New to forum please help me :)

[TPL]

His motor doesnt have round covers, but yes, it does have those seals as well. Though, USUALLY when those leak, its just weeping, not pouring.

Without seeing it, Im going to bet its the valve cover gasket up front near the cam chain tunnel. They often crack there, and when they do, the cam chain slings oil quite efficiently, making quite a mess. The oil gets blown around by the air, and before you know it, EVERYTHING is covered in oil, including your boots.


BTW, its important that you clean ALL of the old gasket off both mating surfaces when replacing them. If you dont, it will leak. You also need to take care not to gouge or score the mating surfaces either, as it will leak.

A green Roloc wheel on a drill will work nicely for cleaning them up. Just dont leave it in one place too long...

Oops, my bad on that but yea it does have the rubber seals at the cam ends. I recently pulled the stator cover on my 850 and what is left of the original gasket tore apart and is adhered pretty good to the metal. I use GooGone on the remaining adhered gasket and let it soak in to the gasket for several hours, it works very well and will be able to just peal the remaining material off. They make it in a thick form and a thin watery form, I use the thinner GooGone.

[smokydog]

you guys are great !

Thank you all for listening to me whine, lol. I am encouraged by all the posts and the content of them. I am really happy you dont have to pull the motor to change the gaskets, All three shops I went to said you did have to.

The foot powder idea is a great Idea Basscliff ! I will try that today, I was disheartened when you all told me how many different places these bikes leak but if I can tear the top off myself, I can change all of them and the seals and should be good to go.

The only problem I forsee is getting the cam timed when I put it back together but the info is here or I can get it with you all's excellent help.

You all should be proud, helping people like me you dont even know, especially when I was whining, lol. I am going to pull my ad and not sell the bike, the thing looks like new except for the seatcover, a couple of scratches on the tank, and a missing right side cover.

Thanks again all, have a great day, and I will definetely be talking to you all again. By the way if anyone needs help with a Thumper, aka 4 stroke dual sport or dirt bike I know them inside out.

Take care, Jerry

[TPL]

Thank you all for listening to me whine, lol. I am encouraged by all the posts and the content of them. I am really happy you dont have to pull the motor to change the gaskets, All three shops I went to said you did have to.

The foot powder idea is a great Idea Basscliff ! I will try that today, I was disheartened when you all told me how many different places these bikes leak but if I can tear the top off myself, I can change all of them and the seals and should be good to go.

The only problem I forsee is getting the cam timed when I put it back together but the info is here or I can get it with you all's excellent help.

You all should be proud, helping people like me you dont even know, especially when I was whining, lol. I am going to pull my ad and not sell the bike, the thing looks like new except for the seatcover, a couple of scratches on the tank, and a missing right side cover.

Thanks again all, have a great day, and I will definetely be talking to you all again. By the way if anyone needs help with a Thumper, aka 4 stroke dual sport or dirt bike I know them inside out.

Take care, Jerry

Jerry, that is awesome!

That bike you have is worth the effort and I find that doing the work myself on my GS brings even more appreciation for my ride. I'm sure that during your work of replacing the gaskets many here will be more than willing to help.

[koolaid_kid]

Timing the cams is very easy on a stock engine. There are marks on each cam sprocket that need to be aligned and you are done.
Glad to hear you decided to keep it; best of luck.

[smokydog]

Not good lol

Went to change the oil to 20w50 today, boy did I find out why I got this bike cheap lol. Here is what I found :

Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in

I am guessing the guy really liked his air rachet and liked the way it stipped everything out , lol might as well laugh as cry

I cannot sell this bike to anyone when just changing the oil I find this much wrong So I have decided to keep it and just drive it back and forth to work.

I have two questions please you guys have been so helpful and I really do appreciate every bit of it.

Questions:

1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get, Jerry

[MelodicMetalGod]

Holy....!!! That's a heck of list that the PO left you to deal with. And pretty crappy ethics as well, since somebody obviously went to a fair amount of trouble to obscure the bikes issues (heavy gear oil?, silicone to secure the drain plug!, BAH!).

Well, the only thing to do is fix it up. I'm not much of a mechanic, but it sounds like you are and the guru's here can help ya do pretty much anything, so it all comes down to how much time and effort you're OK with on the wrenching side. You got some issues, but I'll bet there are answers to all of them.

Welcome and best of luck!

PS: My bike was unrideable when I first got it and the folks here are 100% responsbile for guiding me through the process that got it back on the road.

[ddaniels]

Went to change the oil to 20w50 today, boy did I find out why I got this bike cheap lol. Here is what I found :

Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in

I am guessing the guy really liked his air rachet and liked the way it stipped everything out , lol might as well laugh as cry

I cannot sell this bike to anyone when just changing the oil I find this much wrong So I have decided to keep it and just drive it back and forth to work.

I have two questions please you guys have been so helpful and I really do appreciate every bit of it.

Questions:

1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.

