Help please...

[bogie]

Hi, my name is Nick, and I am a dumbass...
Apparently, for however long I do not know, my bike was set on "prime" on the petcock. It wasn't untill yesterday when changing the oil, and noticing the distinct gasoline smell, that I looked for where the petcock was on my bike. I have no idea how long it was set on prime, could of been like that since I bought it in April last year, or some jackass from the neighborhood might of done it just a few weeks ago...
The bike is a 1982 GS850GL, like I said bought it in April of 2010, and had rode it for most of the season up till November/early December. Bought some oil filters online so I could change the oil for winter, but accidentally ordered the wrong kind (for a bmw bike no less...) I had also bought a clutch cover gasket, because I had intended on taking the clutch cover off and cleaning out the oil view window, because I could never see the level in it, and believed it was dirty, then thought maybe it was just too overfull, but still just now couldn't see the oil level after putting in just 2 quarts yesterday, so probably will need to clean it after all. I tried starting the bike before the oil change, would turn over, but wouldn't start. I havn't tried since. Also took out the 2 outside spark plugs, and saw they were black and sooty, so carbon fouled. In January noticed that I was leaking some oil it seemed, probably because gas was getting in and making it over full? Seemed to originate from the carbs area, though not certain where exactly, was on the left side if that matters. Wasn't able to do anything about it being the area in Kansas that I live was covered with over a foot of snow, and no indoor area to work on it.

So yeah, I think that's a pretty good summation of where I am at now. I'm figuring I will have to take out the carbs and give them a bath in carb cleaner, and replace the spark plugs. What else should I do to make things right? Anything else I should look into while I'm tearing stuff apart? Been looking some at BassCliff's website, but is kind of overwhelming on what all to do. I don't want my bike out of commission for too long, but then again I want to make sure its done all right, and catch any other problems before the become major issues.
Thanks.

[tkent02]

Fresh oil to the right level should be good enough, no damage should have happened if you didn't run it with all that fuel in there. All of the maintenance on Cliff's site is really needed if you don't know when it was done last. Cleaning the oil window is a good idea too.
What part of Kansas are you in?

[bogie]

Newton, 30 miles north of Wichita.

[Graham]

New float needle and seats. If they work right than your engine won’t fill with gas even in prime.

[Nessism]

Oil won't show in the sightglass until at least 3 quarts so don't go pulling that cover just yet.

[tkent02]

New float needle and seats. If they work right than your engine won’t fill with gas even in prime.

Not really true, they may or may not hold the fuel back. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't but it's not their job. Their job is to control the fuel level while there is fuel flowing, not stop it. That's the petcock's job. Leaving it on prime for months is pushing your luck even with new needle and seats.

[bonanzadave]

New float needle and seats. If they work right than your engine won’t fill with gas even in prime.

Dont bank on that. A full tank of gas is enough to un seat the tightest needles. Safest to keep it off PRI.

[mike_of_bbg]

You should install some new OEM clutch springs while you're in there cleaning the window. Cheap and easy and you'll already be in there.

Whether or not your needle valves should be able to hold back the pressure of fuel for months is up for debate. And it might be bad o-rings around the seats instead of bad needle valves. New OEM needle valves and seats would run about $120. Never putting it on prime (except for about 20 seconds if it's been at least a few weeks since it was run) is a better idea.

There are varying degrees of winterization that can take place. Had you done any, you should have noticed the petcock setting. I'm not trying to beat you up but it's a good reminder that these things need maintenance. Furthermore, was that fuel stabilized? If you can't burn it up in a couple or three weeks, fuel should be stabilized (preferably with Sea-Foam for modern alcohol-added fuels). You may be in for a thorough carb cleaning with fresh o-rings (that might not be a bad idea anyway if your needle valves were leaking).

At a minimum I suggest adding fuel stabilizer and draining the carb bowls before putting the bike up for the winter. I'll make a trough with aluminum foil, empty the bowls into it, and add the drained fuel to the stabilized mix in the tank.

tkent is right - if you didn't run it then no lasting harm should be done.

[BassCliff]

Greetings and Salutations!!

Hi Mr. bogie,

Let me share some GS lovin'.

I just stopped by to welcome you to the forum in my own, special way.

