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    Rear brake pads wore out before fronts

    Total newbie stupid question:

    About a year ago the pads where changed while I had a shop change tires. Recently noticed the rear were darn near to the metal so I just replaced them last night. The fronts are still at about 50% life. Is this normal? I don't think I use too much rear brake - I am never skidding the rear tire. Maybe I am applying light pressure on the rear while riding as I do more tight canyon roads more than open roads.

    Any ideas?
    Thanks!

    #2
    How's your fuel economy?

    Comment


      #3
      The brakes could be dragging due to accumulated sludge in the hydraulic system. A full system tear down, clean out, and replacement of the old rubber lines is in order unless this work has been done before.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        Common enough with newer riders or anxious riders covering the brake. You are actually dragging the brake as your foot is pressing ever so slightly on the pedal. A lot like riding the clutch pedal in a car or truck with standard trannie.

        You may have the brake pedal set too high such that you can't help but rest your foot on it as you ride. It should be parallel to but slightly under the level of the peg.

        If you are not doing that ( i.e. riding it), then you could have a stuck piston but that usually just wears the pad on one side.

        If it hasn't been done in a while it might be a good idea to pull, clean and rebuilt the caliper. As the fluid is hydroscopic, water does get in to the system and this can cause rust to build up in the piston area. The pistons are "hard" chromed but cracks and pits can develope and the rust will form on the under strata. If the rust builds up enough it can jam the piston. If you pull the pistons and find them cracked or pitted you will need to replace them as they can become a safety hazard.

        I find brakes are often the least well looked after system on the bike. Fluid should be changed at a minimum of every second season and old rubber hoses should be replaced after 5 seasons or so ( but never are). Better yet, chuck them away and go with stainless steel/kevlar. As "gunge" builds up in master cylinders too, these need a cleaning and rebuilding after a few seasons as well.

        Don't fool with brakes. Look after them.....you never know when you will really need them.

        Cheers,
        Spyug

        Comment


          #5
          One thing I didnt see mentioned, you only have one rotor in the rear.....two up front.
          Even if everything is in perfect working order and you use the brakes properly but say maybe use the rear a little more often then the front they will wear faster. One rotor - rear vs. two rotors - front.....try just using the front brakes for every day commuting stop and go etc. only use the rear when actually necessary......I would bet a cup of coffee they will last allot longer.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by spyug View Post
            Common enough with newer riders or anxious riders covering the brake. You are actually dragging the brake as your foot is pressing ever so slightly on the pedal. A lot like riding the clutch pedal in a car or truck with standard trannie.

            You may have the brake pedal set too high such that you can't help but rest your foot on it as you ride. It should be parallel to but slightly under the level of the peg.

            If you are not doing that ( i.e. riding it), then you could have a stuck piston but that usually just wears the pad on one side.

            If it hasn't been done in a while it might be a good idea to pull, clean and rebuilt the caliper. As the fluid is hydroscopic, water does get in to the system and this can cause rust to build up in the piston area. The pistons are "hard" chromed but cracks and pits can develope and the rust will form on the under strata. If the rust builds up enough it can jam the piston. If you pull the pistons and find them cracked or pitted you will need to replace them as they can become a safety hazard.

            I find brakes are often the least well looked after system on the bike. Fluid should be changed at a minimum of every second season and old rubber hoses should be replaced after 5 seasons or so ( but never are). Better yet, chuck them away and go with stainless steel/kevlar. As "gunge" builds up in master cylinders too, these need a cleaning and rebuilding after a few seasons as well.

            Don't fool with brakes. Look after them.....you never know when you will really need them.

            Cheers,
            Spyug
            Make sure you set the pedal free play too. It may be applying pressure even when at rest.

            Comment


              #7
              Hi,

              Maybe your rear rotor is not smooth and wears the pads faster. I don't know if you can turn these rotors or not. But I find that my rear pads wears a little faster than the fronts too. When I'm really braking, not just scrubbing off a little speed or doing parking lot maneuvers, I tend to use all my brakes at the same time. It kind of makes sense that the rear would wear more quickly since there's only one of them.


              Thank you for your indulgence,

              BassCliff
              Last edited by Guest; 04-28-2011, 04:26 PM.

              Comment


                #8
                I eat my rears 3-1 to the front.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Man that sounds kinda like allot. I ride quads allot same thing two up front one in the rear if you use your rear brakes while aggresive trail riding or whatever it will chew em up fast.
                  I dont typically use my back brakes unless I really need to.....almost like a emergency brake. They still wear faster dont really think there is a way around it but three to one seems a tad much.

                  Just my $.02

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by gsryder View Post
                    Man that sounds kinda like allot. I ride quads allot same thing two up front one in the rear if you use your rear brakes while aggresive trail riding or whatever it will chew em up fast.
                    I dont typically use my back brakes unless I really need to.....almost like a emergency brake. They still wear faster dont really think there is a way around it but three to one seems a tad much.

                    Just my $.02
                    My old L handled like crap in the twisties but was fast as hell so I would shave speed going into corners with the rear and go like hell on the straight aways.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I use 80% front and bleed alittle air in the rear so you have to really apply the to get lock up ,wear fronts 2-3 to 1 over the rears
                      1984 GS1100GK newest addition to the heard
                      80 GS 1000gt- most favorite ride love this bike
                      1978 GS1000E- Known as "RoadKill" , Finished :D
                      83 gs750ed- first new purchase
                      85 EX500- vintage track weapon
                      1958Ducati 98 Tourismo
                      “Remember When in doubt use full throttle, It may not improve the situation ,but it will end the suspense ,
                      If it isn't going to make it faster or safer it isn't worth doing

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'm like Chef, I change out the rear pads three times as often as the fronts. Part of if is because there is only one disk back there, plus the rear caliper has two pistons and squeezes from both sides, the front calipers only have one piston each.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                          My old L handled like crap in the twisties but was fast as hell so I would shave speed going into corners with the rear and go like hell on the straight aways.
                          LOL!!! Well there you go........maniac

                          Comment


                            #14
                            check the pivot that goes through the frame, it should move freely and be greased once in a while.
                            1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
                            1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by hjfisk View Post
                              I use 80% front and bleed alittle air in the rear so you have to really apply the to get lock up ,wear fronts 2-3 to 1 over the rears

                              I always found my rears too sensitive ... I'll have to try bleeding a little air in there ...


                              thanks for the idea.

                              Comment

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