Thanks in advance for any help I can get, Jerry

New to the party here Jerry, but all those stripped out areas should be able to be either fixed or replaced. Sounds like the seller was not only an idiot, but also very dishonest. Gear oil in the engine!? Yikes! I would put fresh oil in, run if for a couple days, then change it again. Keep doing that until no more gear oil comes out...if you can even tell.

As others have said, these old bikes are practically bullet proof. The proof is in how yours is still running ok after the abuse it has received. Get yourself a Clymer's manual and take care of those leaks. It's not difficult. I took my first 1000G top end down when I was in my early 30's and not much experience. It all came out ok. Just remember to put the locating dowels back in under the cylinder base when reassembling. Don't ask me why I say that. And, also don't forget to replace the oval orings on the corners of the cylinder base along with the paper gasket. I forgot those and it still leaked. Had to tear down again. Trickiest part for me was getting the cylinders back over the piston rings. I didn't have a ring compressor and did it with a hose clamp. Tricky, but worked.

Yes, the guys at the Suzuki shop are a bunch of turds. Don't listen to them. They just do not want to mess with it, and are trying to sway you into buying something new from them. They are all trained on working on newer bikes and obviously don't have the common sense to stop and think logically and simply about things. And that's all you have to do to be able to work on these old bikes. It's all laid out in a logical manner in the Clymer's manual for you to follow. If you are a decent mechanic, you should have no problem. I was able to work on mine when I was no more than a young, self-taught shade-tree mechanic, which I pretty much still am. But I've gotten a lot of help from this forum. It just appears overwhelming at this point because you haven't gotten into it yet. Get into it and see for yourself how easy it is. Good luck.

[BassCliff]

Hi,

I'm happy that you've decided to keep and fix your bike. It sounds like you have quite a laundry list. But once you taken care of all these piddly little inconveniences and are caught up with all the regular maintenance, you will have a safe, reliable motorcycle.

Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium

You should still be able to get replacement engine mount bolts and nuts from any online Suzuki OEM vendor (they almost always have better prices that ordering through a local dealer). I've had to replace one of my engine mount bolts. The PO cross-threaded one and I didn't find out until I had to remove my case guards when replacing my stator. I had to hammer out the old bolt.

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards

Well that's a low down dirty trick. But gaskets and seals can be replaced. Sometimes the trickiest part is figuring out which ones. These engines are tough so I wouldn't worry too much.

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on

This is a common occurrence. You can buy generic studs and acorn nuts at your local hardware store (see the Engine Odds and Ends section of my little website) or just do what I did and order extra OEM studs and nuts from your favorite online Suzuki vendor.

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out

Drat. Just order up some replacements. I seem to recall that I paid about $10 for one of the front engine bolts on my bike. But it fits, it works, and I don't have to worry about it.

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in

Another common problem usually caused by the PO. A good fix is to just buy an oversized, self-tapping oil drain plug and ratchet it in. Make sure to remove any shavings that might get cut from the slightly larger diameter.

Questions:

1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?

You want to ride with nuts missing from the engine mount bolts? I can't recommend that. If you want to take a chance, keep an eye on them, and take it easy as you're riding around, it's up to you. I wouldn't ride it much and I'd take it very easy. Replace them ASAP.

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.

The number on the crankcase is the crankcase capacity. When you change the oil filter you should add another 600ml or so to that number. So you're talking right at 4 quarts for the complete oil change. I usually put in about 3.5 quarts, then run the engine for a couple of minutes, shut it off, then check the level in the sight glass after a minute or two and adjust (add more) as necessary. Use diesel engine oil (i.e. Rotella-T 15w40) for your bike. It's much better than automotive oil and much cheaper than motorcycle-specific oil.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Flyboy]

Hi Jerry, great to hear you keeping the bike , I promise you, you will fall in love with it, the GS series was arguably among the finest UJM's built.
Not so good that the PO left you a bunch of surprises, but not all doom and gloom, again, all od them should be a minor inconvienience for a man of your skills.
Lets have a quick look see;

The previous owner put heavy gear oil in the engine to make it quit leaking enough to sell it that cant of been good on the inards

The fact that it is still running and not making strange noises tells me you probably don't have any major damage inside.
The GS series motors were one of the most grossly over engineered, bullet proof lumps of aluminuim to be shoved between two wheels, you couldn't break them if you tried.
They, except for a very few (only the 750 four valve, I think) have roller bearing crank shafts and a low pressure oiling system, so they rely on splash, more than pressure to keep the internals lubed.
Flush and replace, you should be fine.

the studs on the oil filter housing are all stripped the guy loctited the nuts on

Quite common on these motors, remove, check the threads in the case, replace, they are just a couple of bucks at Suzuki, secure with ggod strong locktite, tap to the next biggest size if you have to and replace with next biggest studs and nuts, lots of folks here, been there, done that

Both upper motor mount bolts are completely stripped out So bad you cant get them out I am guessing because the threads are knurled with magnesium

Both lower motor mount bolts to the engine missing and assumed the threads are stripped out

It has been years since I have owned a GSX (as all 4 valves were designated here, on this side of the pond)
But as I recall, none of the engine mounting bolts actually fasten into the actuall engine cases, they are all through bolts with a nut on the other side, if it is like the 2 valve GS' the front lower short bolts, thread into a teardrop shaped thingymabob that fits between the external ribs of the engine case, underneath.
So your cases should be fine.

the oil drain plugged is stripped out and was siliconed in

Again, plenty folk here have had to deal with that problem, a helicoil or insert should sort it out.
Alternativly, you get an oversize, generic plug from your local auto spares shop that cuts its own threads, fr that very job.
I am sure those that have been through it will chip in here with good advice for you.