If there's anything you'd like to know about the Suzuki GS model bikes, and most others actually, you've come to the right place. There's a lot of knowledge and experience here in the community. Come on in and let me say "HOoooowwwDY!"....

Here is your very own magical, mystical, mythical, mind-expanding "mega-welcome". Please take notice of the "Top 10 Common Issues", "Top 15 Tips For GS Happiness", the Carb Rebuild Series, and the Stator Papers. Now let me roll out the welcome mat for you...



Please click here for your mega-welcome, chock full of tips, suggestions, links to vendors, and other information. Then feel free to visit my little BikeCliff website where I've been collecting the wisdom of this generous community. Don't forget, we like pictures! Not you, your bike!

Thanks for joining us. Keep us informed.

Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[winfield]

Bogie: don't feel so bad. I set my petcock on PRI too and came out next day to a strong smell of gas. My old bike (1975 Z1 900 Kaw) had three positions on the petcock--"Off," "On," and "Res." I don't see so well. I could make out "Res" and "On," but couldn't quite make out the other setting on my new-to-me GS, so I figured it mus be "Off."

Wrong. Any way, I cleaned the gas off the top of the trainy, changed the oil to be sure it was not now loaded with gas, set the petcock on "On" and started it and had no problems. All advice I got from people on GSResources.

A common mistake.

[Graham]

Not really true, they may or may not hold the fuel back. Sometimes they do, sometimes they don't but it's not their job. Their job is to control the fuel level while there is fuel flowing, not stop it. That's the petcock's job. Leaving it on prime for months is pushing your luck even with new needle and seats.

Whatever. The job of the needle valve is to strop fuel flow when the float level is reached. If a needle valve does it’s job (running or not) then the carb doesn't over flow. If the needle valves are dirty or bad then they will over flow and fill the engine with gas. So Bogie should check his needle valves, duh. I didn’t say needle valves are replacements petcocks.

Dont bank on that. A full tank of gas is enough to un seat the tightest needles. Safest to keep it off PRI.

It is best to keep off the PRI and not rely on your needle valves. But if they work right than your engine won’t fill with gas even in prime.

[tkent02]

The job of the needle valve is to strop fuel flow when the float level is reached.

No, it's not. It controls the flow of fuel to the amount the engine is using, by holding a constant level in the bowl while fuel is flowing. It slows the flow to the rate that it is being used . If it can sometimes stop the flow completely that's OK, some do, some don't, but it is not the main purpose, and it has no bearing on how well the carburetor meters fuel as the fuel flow into the engine never goes to zero while the engine is running.

[Graham]

No, it's not. It controls the flow of fuel to the amount the engine is using, by holding a constant level in the bowl while fuel is flowing. It slows the flow to the rate that it is being used . If it can sometimes stop the flow completely that's OK, some do, some don't, but it is not the main purpose, and it has no bearing on how well the carburetor meters fuel as the fuel flow into the engine never goes to zero while the engine is running.

Maybe I have a different standard for carb work? The carbs I do don’t leak if you leave the petcock on (PRI) with the bike on the side stand for weeks at a time. Got three bikes that have been waiting 3 weeks in my shop to be picked up and not a drop from the overflows. Most of the little Chinese ATVs don’t have a fuel shut off and the needle valve is it. The point is not fuel metering but fuel leaking.
I just can’t trust my customers to turn the petcock the right way but they have to trust my carb work.

[tkent02]

If I was taking customers for every part I'd sell them new needles they don't need too.
Sell them rings when the compression varies. Sell them brakes when they squeak a bit.
Hell, I'd sell them new tires when the old ones aren't shiny enough.
I didn't realize those Chinese pieces of junk didn't have petcocks.
Hopefully the needles are a little more robust design?
What else did they leave out?

[haztoys]

Maybe I have a different standard for carb work? The carbs I do don’t leak if you leave the petcock on (PRI) with the bike on the side stand for weeks at a time. Got three bikes that have been waiting 3 weeks in my shop to be picked up and not a drop from the overflows. Most of the little Chinese ATVs don’t have a fuel shut off and the needle valve is it. The point is not fuel metering but fuel leaking.
I just can’t trust my customers to turn the petcock the right way but they have to trust my carb work.

May not of been on the same page with you Graham a few months back

But I'm with you on your statement here ...My carb work does not leak on prime ever ......