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how to remove/install wheel bearing?
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how to remove/install wheel bearing?
I'm looking to replace the front wheel bearing on my '79 gs750 before my ride out to school in upstate NY from Boston this weekend. When I got the front tire replaced I discovered they were worn out and had a sandy feel to them. I was hoping I could get some tips on how to remove and install new bearings? The manual doesn't cover how to do it. Do I need to use Loctite? SHould I use heat on the bearing surface since it's a press fit?? Any help is greatly appreciated!Tags: None
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BassCliff
Hi,
I found this on some guy's website. Maybe it will help.
Wheel Bearing Removal/Replacement
(by Mr. Suzuki_Don)
EDIT: You could use a punch and a hammer to drive them out, being very careful. Work on one side of the wheel, through the near bearing to drive out the opposite bearing. To reinstall, heat the hub but freeze the bearing itself. Then they'll sometimes go in very easily.
Thank you for your indulgence,
BassCliffLast edited by Guest; 03-21-2011, 04:57 PM.
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midnightcafe
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midnightcafe
alright, so the anchor bolt I bought didn't expand well enough into the bearing and just popped out every time. Now it's useless, and the next size up bolt won't even go through the bearing ID, so this approach is no good.
All I need is to remove one bearing and the rest will flow- any tips on how to remove a bearing without using an anchor bolt? The inside spacer makes it impossible to hammer it out as well since it's flush with the bearing ID... I'm looking for a fast response as my bike is precariously lifted with a car jack and I don't want to hear a crash coming from the garage as I write this
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makenzie71
The spacer is flush but it has some wiggle room. Use a long and push the spacer aside and drive the bearing out by hitting one side, then the other. Once you get the one side off, use as large a sock as you can find and drive the opposite out.
I do not heat or freeze the bearings myself as it's not that difficult a thing to pull off. I can video the process and post it if you would like.
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Long wooden dowel or screwdriver... Set the rim up on 2 2x4s and smack them out.. To replace set the rim so the hub is on a solid surface and gently start then evenly into the recesses. once they are started use a socket the same diameter as the outside race and seat them into the rims.MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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mike_of_bbg
Just keep at it, you'll catch a lip eventually. If you stick a screwdriver in there you can give the handle some hammer taps to the side to try to knock the spacer into a more diagonal position. You probably need to put a pretty good pull on it to catch the lip. Once it starts and the spacer starts to move it will go much more quickly.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35712
- Torrance, CA
You should be able to move the inner spacer to the side enough to catch the lip on the ID of the bearing. Using a long punch or screwdriver strike the bearing race on one side, move 180 degrees to the other side of the bearing and hit again. Work back and forth, and don't whack too hard on any one side or the bearing will cock and skew in the wheel bore. Of course this is not the proper way to remove the bearings but it will do in a pinch.
To drive in a new bearing a large diameter socket works well. The socket much push on the outer race of the new bearing, not on the inside or the bearing will be destroyed.
Hope this helps and good luck.Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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spyug
Getting the first bearing out is the key. As they are useless no need to preserve them so you can bust out the raceand bearings on one side with a hammer and chisel or screwdriver. Once its open the spacer will come out and you'll have access to the other bearing which you can then tap out with a drift or large piece of dowel.
To put in the new ones you don't need to heat up the hub but if you put the bearings in the freezer for a few hours they will slip right in. A little bit of lube also helps and a rubber mallet will drive them in.
Its not a hard job and shouldn't take long.
Good luck with it.
cheers,
Spyug
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Go caveman on it!!!MY BIKES..1977 GS 750 B, 1978 GS 1000 C (X2)
1978 GS 1000 E, 1979 GS 1000 S, 1973 Yamaha TX 750, 1977 Kawasaki KZ 650B1, 1975 Honda GL1000 Goldwing, 1983 CB 650SC Nighthawk, 1972 Honda CB 350K4, 74 Honda CB550
NEVER SNEAK UP ON A SLEEPING DOG..NOT EVEN YOUR OWN.
I would rather trust my bike to a "QUACK" that KNOWS how to fix it rather than a book worm that THINKS HE KNOWS how to fix it.
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midnightcafe
Originally posted by chuck hahn View PostGo caveman on it!!!
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midnightcafe
success! I didn't know what you guys meant by the middle spacer having wiggle room, after failing at the anchor bolt it could move slightly, but after forcing a drill bit down one side (hey, it's all I have!), I could literally move the spacer halfway to any edge. Then I could line up my metal rod and go Thor on it. Now to clean up the mess
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Suzuki_Don
Originally posted by midnightcafe View Postsuccess! I didn't know what you guys meant by the middle spacer having wiggle room, after failing at the anchor bolt it could move slightly, but after forcing a drill bit down one side (hey, it's all I have!), I could literally move the spacer halfway to any edge. Then I could line up my metal rod and go Thor on it. Now to clean up the mess
And maybe less beer!!!!!!!!!!Last edited by Guest; 03-22-2011, 02:36 AM.
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midnightcafe
Thanks Don, I'll keep that in mind
It seems Murphy's law is playing hardball with me at the moment. Last night I heated up the bearing surface and the bearing dropped about halfway in-crooked! I've tried to dial it in with the threaded rod technique but it's still seated crookedly, and that's after deforming all the thick washers involved. ARGH. I also left a slight bur on the second bearing surface (not the race surface, what the bearing is pressed against) when I was knocking it out, which isn't too bad but it would still press against the seal.
So instead of going to the local Wallymart and picking up a Dremel (using the return policy heheh), I just called up a friend who owns a Jaguar shop and he has a bearing press. O, joy!! I'll make sure to bring my camera, old school shops like his are hard to come by.
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Don-lo
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