1. I will replace the two bottom motor mount bolts and loctite them in since I am sure threads are gone but a bolt loctited in is better than no bolt but I wonder if it is safe to ride with all 4 bolts stripped out, Its probably been going a long time that way and the pressure is side to side on the bolts so am I right in assuming it will probably be ok to ride?

I have ridden my 1000G with the engine held in by not much more than will power, , I think at one stage I had 2 bolts holding it in.
But, yeah, it ain't too clever, so I would not suggest it, but see my remark above.

2. The engine says it holds 3500ml of oil that is almost 4 quarts right? wow never expected it to hold that much.

Yep, correct, engine and tranny share the same oil.
Seems, worst case senario, it is going to cost you a few extra $ for nuts and studs and fresh oil and filter.................could have been a lot worse.
Keep us updated, we are here to help wherever we can.

Edit: I see Basscliff beat me to it.......he is scary.

[1_v8_merc]

The only way you'll learn to do anything, is when it needs to be fixed!

These bikes are the easiest thing on 2 wheels to wrench.

If those so called "mechanics" are afraid of a 30 year old bike.....they ARENT a real mechanic....period.
They're just ****ing scumbags, trying to take you for a ride up Green mountain!

[Flyboy]

I don't think it is the mechanics per se, more the shop they work for.
The billable hours just don't add up on an old bike.
A relativly small job could run into the price of the bike without too much trouble, does not make economic sense to spend $800 on a $1000 bike and a days work could easy cost you $800.
But an owner of a mega thousands of dollar Ducati will have no problem dropping $800 on a sevice on his spaghetti.

[smokydog]

you guys are awesome

To Basscliff and flyboy and all who have helped me so far, thank you so much.

I just turned 50 and am starting to doubt my skills, lol. I shouldnt though, I worked on the bike all day and got almost everything fixed !!

I helicoiled the motor mount bolts, put new studs in for the oil filter housing and changed the oil and guess what, I found the major leak !!!!!

OMG when I went to put the new oil filter in I noticed something wrong, you wont believe it, the idiot made a homemade o ring for the oil filter cover that was too small a diameter to seal !! And the splice was sad at best, lol. Luckily, my local shop had the oring in stock, they say it is common for it to go bad so they keep a couple around.

I still have a small leak and I am almost positive it is where the tach cable goes in. I am so happy, I rode 100 miles today and it only leaked slightly and NO HOT OIL ON MY LEG

I really credit you guys for me getting off my butt and tearing into this bike and I could not have had more fun today.

These things really must be bulletproof if you can run 80w gear oil in one for god knows how long with no apparent damage. The engine sounds fine and I wonder why it cranks much faster when I start it cold, lol..

I left the crash bars off, they interfere with my size 17 EEEE boots, lol and I must say it looks MUCH better with them off.

Since I decided to keep the bike I have a question, I will post it under the section looking for parts too but I need a right side cover. If anyone has one to sell or knows where to get one I would appreciate it. Also where is the best place to get a seatcover for a 1980 GS750E ? I see them on Ebay but there are a few and I would like to get a heads up on which one is the best for the money.

You guys rock, thanks so much, I LOVE THIS BIKE, lol. You barely touch the starter and it starts cold or hot

Thanks again, Jerry

Proud owner of a 1980 GS750E

[BassCliff]

Hi,

Yes, check the Parts for Sale and post in the Parts Wanted sections for the side cover. Those type of body parts are getting more scarce but sometimes you get lucky. I picked up a couple off Ebay for not much more that $30 each. Suzuki still sells a few new OEM side covers for a few models but you usually have to paint them, and they're expensive. However, I don't think the 750E is one of those models. But you can check the dealer parts fiches and see.

Are your seat pan and foam still good? I got a SaddleSkins (Travelcade) replacement cover for my seat and it worked out great. There are other options, like your local upholstery shop, or you can send your seat to a place like Sargent to get redone (but that's $$$). Have a look at the Seat Cover Replacement guide on my little website.


Thank you for your indulgence,

BassCliff

[Flyboy]

Good on you now that is the kind of post we like to see, another one saved.
May you have many, many happy miles riding her.
There is a whole thread here on seat covers, seems Pit Replica are a good crowd to get one from, they have an ebay shop as well, and as I remember, they are not too pricey and thier quality is good, even comes with the OEM embossing in the cover as well.
Find them here.

[smokydog]

any good ?

Hey guys, any of you know if these seatcovers are any good?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...05929&viewitem=

And BassCliff, your website is awesome and to answer your question my seat foam is excellent I just need a cover.

Thanks again, Jerry