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Stupid sprocket washer question

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    Stupid sprocket washer question

    Sorry about this, I've searched and found some conflicting information. I bought myself a new front sprocket washer, and it's the newer design with the flared edge. My understanding is that the convex/flatter side of the washer goes toward the sprocket, and the lip will be bent down by the sprocket nut. So, is the washer still supposed to be "folded"? I've read yes, and no.

    Thanks.

    #2
    bumpity bump...

    Comment


      #3
      Hi Mike, I'm not familiar with this new type of sprocket washer. I just reused the one that I took off my motor. It has the serrated grooves cut in the inner edge of the washer to locate on the transmission shaft so it rotates with the shaft and when the large nut is torqued to spec the washer is bent down against one of the flats of the large nut to prevent the nut from coming undone. In my case I bent down a fresh part of the washer that had not been used before for added security.

      Not being familiar with the new type of washer I will have a best guess.

      If the washer has the grooves cut in the inner edge to locate with the transmission shaft and the washer is soft enough to be able to bend down then that is what I would do. If the washer does not have the internal grooves cut in it or the dished washer is too hard (maybe spring steel or something similar) then I would put the washer on so that the outer dished circumference contacts the sprocket first and then tighten the nut to the specified torque and I would use strong Loctite to keep it there.

      Hope these rambling are of some use.

      P.S. A picture or two of the washer would be handy for those of us who have not seen this type of washer before.

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks. But of course, a picture:



        I reused mine too. Flattened it the best I could but I think some remaining crease flattened and it loosened a bit, as I found chasing down some noise (which was not it). Re-tightened but figured getting a new washer would be a good thing (tm).

        I'm pretty sure it's not supposed to fold. It's probably not even big enough to try, nor flexible enough. Seems it's supposed to be a "spring" washer. Another wrencher I asked today got me more confused though, since I was pretty sure the convex side should go in toward the sprocket with the convex side toward the nut. He said it goes the other way. Heck if I know.

        This part # first appeared in 88 and appears on various models all the way up through 2009 according to Alpha Sport's cross-reference. None of the drawings make it very clear which way it goes of course.

        Part# 09167-25019
        supersedes: 09167-25011

        Comment


          #5
          I do not think it should bend either.
          The dished side should probably be against the sprocket as that would cause tension I think.

          ll look for pics of one installed

          Comment


            #6
            it fits in the same orientation as your photo. that way once the nut is torqued up you have a lip to get a screwdriver under one part of the washer that corresponds to the flattest side of the nut to lift it then knock it over with a drift and use the curled lip to tap it over the top of the nut. proper secure now
            1978 GS1085.

            Just remember, an opinion without 3.14 is just an onion!

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              #7
              Mike have a look at the '89 GSX600F Katana Transmission page on Alpha Sports site. It has two of these washers it looks like and two dampers which sit inside before tightening everything up. Don't know if this is the same part as you have, but worth a look anyway.

              I took my original washer off and using a large ball pein hammer flattened it out on an anvil until it was completely flat before reusing it again.

              Sorry I cant be of more help.

              Comment


                #8
                I think Agemax is right. This is how I've done it; it makes bending the washer over onto the flats of the nut much easier.
                These are not intended to be reused (but of course they can); hence the lip.
                Kind of like cotter pins.
                How many of us REALLY replace a cotter pin every time we take it off?

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Smokinapankake View Post
                  Kind of like cotter pins.
                  How many of us REALLY replace a cotter pin every time we take it off?
                  Me. But I cheated, I bought the box'o'cotter pins from Harbor Freight. And I have used other things in their place before, including baling wire and metal clothes hangers, even nails in a pinch. No pun intended.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You are correct in your first post.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Found an R6 Yamaha site and they use one almost identical to yours.
                      They say it is to facilitate the fold or crip.
                      So its curly side out.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                        You are correct in your first post.
                        As in: flat (convex) side toward the sprocket, lip (concave) out for the nut to flatten, no fold and blue lock-tite?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Yeah, I have the 555-pack on the shelf. New one every time. It was filler for free shipping...

                          Originally posted by koolaid_kid View Post
                          Me. But I cheated, I bought the box'o'cotter pins from Harbor Freight.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            You bend the washer over a flat side of the nut. Or two if it makes you feel better.
                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment

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