Adjustment

[Black Knight]

My 1100gld has a chain slap that is noticed at mid to high rpm . I've located the adjuster but the push rod will not move either way . i've lightly tapped on the push rod end and still no give . My ? is this if i remove the adjuster from the block will it cause the cam chain to drop or will the chain guide keep it from falling ? .

[Larry D]

The cam chain tensioner does not need to be manually adjusted, it adjusts itself automatically, if it's the stock one.


Here's how to rebuild one with new o-rings. It will help you figure out how it works.

http://www.bwringer.com/gs/camchaintens.html

[BassCliff]

Hi,

In addition to Mr. bwringer's fine rebuild article, also check out this procedure:

Reset Cam Chain Tensioner


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Black Knight]

Larry

So what you'r telling me is i can't adjust the chain manually ? . Then why is there a spring inside the housing? It would seem to me is it has the lock bolt and set screw i should be able to take the housing off and clean the part's and take the slack out so the slap will go away .

The book shows the push rod with spring and it can be adjusted to take out the slack .

[Larry D]

Larry

So what you'r telling me is i can't adjust the chain manually ? . Then why is there a spring inside the housing? It would seem to me is it has the lock bolt and set screw i should be able to take the housing off and clean the part's and take the slack out so the slap will go away .

The book shows the push rod with spring and it can be adjusted to take out the slack .

Yes, I'm telling you that......there's a spring there so the plunger stays tightly against the cam chain guide and in turn the cam chain....automatically.

Read the links provided and educate yourself some.

[Steve]

The adjuster also has a type of one-way mechanism that is supposed to prevent the pushrod from coming back. This means that the adjuster will continue to take up the slack as things wear.

Normally, you can not reach the pushrod when the adjuster is installed. How are you tapping on it? The rebuild article in the link show you how to ensure that it wis working correctly, and I think it also tells you how to install it properly, but many people don't read it correctly, so let me relay it here, it might save you some aggravation.

While the adjuster is removed from the engine, push the plunger IN to the housing. You will have to rotate the large knob on the side to allow it to go against the one-way mechanism. When it is fully comprssed, turn the set screw on the left side to hold the pushrod in place. Put the adjuster into place and bolt it in. Rotate the engine a bit in the FORWARD direction to ensure slack on the back side of the chain. Release the set screw, allowing the pushrod to take up the slack. Turn the set screw IN again until it stops, then back it OUT about 1/2 turn and lock it into that position with the lock nut. Rotate the engine again, this time going at least two full turns to make sure you are not hearing any strange noises or feeling anything "wrong".

It is entirely possible that the adjuster was put into place and the set screw not loosened to allow the pushrod to move. Try that first, before removing it to clean and reset it completely. Loosen the lock nut, loosen the set screw. Turn the set screw IN. If it goes IN farther than it came OUT, it was not set correcly before and might be now.

.

[Black Knight]

Steve

Look's to me there is a spot like an opening on the very end of the adjuster housing . It could be a block cap that's where i've been lightly tapping at .

Is it ok to pull the adjuster off so i can clean it and make the adjustment to the chain w/o dropping the chain and cause damage ?

[Steve]

Yes, you can pull it off, but you will also need to take off the ignition cover on the right end of the crank so you can turn it over by hand.

Fortunately for you, you do not need to remove the carbs on an 1100 to remove the cam chain tensioner. You may need a new gasket to put it back on, but you can cut one from a cereal box, if necessary.

Inspect the device, replace parts as necessary, re-assemble it so the notch in the side of the pushrod faces the set screw. Compress the pushrod, lock it in place. Do a test run with your fingers. Hold the pushrod to keep it from flying out. Loosen the set screw, allow the pushrod to come out a bit, then tighten the set screw. Note that the pushrod can not move. Loosen the set screw 1/2 turn, the pushrod will now extend to the limit of the notch in its side.

You know understand the operation, so compress it again, lock it in place and install it.

.

[Black Knight]

Steve

Thanx for the info that's all i needed to know ...

[bwringer]

FWIW, some mistaken misguided mechanic has tightened the set screw on about half the cam chain tensioners I've encountered. This renders the tensioner useless, and can lead to problems if it's not corrected.

Please: the set screw must be backed off by half a turn so that the tensioner can do its job.


Also, it's entirely possible (a lot more possible, actually) that your bike is simply running roughly for some other reason and making the cam chain slap around a bit. You might simply need to synchronize the carburetors, or you might have a teensy vacuum leak in one or more cylinders. Or perhaps the vacuum line to the petcock is split, or there's an issue with one of the intake boots or o-rings. Maybe one of the airbox boots slipped a bit.

[Black Knight]

I'll adjust that set screw so the rod can move freely ...As far as the carb's go there being rebuilt and will be adjusted this weekend . My buddy has informed me that the PO had the air/fuel screw's barely screwed in and # 2 carb didn't have a float needle . But he'll adjust the float's and sync the carb's so the HC's will be low enough to pass the state EPA test which is 5.00 or lower .

I trust the guy since he's hard core biker ( Rides harley) But likes the jap bikes as well .