Preparing for First Start

[pete]

So, I know I've seen posts about this before, but I just can't seem to get suitable search terms for the results to turn up, so...

I'm getting quite close to firing my 450 up for the first time in, well, quite some years.

I'm currently waiting on some shims to arrive to finish off the valve adjustments, then the valve cover can go on, and I have the carbs ready for cleaning.

So, a couple of final things that I need to clear up before I give it a whirl after finishing the above:

1. Is there anything else I should be checking before putting the valve cover on? I have moly lube on the camshaft lobes and bearing journals and engine oil on the shims and tacho drive. I've just finished rebuilding the rest of it, many more details in my rebuild thread.
2. Aside from testing the starter motor and starter solenoid, what else do I need to test electrically?
3. What electrical components do I actually need at a minimum besides coils and RR? Do I need to hook the stator up? I'll be using a car battery for the first start as I haven't gotten myself a new one yet and won't really need it for a while.
4. What else haven't I thought of?

Any input greatly appreciated as I'm sure I'm missing some really basic stuff here, and I do realise I haven't listed filling with engine oil, but I haven't forgotten that one

As far as the actual firing up goes, I intend to crank it without the spark plug caps on until it gets oil circulating. I doubt I'll have my instruments ready to see the oil light go out, but I figure a couple of minutes of cranking like that should be heaps.

[Steve]

1. Is there anything else I should be checking before putting the valve cover on? I have moly lube on the camshaft lobes and bearing journals and engine oil on the shims and tacho drive. I've just finished rebuilding the rest of it, many more details in my rebuild thread.
   I'll let the professional engine builders chime in here, but I'm not so sure about using Moly in our engines with a wet clutch.
   
2. Aside from testing the starter motor and starter solenoid, what else do I need to test electrically?
   You should test EVERYTHING that will end up on the bike. Do static checks on the stator, coils, ignitor, signals, brake light, headlight.
   
3. What electrical components do I actually need at a minimum besides coils and RR? Do I need to hook the stator up? I'll be using a car battery for the first start as I haven't gotten myself a new one yet and won't really need it for a while.
   If you don't hook up the stator, the R/R won't matter.
   
4. What else haven't I thought of?
   While not directly related to first START (more like first RIDE), don't forget your tires and brakes.
   

Don't just leave the spark plug caps off, leave the plugs out, too. Much easier to prime the oiling system with less cranking resistance.

Don't do your two minutes of cranking in one shot. The starter is not made for that kind of use.


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[pete]

1. Is there anything else I should be checking before putting the valve cover on? I have moly lube on the camshaft lobes and bearing journals and engine oil on the shims and tacho drive. I've just finished rebuilding the rest of it, many more details in my rebuild thread.
   I'll let the professional engine builders chime in here, but I'm not so sure about using Moly in our engines with a wet clutch.
   
2. Aside from testing the starter motor and starter solenoid, what else do I need to test electrically?
   You should test EVERYTHING that will end up on the bike. Do static checks on the stator, coils, ignitor, signals, brake light, headlight.
   
3. What electrical components do I actually need at a minimum besides coils and RR? Do I need to hook the stator up? I'll be using a car battery for the first start as I haven't gotten myself a new one yet and won't really need it for a while.
   If you don't hook up the stator, the R/R won't matter.
   
4. What else haven't I thought of?
   While not directly related to first START (more like first RIDE), don't forget your tires and brakes.
   

Don't just leave the spark plug caps off, leave the plugs out, too. Much easier to prime the oiling system with less cranking resistance.

Don't do your two minutes of cranking in one shot. The starter is not made for that kind of use.


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Cheers for the quick reply Steve!

Hmmm ok to the Moly thing... I just followed what the Clymer said to do. They said don't use STP or similar as that will affect the clutch, use Moly Lube instead.

As for the electrical stuff, I should've elaborated a little...

The bike is nowhere near finished, all I want to do at the moment is make sure the engine rebuild has been done right. If the engine fires up, I'm then going to get my custom exhaust done, get the new shocks and fork springs, new tyres, etc. etc.

However, you did mention igniter... see there's one basic one I missed

No stator, no RR... got it, makes sense

Same deal with the tyres and brakes as the electrics, haven't quite gotten there yet, I'll try to be a little clearer next time with my objective...

Thanks again Steve, this won't happen for another couple of weeks I would say, so still time for others to chip in if there's any other recommendations... I really don't want to screw this up...

Edit: Forgot to acknowledge the plugs and cranking comments. They both also make sense, and you just reminded me I need to get plugs too, must put them on the list. That cranking comment is just common sense to me. Just like when anything's hard to start, you don't sit there cranking forever as that's guaranteed to kill starter and battery. I do understand why it needed to be said though

[rapidray]

The small amount of moly used on the lobes & journals is minimal. Don't worry about that. Plus 1 on having the spark plugs out also. Sounds like everything else is covered pretty well. When you first get it fired have a fan blowing on the engine BEFORE you start it & then turn the idle up to 2000-2500 rpm to circulate oil well the first 15 minutes of run time. This will get it hot enough to get a good heat cycle in it. After that 15 minutes, shut it down, pull the valve cover & drain the oil. After the engine is stone COLD, retorque the head & check your valve adjustment. Put it back together, change the oil filter, add new oil & go ride the thing! Make sure you ride it a little hard during breakin! Google "Motoman Engine Break in" & follow the instructions. It WORKS!!! Good luck & have FUN! Ray.

