everyones input.

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        #18
        I have one & it's accurate enough for what I need.....

        Anyone ever use one of their digital ones? I suspect these to be more accurate much as the beam type as it can be zero'd as well. They had them cheap a year or so back, almost wish I'd got one now.

        Dan
        1980 GS1000G - Sold
        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

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          #19
          wellllll.......i checked out the HF clickers this past weekend. I was not impressed. Everyone that i picked up and checked with a wrench i brought just felt sloppy. the click was terrible. So i went to sears and picked up a beam style. I love that thing. I used it this weekend and it was great. Id recommend it for anyone. I only wish they had a dual head so you dont have to lay on your back to read it when torquing anythign underneath what your working on.
          Last edited by Guest; 09-21-2010, 03:48 PM. Reason: duh, fat fingers

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            #20
            Transfer your own marks to the back side... it's not that hard to do.
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #21
              what would i do about the pointer and beam? Im sure it wouldnt be as accurate?

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                #22
                I bought one from Autozone for like $20 or 30?

                And it works.......but it seems very inconsistent sometimes, I've tested it on many occasions.

                Plus, the one I have only has Inch Pounds, and has a limited range for Inch Lbs. It seems like every time I need to torque something, the TQ #'s are just too low for my wrench, or too high!

                The more expensive wrenches typically include a much broader range of available TQ #'s.
                -------

                I would just recommend saving up for a REAL torque wrench, not a junker.

                I almost made the same mistake buying my first welder.
                I just didn't wanna dump a ton of cash, but I also didn't wanna get burned.
                So I saved up and got something decent for a nice chunk of change, and I couldn't be happier.

                There are tons of things to "cheap" out on.....but something like a precision instrument just ISN'T one of them!

                I mean if you're just using it for a junky GS(haha), then I'm sure it's fine.
                But I wouldn't trust it if you're doing real mechanical work like Cylinder Heads, Rocker Bolts, Intake bolts, Trannys,etc.....

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                  #23
                  i have a sears clicker and it does ok. i quit using a torque wrench of ANY kind on covers. keeping wheel nuts and bolts, and the like, in check is the extent of the depth i go anymore. but, i gues it became a habit to release tension after each use.

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