Torque wrench

[shiznizbiz]

Has anyone ever used this model from harbor frieght? If so how was it? Its kind of a, I dont feel like waiting for one to come in the mail, and i dont want to fork over too much money. Of course if its no good, ill go better.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eighth-inch-drive-click-stop-torque-wrench-807.html

[Dogma]

Works fine for me. I also grabbed the other two sizes.

The beam-style wrenches are also inexpensive, and very robust. You never have to worry about the calibration.

[shiznizbiz]

sweet. thanks. Looks like daddy's gonna pick up a new tool for the weekend assembly.

[bwringer]

A Craftsman beam-type torque wrench from Sears is about $25 and is far more trustworthy and durable. Simple, no moving parts, and accurate even when abused.

I'm not a big fan of clickers, even the expensive ones. If you look at the directions, you're supposed to unload the spring before storing. This gets rather tedious, and it's easy to forget.

[Mop Bucket]

I bought the harbor frieght ones and they are ok. Don't have any experience with any other wrench to compare. Since I am a weekend wrencher they work for me. Only thing I don't like about them is the lock to hold the torque value in place slips on me. Also, since I never used one before I didn't realize it was click and over tightened.

[shiznizbiz]

hmmmm........im used to using a beam type. But I dont know about any of the procedures as far as calibrating or storage. Ive always used my fathers beam type and it wasnt in the greatest shape. the beam was bent, and the pointer was screwed up. i guess thats due to improper storage...buuut i digress. Now i have a new question. Is the craftsman beam type pretty accurate? and does it stay accurate? This whole unloading the spring and calibration is turning me off..

[Nessism]

hmmmm........im used to using a beam type. But I dont know about any of the procedures as far as calibrating or storage. Ive always used my fathers beam type and it wasnt in the greatest shape. the beam was bent, and the pointer was screwed up. i guess thats due to improper storage...buuut i digress. Now i have a new question. Is the craftsman beam type pretty accurate? and does it stay accurate? This whole unloading the spring and calibration is turning me off..

Beam type a dead reliable. If the pointer gets bent, bend it back to zero and go to work. Down side to beam type is they are a little less accurate than a properly calibrated clicker type, maybe +/- 10% vs. +/- 5%. The most accurate are the dial type which are about 10x the money.

[duaneage]

Any torque wrench beats freehanding. I assemble everything with two torque wrenches and a list of the specs collected from the manual. I found a friends wheel at only 20 Lbs on the axle bolt when it called for 66. From a shop no less.

Don;t try to do small numbers with a large wrench. get a inch pound wrench that goes from 0 - 240 inch pouinds ( 0 - 20 lbs/ft) for oil drain plugs, case bolts, and other things around 5 - 10 lbs that are easy to snap. Nothing ruins your day like a stripped bolt.

[shiznizbiz]

interesting. SO with a beam type, is user consistency is a huge factor in accuracy?

[FormerBMWguy]

Accurate to plus/minus 4%? If not, you can return it for recalibration next time you're in Tinsin. Bargain-priced Chinese junk is still Chinese junk.

[Steve]

Works fine for me. I also grabbed the other two sizes. ...

I happened to be in there when the torque wrenches were on sale. Got all three sizes (1/4", 3/8", 1/2") for a total of about $50.
Have not checked them against any kind of calibration (yet) so I don't know how far off they are.

I'm not a big fan of clickers, even the expensive ones. If you look at the directions, you're supposed to unload the spring before storing. This gets rather tedious, and it's easy to forget.

If I was a line mechanic at a dealership and used my torque wrenches every day, yes, the tedium would get to me, but I use my torque wrenches but a few times a year. The few extra seconds it takes to set them, then unload them is not much of a problem.

Other points to consider: Yes, the beam are a bit or accurate, but you also have to be inline to be able to read the scale. Being off-angle can give you some interesting results.

[Texasgs]

re

I bought the exact one about a month ago, and compared it to a snapon, to check to see if it was accurate. It reads well, and is accurate. What I didn't like about it is its click, isn't a pronounced hard click. It is more of a muffled thud, that could easily be missed. So just watch out for that. If they are all like mine you could miss the click, and over tighten a bolt. It appears to be a great tool for the money.

[posplayr]

I bought the exact one about a month ago, and compared it to a snapon, to check to see if it was accurate. It reads well, and is accurate. What I didn't like about it is its click, isn't a pronounced hard click. It is more of a muffled thud, that could easily be missed. So just watch out for that. If they are all like mine you could miss the click, and over tighten a bolt. It appears to be a great tool for the money.

I will only use a HF torque wrench



Sorry that is what I have and I have calibrated them when doing something precise and they are always repeatable. Remember 10% accuracy is all you need when dealing with the variation in bolt torque.

[duaneage]

A bigger variable is the condition of the threads. If the hole or theads of the bolt are not clean it can have a big effect on torque readings. I use a tap and die set to clean threads on critical stuff.

[four_shot]

A bigger variable is the condition of the threads. If the hole or theads of the bolt are not clean it can have a big effect on torque readings. I use a tap and die set to clean threads on critical stuff.

Definately important.

I wouldn't worry so much about calibrating it as remembering to unload it when your done. unless your a pro constantly torqueing things down all the time the calibration shouldn't (<--Disclaimer ) be an issue. (Assuming it was calibrated correctly from the factory.)