Valve shims

[gert du prez]

I do not only have to look it up, I have to translate it as well !

[ironfoot]

Great, Mike10! I am in the middle of my 1st valve adjustment also and your outcome is encouraging. When I got my GS1000 it was "cold blooded" and very hard to start on a 20 degree day. The following week it warmed up to 40* with not much better results.

Not to high jack your thread but Gert mentioned this as essential:

"change those old intake rubber boots (both airbox and engine side)"

My next move is to the carbs and I have yet to find anybody who sells the intake boots (engine side) for a GS1000C. Anyone have a source?

[gert du prez]

I bought everything via Z1 enterprises (as here in Belgium you cannot find these via the Suzuki dealer shop).

I now buy anything via Z1, even though it cost me some more on shipping charges and adds 5 days in delay...it is still better than to be treated like hell by an official suzuki dealer (Shims, sir ? we don't do that anymore, that is for bikes like...I dunno, really some time ago ...)

Then my question: 'but what would you do if I brought in my bike for a valve clearance adjustment job ?'
well, then it sounds just like the emptiness in their heads...

so, Z1 is the one you need, even the stuff they don't have for me, they buy and collect these and then make 1 nice package and ship.

[ironfoot]

Thanks, Gert. I have just started ordering parts through Z1, and didn't find the boots in their online catalog. I will contact them and put in a request as you suggest.

The Suzuki dealers here are not much better, they wanted $13 a shim, and $124 for a tappet depression tool

[gert du prez]

that is a good choice.
Chris (from Z1 Enterprises) treats you like a real customer: he will inform you when the goods are in his office, he will inform you when the package is shipped,...

They have also a good knowledge of the GS-series, so state your model so that they can make the link with what you ordered...
No, I don't get an extra discount for the appraisal, they are just worth it...

what I have learned so far:

- realgaskets for the orange breather cover and cylinder valve cover gasket (or how do you call it)
- AN plumbing for the steel hose brake lines (excellent stuff)
- Duaneage for the Honda RR (I made a post about this earlier)
- the carb O-rings set from Mr. Robert Barr (see Basscliff's site)

now I only need someone who can ship me the Aerostich Combat Touring boots and I'm set for the year...

by the way, don't spend the money on a valve tappet depressor, the self-made zip tie is super fast and so ridiculously easy...

One hint from Mr. Steve for the home-made zip tie: use some electrical tape to hold the folded tip of the zip tie together, so that it is not too thick. Otherwise, you will never be able to shove it between the valve and the cylinder head...

[ironfoot]

Yes, I went with the zip tie method shortly after hearing the cost of a tool with $1's worth of material in it. Good tip on the electrical tape; thanks Steve and Gert:-)

[Steve]

...; thanks Steve ...

.....................


.

[bwringer]

by the way, don't spend the money on a valve tappet depressor, the self-made zip tie is super fast and so ridiculously easy...

Uh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the zip-tie method (the outraged howling of cheapskates has taught me to never disparage the mighty zip-tie), but the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

It's only $15-$20 everywhere else.

[Octain]

Uh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the zip-tie method (the outraged howling of cheapskates has taught me to never disparage the mighty zip-tie), but the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

It's only $15-$20 everywhere else.

PLus 9 million dollars shipping.

[Steve]

Uh, I'm not saying there's anything wrong with the zip-tie method (the outraged howling of cheapskates has taught me to never disparage the mighty zip-tie), but the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1... http://www.z1enterprises.com/detail.aspx?ID=1696

It's only $15-$20 everywhere else.

Well, just to let you know, I have the tool.

It's just so frustrating to use the thing.


For those who think "the tool" works well, please let me come observe, to see what I'm doing wrong.

.

[cowboyup3371]

I don't have as much trouble in the inside valves but the outside ones (1 and 4 intake and exhaust) need a little help for the tool to stay against the camshaft. I have taken my tweezers I use to pull the shim out with and held them against the bottom of the tool as I pull it down. This forces it to stay solid against the cam and on top of the bucket. Hard to say, maybe i'll take some pictures this weekend.

[mike10]

engine crank oil seal

Thanks, Gert. I have just started ordering parts through Z1, and didn't find the boots in their online catalog. I will contact them and put in a request as you suggest.

The Suzuki dealers here are not much better, they wanted $13 a shim, and $124 for a tappet depression tool

I needed this oil seal and e-mailed Z1 and asked if they had it. They did, but had to order it. I asked why I could not find it on there web site catalog. I was told they only have in stock parts there, you won't find stuff they have to order.

[mike10]

Valve adjustment

When I was a teenager I knew many kids with these bikes. I don't ever remember any of them ever taking them in to get valves adjusted. I think they just rode them till they quit.

[ironfoot]

the proper shim tool is only $13.60 at Z1...

True, that, but I am on a fixed income.... and cheap. Anyway, the zip tie method worked well.

When I was a teenager I knew many kids with these bikes. I don't ever remember any of them ever taking them in to get valves adjusted. I think they just rode them till they quit.

I think I may have been one of those (although not a teenager); I had a Kaw 650 briefly, and drove it until it started to get out of tune then sold it. I was accustomed to tuning my SOHC 750 Honda with rocker arms, and hated the idea of having to tear the top off just to adjust the valves or pay somebody to do it; I had a family and was cheap (and lazy) then, too. Just a guess, but I bet there are many Suzy's and Kaw's with shims that got put in garages, and left to rot early on, because of this. On the other, hand my brother in-law, who was a teen at the time, adjusted his '78 Z1's valves religiously.

I asked why I could not find it on there web site catalog. I was told they only have in stock parts there, you won't find stuff they have to order.

Good to know, thanks.

[bwringer]

Well, just to let you know, I have the tool.

It's just so frustrating to use the thing.


For those who think "the tool" works well, please let me come observe, to see what I'm doing wrong.

.

OK. My GS850 will be due for a valve check in about 500 miles, but it will be a bit longer before the salt is gone enough to ride it much... Let me know when you'll be over, and I'll stock up on Diet Pepsi.

There is a bit of a knack to using the shim tool, but once you develop the knack, it is undeniably a lot faster than the zip tie (all hail to the mighty zip-tie, which I would never in a million years disparage).

The main trick is to apply a bit of sideways pressure as you're pushing the shim tool into position. This is somewhat counterintuitive, I'll admit.

Also, most people start with the shim tool too far out on the bucket their first 258 tries. Get it closer to the cam lobe -- don't worry about the rib on the tool overlapping the shim.

Sometimes it can be a little difficult to get the shim tool to start rotating around the camshaft, so I push on it with a socket extension or similar blunt tool.

Lastly, I've seen some shim tools that have a prominent casting line right in the middle of the rib. You might want to dress that with a file -- just make sure the rib surface is still flat and at a 90 degree angle afterwards.