Valve shims

[mike10]

In spite of all the hooplah about metric feeler gauges (and I'm not downplaying them), I have two sets of INCH feelers that have metric equivalents on them. The smallest is 0.0015", which is ever so slightly larger than the minimum clearance of 0.0012". But, I figure that by the time the valve gets tight enough to not pass the 0.0015" feeler, it's too tight anyway, so I change the shim.

I am also in the group that feels that slightly larger clearances are good. Instead of using .03 to .08mm as my range, I tend to keep them between .04 and .10mm. I also have a selection of "X" shims that allow me to fine-tune my clearances into the upper half of the range.

Looking at it in a very practical manner, the only time it helps to know the exact measurement is when you work on a bike for the first time. After that, you know that they started in good shape. Our valves tend to tighten up with use, so pass the thinnest feeler through. If it passes, you are above the minimum. Now try the largest feeler. If it stops, you are less than the maximum. As long as you are 'in the window', you are good to go.

.

I have tried the inch .0015 and it will not fit through the tight clearances I marked .04mm. I was not clear about the .04mm not fitting through in my first post. They are too tight. I am going to put some blades together and try to find out just how big my big ones .10mm are .15mm will not go through. So they are between .10mm and .15mm. I know what I mean in my head, but it,s hard to make it clear to others sometimes.

[cowboyup3371]

A .10mm is bigger than a .03mm so if your .04 won't go through than of course the .10mm won't either. Or am I missing something else?

[mike10]

A .10mm is bigger than a .03mm so if your .04 won't go through than of course the .10mm won't either. Or am I missing something else?

I have 4 valves with clearances smaller than .04mm and 4 valves with clearances that are bigger than .10mm. That,s all

[Texas Don]

Try here

http://cgi.ebay.com/Metric-Gap-Thickness-Feeler-Gauge-Blades-0-02-1mm-Tool-/230573159505?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35af3b3451

[mike10]

Valve cover gasket

Is there a re-usable Valve cover gasket for the 1980 GS1000. My 2005 gs500f has a nice rubbery valve cover gasket that comes off real nice. I always tear up the one on the GS1000 and have to get a new one .

[Octain]

Is there a re-usable Valve cover gasket for the 1980 GS1000. My 2005 gs500f has a nice rubbery valve cover gasket that comes off real nice. I always tear up the one on the GS1000 and have to get a new one .

Grease it....
Dont know first hand but others say it works.

[Steve]

Is there a re-usable Valve cover gasket for the 1980 GS1000. My 2005 gs500f has a nice rubbery valve cover gasket that comes off real nice. I always tear up the one on the GS1000 and have to get a new one .

If your tach drive is in the head and not in the valve cover, you can try Real Gasket.

Another solution is to spray the stock gasket with WD-40 before installation.

.

[bwringer]

Here are the feeler gauges I have -- they start at .03mm:

http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-32-blade-dual-reading-combination-feeler-gauge-set

These are metric feelers, but they also have inch measurements marked, which are fairly easy to ignore.

There are at least three or four shops I can think of in Indy that I know stock these, and I've seen a rack of BikeMaster tools at just about every non-Harley bike shoppe I've been in.

GS valve clearances are incredibly small -- the .03mm gauge is barely a piece of foil. It's very, very common for two or more of the thin blades to stick together with the surface tension of the oil (you have to keep them coated with oil anyway to ensure they don't rust, and they pick up plenty of engine oil in the line of duty), so make sure you have good light and if your feeler gauge won't go in or something doesn't make sense, make sure you're only using one at a time.

Also, in case you're wondering, you can't stack two or more feelers to measure a larger clearance. The oil film coating them adds a certain amount of clearance. The oil film doesn't affect accuracy when you're just using one blade, but oil behaves very differently when it's between two flat surfaces. Google oil film strength for more info -- it's what makes engines possible...

[Steve]

GS valve clearances are incredibly small -- the .03mm gauge is barely a piece of foil. ...

Yep. The thickness of a piece of paper is generally accepted as 0.003".
That is basically the same as the maximum clearance for our valves, or 0.08 mm.
That means that the 0.03 mm is less than half a piece of paper.

.

[lurch12_2000]

....Also, in case you're wondering, you can't stack two or more feelers to measure a larger clearance. The oil film coating them adds a certain amount of clearance. The oil film doesn't affect accuracy when you're just using one blade, but oil behaves very differently when it's between two flat surfaces. Google oil film strength for more info -- it's what makes engines possible...

Although I would agree in theory with this, I've successfully done it to determine a range between .127mm and .15mm to better narrow down what shim size I will need to order or swap on many of my adjustments. For final clearance I always have the correct feeler gauge size ranges I need between .038mm and .10mm for final measurement. If doubling up I always wipe both feeler gauges completely clean, press together tightly and then insert to estimate what size I need. There is no substitute for a good set with full size ranges for under $10 but to narrow down what shims you need to order if you don't, doubling up clean feeler gauges will work. I would hate to order wrong size shims and between juggling and calculating new shim sizes needed I've never had to order, reorder, or swap with someone more than 2 shims per valve adjustment job....and some have been more than one size drop (.05mm).

...and yes, that .038mm gauge will wrinkle easily if your not careful, so I usually slide it in at an angle instead of trying to push straight in and have it crumple up because of slight oil resistance (yes it does resist sliding when oil is cold as it should be when checking clearances up here in my 35 degree garage!) on the surface.

[mike10]

Finished

I went to a bike shop in Fairfield, Ca. Got some used shims 4 bucks each I had none to trade. Jim's Cycle Repair, he has a ton of old bikes and parts in his building. Just a narrow path from the front to the back. He also has a barn near Sacramento that is stuffed from top to bottom with bikes and parts. Anyway I got all the valves adjusted. I ordered a valve cover gasket from realgasket re-usable for the life of the bike. I just used the feeler gauges I have. I got the Steve's Spreadsheet so I can keep track now. Thanks Steve and for the help from you other guys.

[gert du prez]

Do as they say...

Hi,

yesterday, finally, after 4 months of struggling with too small shims and some other issues, finished the valve adjustment. Had also finished the 'coil relay modification'. Will still need to synch carbs and colour tune.

the results so far:

BEFORE:

29 year old bike would hardly start after a minute of struggle, even if it was only a day or so that it was driven.

AFTER (without carb synch or colour tune):

cold, wet bike in storage for 4 months started up from the first second. I will repeat: from the first second = 1 touch of the starter button. Old plugs, old fuel,...it did not matter...
Now, I don't know if it is the coil relay mod or the valve adjustment that is mostly assisting (or both equally), but I really don't care...

Listen to what people say on this forum:
- do the R/R swap
- mail Mr. Steve for the valve spreadsheet and use it (meaning, do a valve adjustment)
- buy the RealGaskets
- change those old intake rubber boots (both airbox and engine side)
- do the coil relay modification.
- do the front fork seal replacement

Congratulations ! you have practically bought yourself a new bike !

[gert du prez]

Hell, I didn't even changed the O-rings in the carbs or checked the air filter

[bwringer]

Well done! Woo hooooo!


And I agree -- a GS should start instantly every time, and be ready to ride safely in less than 30 seconds on the coldest morning, with the choke off in less than a minute.

If not, there's a problem.

There's no such thing as a bike that's "tired". Phrases like "well, it is almost 30 years old" or "it's sort of cold-blooded" are excuses. Instead of anthropomorphizing, you have to find and fix the problem(s).

[Larry D]

Great Job !!!

I had to look that one up Brian........

anthropomorphism - the representation of objects as having human form or traits