Powder coating

[tomo]

Been thinking about stripping down my 79 GS750 this winter, so am debating whether to get the frame powder coated or just paint it. I`ve had a look at previous posts using the search feature, but still have a few (probably very dumb) questions to ask about powder coating!. First off, is it worth loose fitting any bolts back on the frame, I`ve heard a few tales of threads getting coated and while I know they could be cleaned out with a thread chaser I`d rather avoid that hassle. Wonder also if any of the other Brits can advise on the cost, a few powder coaters nearby but their prices vary a lot, what should I expect to pay to get a good job done ?. Anything else I need to watch out for if getting pc done ?.

[sharpy]

Ive always gone for the painted frame. Just as good if you do it right and wont hide any cracks that appear on your 30 year old frame. And touch ups are a lot easier. And ive had 3rd place in my class twice at Laverda Concource where i live so must look ok. Just about to redo mine (after 10 yrs) and last time was painted by spray can using rust proof black enamel.

[Bladerunner]

Powder coating is nice, but it can be much more expensive, time consuming if you have to chase threads (as you mentioned), and the turn-around/wait time can be long.

I advise going with painting. I have found powdercoating is really best only if you are doing a concours quality restoration or building a show quality custom bike.

Do yourself a big favor and just paint the damn thing. If your frame is in fairly good shape, degrease it and once its clean (not stripped), scuff it really well with a green scotch-brite pad. If it is rusty, then remove all the rust down to the bare metal and re-coat with an off-the-shelf etching primer. Once the frame is scuffed or primed, then paint it with either a high quality, gloss black Implement Enamel (yes the stuff they paint tractors with) or appliance epoxy. I recommend Van Sickel Implement enamel, or Rustoleum appliance epoxy. Do a search for both. The Implement enamel or appliance epoxy are extremely tough finishes once cured.

Once sprayed, they both will take the better part of 2-3 days to fully cure, unlike the Krylon crap a lot of people try to use with poor results. Both paints I just mentioned are extremely durable and resistant, offer very high gloss and smoothness, are readily available and cheap, and allow you to do the project at your time frame and within a reasonable amount of time with limited hassle.

Hope that helps.

Trent

[SVSooke]

Bladerunner do they have those paints in silver?The frame on my 85 GS750EF (Canadian model) is silver.While I'm asking are they in spray cans or tins.Have a spray gun so either way is good for me.

[hampshirehog]

Well, I'll disagree with the other guys and say powder coating. If you find some guys who regularly do bikes they'll know what to do about the threads / headstock / swinging arm bolt / rear suspension top mount post etc. If in doubt dab some red paint on the bits you want masked up. I've got some local guys who have been doing my bikes for years and once it's done that's it - pretty much forever. Doesn't chip or flake if done properly.

I pay £80 for a frame or £160 for the frame, swinging arm, brackets, yokes, foot rests, etc (all the black bits), - price obviously includes media blasting. No VAT if you pay in cash.......

My next project (CB650 cafe racer - yeah I know, no kickstart ) will be heading in for powder coating this side of christmas hopefully - I wouldn't even consider paint.

Oh, and use Vaseline on the rear lower engine mounts when re-fitting the motor. That gap will be a tiny bit smaller and you'll need something slippery to help you drop the engine in.

[chuck hahn]

Suzuki never powder coated any frames so i just use the VHT gloss black epoxy and it looks factory. If you are gonna send it out to be powder coated then get a set of spare bolts for every spot on the frame and have it coated with them installed.. Back out the bolts and all the threads will then be clean and free of any debris.

[waltfen]

As you are in the UK I would get it powder coated and use these guys.

http://www.triple-s.co.uk/

They are the best in the UK and they do all the masking etc. for you. They are more expensive then the others out there but you pay for quality.

[Agemax]

powder coating is far better than any finish you can get from a rattle can or even a spray booth. it is very chip resistant, gets shot blasted first so it will clean up any rust from the tiniest crevice on the frame, will last forever and the colour choice is almost infinate nowadays, pearls, metalflake etc etc.
as Wally says if you get it done, take as many brackets, engine mounts, what ever you can find and get them done at the same time, works out cheaper

[tomo]

Thanks for all the advice everyone. Guess there are pros and cons for both powder coating and painting, so I`ve got a bit of weighing up to do !.

[SVSooke]

As per Bladerunners reconendation I found

And my frame went from this

To this

A good tough finish to,very happy with it!

[bobthebiker88]

personally, I'll take powdercoating any day. for one reason. on those frames, powdercoating removes paint, which exposes and kills rust, and should there be any cracking, it becomes evident during the media blasting process.

powdercoat is also FAR stronger than rattlecan paint, which is a huge advantage on the lower sections that are prone to rusting.

plus powdercoat doesnt start flaking off unless the person who did the job really really sucks.

[Smokinapankake]

+ 1 for powdercoat. I guess it boils down to one thing:
Which would you rather spend - time or money?
For me it was money, and I got a pretty good deal to boot. Can't remember exactly now but it was around 400 bux for the frame, wheels, swingarm, fork lowers, and rotors. They masked it all off, using silicone plugs in the threaded holes. They recommended I chase all the threads, but I didn't even have to do that. I did take a countersink bit and cut down the little ridge that built up around the silicone plugs, but that was maybe a half hour of fooling around with it.

I dropped it all off just after Christmas last year, picked the whole mess up just after new years' day.

I imagine you could spend just as much money and way more time to do it yourself.

PC every time - its way strong, looks great, and lasts forever.
Just my .02

[sandman]

I have found powdercoating is really best only if you are doing a concours quality restoration or building a show quality custom bike.

Trent, I'll have to disagree. Some of my bikes are show bikes, and I paint the frames on those for the originality of the final appearance vs. powdercoat. Powdercoat is 40X as thick as paint, and looks it. It usually looks "thick", "plasticky" and wrong compared to paint, and can be spotted a mile away. Since I think we're talking about a practical rider in this case, not a show bike, I say powdercoat is the long term best and most cost effective way to go.

[wdavie]

I've used a powdercoating place near Durham but buggered if I can remember their name, also I know a guy who builds trikes and he gets his powdercoating done in Washington I think and speaks highly of them, if you're interested in getting it done locally let me know and I'll get the numbers for you. Cheers Wayne