Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

HELP! 1980 GS850G Starts, but stumbles-Pops-won't rev??

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    HELP! 1980 GS850G Starts, but stumbles-Pops-won't rev??

    Hi Gang,

    Well... in the beginning, I purchased this 1980 GS850, knowing it had a problem running. $400.00, it was a good deal.

    The bike started, and idled with the choke on, but the idle was rough, and it would spit and pop back through the carbs a little.

    I rebuilt the carbs, rebuilt the Petcock, cleaned out the fuel tank, etc. Spark plugs look good, wires are attached to the correct plug, and everything generally looks fine.

    Put it all back together, and it runs EXACTLY the same way. When you try to give it gas, it stumbles and bogs and spits back through the carbs. Almost acts like the cam timing is off or like a distributor that isn't timed right. But that's my "if this were a car" diagnosis, so I could use some guidance.

    One thing I did notice is that the clamps that hold the carbs into the rubber intake manifolds clamp down ALL the way, and are still loose, so I suppose it could be sucking air past these. Is this a common/known issue?

    Otherwise, HELP? Can you please give me an idea of the things to check from this point? I'd really like to NOT have to just guess.

    I can take a video of the bike running so you can see/here what is happening, if you think that would help.

    Would love to get this bike running.

    Thanks!

    #2
    Video it up.

    Sounds like it could be an airleak or maybe its running too rich.

    Pull a plug after it does this and look at the color. Spray some WD40 around the carbs and intake boots with the bike running and see if the rpms change.

    Comment


      #3
      When you say you "rebuilt" the carbs, what did you do?

      What shape are the intake boots in?

      Did you replace all the O rings?

      Got the airbox on and sealed?

      Read the BassCliff site?
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Big T View Post
        When you say you "rebuilt" the carbs, what did you do?

        What shape are the intake boots in?

        Did you replace all the O rings?

        Got the airbox on and sealed?

        Read the BassCliff site?

        Carbs taken apart, cleaned well, all new rubber and gaskets. Needle and seats and floats looked/worked fine, so reused those. All passages were cleaned. Everything was carefully reassembled.

        Airbox isn't currently installed, I'm using K&N Pod filters.

        I'm reading through the BassCliff site now...

        The story from the previous owner was that he took the bike for a ride one day and it ran fine. He parked it and didn't ride it again for about 3-months. When he tried to start it then, it acted like I described. It's still actiing that way after the work I described.

        Any more leads would be greatly appreciated.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Ranger View Post
          Video it up.

          Sounds like it could be an airleak or maybe its running too rich.

          Pull a plug after it does this and look at the color. Spray some WD40 around the carbs and intake boots with the bike running and see if the rpms change.

          The plugs appear normal, with a little bit of richness around the outide (I've been running it on the choke), but light brown tips. They look normal.

          I put brand new intake clamps on the boots, but even fully tightened down, they spin freely, so I suspect you may be right about the intakes. They appear to be soft and flexible still, but the clamps don't tighten on them at all. Sounds like this is a common issue???

          Comment


            #6
            Try the things I mentioned and get the video up. Story he told you makes no sense, there has to be something else.

            Not sure about the clamps spinning around being a common issue, it shouldnt be an issue at all since they are clamps afterall but I have all new ones $3 each.

            You'll know for sure with the WD40 test if its sucking air in before the carbs.

            Comment


              #7
              Pod filters will almost certainly require rejetting the carburetors. I'd try to find an airbox and get rid of the pods. When you rebuild the carbs, did you make a note of the jet sizes that are currently installed? More than likely, jets are stock and you are lean because of the pods.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by almarconi View Post
                Pod filters will almost certainly require rejetting the carburetors. I'd try to find an airbox and get rid of the pods. When you rebuild the carbs, did you make a note of the jet sizes that are currently installed? More than likely, jets are stock and you are lean because of the pods.
                Main jets were upsized by the previous owner when he installed the Kerker pipe. They are 117.5s (stock are 115, if I recall correctly)

                I'll look for leaks and see what I find.

                As for the clamps on the intakes... they are brand new, factory parts, and when bottomed out, they still spin freely, which makes me suspect that the intakes have shrunk down or dried out sufficiently to not allow a good seal.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Darin Jordan View Post
                  Main jets were upsized by the previous owner when he installed the Kerker pipe. They are 117.5s (stock are 115, if I recall correctly)

                  I'll look for leaks and see what I find.

                  As for the clamps on the intakes... they are brand new, factory parts, and when bottomed out, they still spin freely, which makes me suspect that the intakes have shrunk down or dried out sufficiently to not allow a good seal.
                  You're not lean, so I wouldn't worry about jet sizes. Its not a fuel problem so it seems but it cant be eliminated for sure until you test for air leaks. I have a hard time believing that the intake boots shrunk although possible because the carbs would be pressing against the boots which would be pressing against the clamps, its more than likely they could be the wrong sized clamps.
                  Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2011, 01:36 AM.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I had to reorder clamps since the ones I ordered were the wrong size. I had my bike running ok until I noticed the air box clamp wasn't tightened down. I had to readjust everything to get it running ok. I had similar issue where it would only run with choke and hitting the gas killed it. Check for leaks.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      OK, so I just ordered new O-Rings for the intakes and some stainless socket head bolts (from http://www.cycleorings.com/). Ordered the complete o-ring kit for the carbs as well, just in case I need to do that to (I never did take all the carbs off the rack and replace the O-rings in the t-fittings)

                      I'll see what I can do to get some clamps that will tighten down all the way to make sure there aren't any leaks there.

                      I'll be very happy if this is simply an airleak problem. I'll check it out tomorrow....

                      Anyone have any suggestions on where I can get some quality clamps, since the factory replacements don't seem to fit??

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Darin Jordan View Post
                        OK, so I just ordered new O-Rings for the intakes and some stainless socket head bolts (from http://www.cycleorings.com/). Ordered the complete o-ring kit for the carbs as well, just in case I need to do that to (I never did take all the carbs off the rack and replace the O-rings in the t-fittings)

                        I'll see what I can do to get some clamps that will tighten down all the way to make sure there aren't any leaks there.

                        I'll be very happy if this is simply an airleak problem. I'll check it out tomorrow....

                        Anyone have any suggestions on where I can get some quality clamps, since the factory replacements don't seem to fit??

                        Edit: Dont look thru that link if you saw it. I looked and they dont list your bike. Find the part # then look it up.
                        Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2011, 02:15 AM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          You're not lean, so I wouldn't worry about jet sizes.
                          Pods and a kerker pipe, only 1 size up on the main jet and he's not lean...very interesting observation

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by almarconi View Post
                            Pods and a kerker pipe, only 1 size up on the main jet and he's not lean...very interesting observation
                            He'd be showing it off idle even with a possible air leak. His plug color is fine but thats with an assumed airleak which leans the mixture out even more. I'd be more interested in how his needle is than the size of the jet so for the time being it seems he's not lean, which is why I made that observation as to not worry about the jets because it is unlikely the cause of the problem especially since it supposedly ran fine before.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Hi,

                              With pipe and pods you'll need to go up at least three sizes on the main jets, probably one size on the pilot jets, shim the needles, and adjust as necessary. Plug chops will tell you definitively. Clean the carbs properly. You'll find the procedure here on the GSR homepage and there's a copy on my website. Read your "mega-welcome" and go through the maintenance lists. Most of that stuff really is mandatory for a good running bike. Keep us informed.

                              The PO says it ran fine.


                              Thank you for your indulgence,

                              BassCliff
                              Last edited by Guest; 02-26-2011, 05:23 AM.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X