[pete]

Cheers for that Ray, that's the sort of stuff I'm also looking for.

There'll be quite some time between the first start and riding, but I'll be sure to cover all that off the first time and make sure I do an oil and filter change afterwards and check all those torques and clearances.

I'll also go look at Motoman's info too.

Thanks guys!

[argonsagas]

BEFORE turning it over.....add a teaspoonful of oil in each cylinder. Let it sit there for a few minutes to allow it to spread across the entire upper ring surfaces and piston edges.

Leave the spark plugs out and turn it by hand a couple of times to lubricate the cylinder....use a wrench on the timing nut to turn it.

The residual oil will blow out when you spin the engine with the starter.

As noted, you should do that for a few seconds with the plugs out.

[pete]

BEFORE turning it over.....add a teaspoonful of oil in each cylinder. Let it sit there for a few minutes to allow it to spread across the entire upper ring surfaces and piston edges.

Leave the spark plugs out and turn it by hand a couple of times to lubricate the cylinder....use a wrench on the timing nut to turn it.

The residual oil will blow out when you spin the engine with the starter.

As noted, you should do that for a few seconds with the plugs out.

Cheers for that.

I've heard that one before but wasn't sure if I should do it or not as there is already some oil in the cylinders from assembly.

I'm guessing it won't hurt to pop a little more in there ready for that first bit of cranking.

[pete]

Actually I just realised one question I haven't asked...

I'm going to temporarily put my old exhaust on for the first start. I'm planning on getting a custom exhaust made up, but only after I know it works.

So, putting the old exhaust on... how critical is it to get it on and sealed up right on the exhaust ports? Will it matter if I don't put the new exhaust gaskets on yet and only lightly seat the exhaust bolts?

The stock exhaust is rusted, pitted, missing the left muffler, etc. and does not look pretty, but it will work for a short run to test the engine.

[Suzuki_Don]

Actually I just realised one question I haven't asked...

I'm going to temporarily put my old exhaust on for the first start. I'm planning on getting a custom exhaust made up, but only after I know it works.

So, putting the old exhaust on... how critical is it to get it on and sealed up right on the exhaust ports? Will it matter if I don't put the new exhaust gaskets on yet and only lightly seat the exhaust bolts?

The stock exhaust is rusted, pitted, missing the left muffler, etc. and does not look pretty, but it will work for a short run to test the engine.

Pete the old exhaust will be fine. Put it on and start it up. Before I started mine for the first time I oiled the cylinders and then cranked the engine with the plugs out until the oil pressure light went off (meaning oil had reached all the vital parts of the engine), then replaced the plugs and leads, full choke and hit the starter button. I used a car battery jumpered to my motorcycle battery when cranking to get the oil light to go out for extra oomph.

[pete]

Cheers Don!

I should be all set to go then once the carbs and electrics are back in and I get the few little bits and pieces I still need (like cam cover end caps).

I'll be using a car battery for the moment as I haven't gotten myself a new battery yet, and I'll leave that for a while so it doesn't sit around for months.

[pete]

Wow this thread got old fast!

Anyway, looks like I should have my spark problem solved if I can work these HEI modules out this week.

So, starting without the stock airbox and air filter, can I just chuck something over the intake side of the carbs to restrict the air flow somewhat?

I'm thinking an old open weave rag taped real secure should provide some filtering and restriction for the 15 minutes I need it to run.

However it may be safer to use some cardboard or something to cover maybe 1/2 or 3/4 of the intake as there should be a much slimmer chance of that being sucked into the carbs, although I won't have any filtering then.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? I really don't want to wrestle the airbox on as I have K&N pods on the way and will be doing rejetting and needle adjusting once I get them on and the exhaust built.

The stock air filter is also rather dead and the intake boots for the airbox are covered in some sticky residue I had to clean off the carbs.

[pete]

So no input on this? Has noone done this before? I thought I'd at least get someone telling me I'm a fool and grow a brain...

Got my K&N's today but I don't really want to put them on until I get to rejetting, and in the meantime would really like to restrict the intake somehow...

[Steve]

So, starting without the stock airbox and air filter, can I just chuck something over the intake side of the carbs to restrict the air flow somewhat?

I'm thinking an old open weave rag taped real secure should provide some filtering and restriction for the 15 minutes I need it to run.

I use a shop rag folded in half, then clamped to the carb throats with hose clamps or zip-ties.

It's not much in the way of filtration, but in your garage area that should not matter much. It will even work for a test ride, but not for jetting checks.

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[pete]

I use a shop rag folded in half, then clamped to the carb throats with hose clamps or zip-ties.

It's not much in the way of filtration, but in your garage area that should not matter much. It will even work for a test ride, but not for jetting checks.

.

Thank you kind sir, that will do nicely

It's only to let me run it for those first 15 minutes, so that should be plenty adequate.