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    #1

    'Real Gasket' Valve cover

    Has anyone tried the rubber (RTV) gasket from Real Gasket ? I would be concerned that it might compress more than the factory gasket and mesh the tach drive gear too much 'into' the drive gear on the exhaust cam. Or..not enough mesh if not compressed enough. Just looks like it would be hard to know when it is compressed the right amount for the gears to live. The company says 1-3 ft.lbs. (?) That would be finger tight or very close to it. Just wanting to stop an oil leak (seeping) without destroying the exhaust cam or the driven tach gear. Thanks for any insight you can lend.

    Terry
    1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.
    Tags: None
    #2
    If your tach drive is in the head, it works quite well.

    If your tach drive is in the valve cover, it's not such a good idea.

    Yes, the torque is VERY light on it. Think of using oily fingers to turn a 3" extension for your 10 mm socket.
    No ratchet handle, just your oily fingers. That is just about right for torque. Best to use blue Loctite on the bolts.

    .
    sigpic
    mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
    hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
    #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
    #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
    Family Portrait
    Siblings and Spouses
    Mom's first ride
    Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
    (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

    Comment

      #3
      Hi,

      The Real Gasket on my bike has been there for over 30,000 miles. Like Mr. Steve says, if your tach gear is in the head they are a good thing. If you tach gear is in the valve cover then they are extra fiddly and not recommended because of the problems you state.

      The literature that came with mine stated 15 inch pounds of torque. That's 1.25 ft. lbs. I use the "bwringer method" when tightening. Just go 1/2 to 3/4 turn past finger tight, looking for the "squish factor". The gasket will just start to bulge a little at the proper torque. Make sure the surfaces and gasket are very, very clean. I also use a little thread sealer (NOT thread locker) on the valve cover bolts to hold them a little more securely. Be sure to check the bolts again after a hundred miles or so, just in case any of them loosen up.

      I just had to order a new one because I over-torqued it and put a little split in it. It's just barely weeping but I'm going to replace it on my next valve check so it doesn't get any worse. Even with replacing it after 8 valve checks, it's still cheaper than replacing a paper gasket every time. Hopefully this one will last a lot longer.

      Thank you for your indulgence,

      BassCliff

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
        ... Even with replacing it after 8 valve checks, it's still cheaper than replacing a paper gasket every time.
        Actually, it's about 3 to 1.

        Parts-n-More has valve cover gaskets for my 850s, $14 for the early ones, $17 for the later ones.

        I believe that Z1 has them for just under $10.

        I paid $25 for my last Real Gasket, plus another $5 for shipping.

        .
        sigpic
        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
        Family Portrait
        Siblings and Spouses
        Mom's first ride
        Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
        (Click on my username in the upper-left corner for e-mail info.)

        Comment

          #5
          Thanks Steve and Basscliff,...just about what I thought. Yes my drive is in the valve cover..'81 GS1100EX. I will have to try to seal that area with OEM cover gasket. I did replace the 'O' rings on the two center head bolts hopefully that will slow down the oil some. Sure wish Suzuki had gone with the rubber jacketed cover gasket they used on the 1150's..those just DON'T leak. Many thanks for your input gentlemen.

          Terry
          Last edited by headsbikesmopars; 02-10-2011, 10:19 PM.
          1980 Suzuki GS550E, 1981 Suzuki GS 1100EX all stock, 1983 Suzuki GS 1100EX modified, 1985 GS1150E, 1998 Honda Valkyrie Tourer, 1971 Kawasaki Mach lll 500 H1, 1973 Kawasaki Mach lV 750 H2.

          Comment

            #6
            Originally posted by Steve View Post
            Actually, it's about 3 to 1.

            Parts-n-More has valve cover gaskets for my 850s, $14 for the early ones, $17 for the later ones.

            I believe that Z1 has them for just under $10.

            I paid $25 for my last Real Gasket, plus another $5 for shipping.

            .
            I was told there would be no math today.

            And let's not forget that a Real Gasket has no clean-up. How much time has everyone spent cleaning off the old paper gasket? For an easier removal, coat the paper gasket with grease before installation.

            Thank you for your indulgence,

            BassCliff

            Comment

              #7
              Originally posted by BassCliff View Post
              I was told there would be no math today.

              And let's not forget that a Real Gasket has no clean-up. How much time has everyone spent cleaning off the old paper gasket? For an easier removal, coat the paper gasket with grease before installation.

              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff
              This sounds nice, especially after all the time I just had to spend scraping whatever elephant snot the PO used on my valve cover gasket to "seal" it. In quotations because said goop split and leaked everywhere...

              Comment

                #8
                Originally posted by afholderman View Post
                This sounds nice, especially after all the time I just had to spend scraping whatever elephant snot the PO used on my valve cover gasket to "seal" it. In quotations because said goop split and leaked everywhere...
                Hi,

                Yes, it sure is nice not having to scrape off old gasket when doing a valve check. Cleaning off the old gasket is more time consuming than any other task involved with the valve adjustments.

                For the sake of clarity, if you use a Real Gasket, put it on CLEAN, no sealant, nothing. Make sure the cam cover surfaces are very clean too.


                Thank you for your indulgence,

                BassCliff

                Comment

                  #9
                  I wish I had read this before I broke my valve cover. Man, I misread the dang instructions and my bonehead subbed ft.lbs. for in.lbs. I have a new valve cover on the way but was wondering on yalls opinions about the gasket. You think it is still good, wasn't torqued down for long. no slices in it, slight depression from the cover.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    You should be fine chuck.

                    Comment

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